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My 1g DSM story: 1990 Tsi awd clean street machine

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Fuel fittings to install my fuelab 818 filter finally got here.
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The same exact setup is sold by extreme psi as a bolt on kit. Unfortunately it was not that simple. the fuel filter sits about 2" too high and does not line up with the stock bracket holes at all. After messing around with it for a while this was the best I could get it to fit. The angle that the filter sits at is driving me crazy, but this will have to do until I find a better solution.
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New rear strut bar. Though I doubt it will do much for me. Cant hurt though!
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Oh, and I finally fixed my stupid tach issue..
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Not much for an update, but that's all ive got for now. Still driving it around pretty often and having fun with it.
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This is the exhaust that was on my car when I bought it. Its a srs kit (ebay) and the quality is surprisingly decent. However it is designed to bolt up to either a stock cat or a test pipe and I would prefer one seamless 3" straight pipe with as few flanges as possible. Also I am not a fan of the cannon for a muffler so that has to go too.
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After a quick clean up.
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I may chop 6" or so off the end but overall im very pleased with how this tig'd stainless 3" exhaust came out. Total cost: $70
 
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Had to file back the mounting bracket and housing to clear my fmic. I know its not the cleanest thing but this is more of a test fit than anything.
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So I've had a little oil leak from my oil pan for a while now and thought it was a good time to fix it while I waited for my new power transistor unit. It all went really smooth and the pan came off with ease... Well then the sh*t hit the fan.
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Sometimes I think this car hates me...
Anyway, time to check the rod and main caps.
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Rod caps looked ok, aside from the major grooves. But im sure that's from the amount of metal circulating through my oil system.
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Well... I think I found the one.. Yea I still have no idea what caused it to fail but it looks like its time for a rebuild. All the other main caps looked ok, aside from similar grooves to the rod caps.
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And the disassembly begins. Why do I feel like ive been here before?
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For some reason Juan always shows up whenever I need to pull an engine. Not complaining about free help though!
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The block and crank are going to the machine shop for a polish, hone, and hot tank. I mic'd the bores when I replaced the head so they should still be within spec.
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I've taken to bagging and tagging EVERYTHING, hopefully this makes the assembly go faster LOL
 
I got a little bored this weekend so I started polishing some stuff. I figure if my parts are shiny it will give me the motivation to put this thing back together in a timely matter LOL.
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Hopefully this eliminates my boost creep issue. Im pretty happy with it considering the mess I was given to start with.
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The parts are starting to pile up. Still waiting on the machine shop to give me my block back which is getting frustrating. They quoted me 5 days and its been well over 2 weeks.

Side note: I picked up those aem cam gears for $40 new in box!
 
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Ever wonder what happens to your turbo after main or rod bearing failure? Definitely gonna run an inline oil filter from here on out.
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New bearings on the right vs the old ones on the left.
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Turbo rebuilt and back together. Also got my rotating assembly back from being balanced.
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Time to start the rebuild process.
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I should also mention i was able to borrow this old school starrett mic. This thing is so badass.
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I went with .02, .025 and .015 for the ring gaps.
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Look how close the oil squirter is to the piston. I was worried but it clears with no issues.
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Going with an oem composite head gasket this time around.
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This is the 7 bolt head that came off my first dsm and that i ran on my stock block. I checked the deck surface and it came out flat. I also used a caliper to make sure it was getting proper oil clearance through the teardrop. Everything checked out fine so back on it goes. But first i took out all the oil galley plugs and the hla and flushed solvent through it until it came out the other end clean. Then i took it to the car wash to clean and pressure wash it. Came out pretty clean imo.
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New oem castle plug was a must.
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And then this happened... Im trying to get this plug out to tap into my oil pressure and it completely stripped out. I tried soaking it in penetrating oil and heating it with a torch with no luck. Insult to injury this ofh is practicaly new. Its always the little things that slow you down :banghead:
 
Left handed drill bit worked on mine before. It wasn't cheap either.
I ended up just dropping it off at the machine shop. That sucker is in there tight. He's gonna need to drill it out and run a tap through to clean up the threads. I just don't have the patience this week LOL

Also, when I went to torque my arp head studs, 2 of them felt very spongy at 90 ft/lbs. So I'm waiting on a new set of those as well...
 
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Soaked my 3g lifters in acetone for 24 hours then bled them to get the gunk out. Its the tedious stuff like this that I never really see in build threads. Sure, its not eye candy like shiny new go-fast parts but its a necessary step.
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And of course lifter shims for my delta 272's.
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100,000 miles of oil seepage and clutch dust...Yuck!
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Man I was seriously thinking the other day about you. "I wonder if he's Made any updates"

And here I am surprised !! That intake manifold just looks awesome with that Polished rail!

Did you add gloss to the intake?
 
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