I relocated my new trans cooler to where the old smic was. It cools much better now on both the coolant temp, and trans temp. My injector seals will be here Saturday.

donniekak said:

Do you have a stock converter? If so a restall, and some adjustable cam gears should get you launching a lot better, and keep your top end.

Click to expand...

I totally agree depending on the brand of 272 you can adjust them so as to have the best of both worlds in the rpm range

Yeah I plan on getting cam gears as soon as get the money. I can't wait to set them up properly. I've never degreed a cam before, but I guess it's time

Okay I got the injector seals in today, and did a blt. I didn't find any other leaks. One thing I did notice while I was doing my blt this time. I had my marks lined up and air was still coming through the valves. So I had to rotate the intake cam up a little to get the valves to close completely. Could this be where my cams aren't degreed, causing them to be open at tdc?

I hadn't drove the car in a few days, and didn't crank it before the blt. Would the lifters leaking down cause that?

You have to go like 6-7 teeth past tdc, to have all the valves closed all the way and at the same time.

Okay, thanks

I still couldnt build any boost while foot braking. I still have to mess with the tune. It acts like it's loading up pretty bad and always dies after i try to brake boost.

How high are you brining the rpms? Are you using a 2-step? You sure your wastegate is good? I think there's another thread talking about this.
It says not to stay on the brake to long or your engine will retard timing and loose power. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/automatic-launching-merged-5-9-launch-auto.68099/

It shouldnt retard since i have a 5 spd ecu right? Well if i get no boost at all it usually sits around 2k rpm. I did a blt to 18psi with no issues. After that the bl tester would blow out the coupler.There isnt any use in a 2 step when i cant build any boost at 2k rpms. I need to spend some time tuning but im definitely not great at tuning. I'm good at keeping everything safe up top and when boost comes in. This auto stuff is kind of getting to me though. I know if i put a little more money in a converter restall i would be alot happier with it. I really want to keep it together untill winter time though. I've seen people spooling bigger turbos than this with an auto and stock stall. I need to try to find a data log from someone with a similar setup so i know about where i need to be on the tune.

Wait your using a 5speed ecu in a auto?

Yes its a 5 speed ecu with eprom with an ecmlink chip.

Not sure why i put the 16g in my thread title but my turbo is a tdo5 20g. I wish i had someone around here that knows these cars better than i do when it comes to tuning.

The car is still running hotter than i like. Its around 190 before i drive it but gets up around 210 after getting on it and stays around that

Post a log and we can look it over. I thought I read the auto and 5sd ecus are diff and autos won't work properly with a 5sd ecu. Scroll down to steve's post. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-manual-trans-ecu-in-auto-dsm.380824/

Okay i just wonder if that's all it has to do with. Just when switching from park/neutral to drive. It doesn't seem like that big of an issue. I drove the car for 3 months last year as a daily and didn't have issues besides not being able to get it to come up on the converter. Ill get a log the next time i drive it. It will probably be tomorrow evening. Thanks

I think it could, from all I've read. So try this then since it's a 5sd ecu, bring it up on the 2-step and mash the gas peddle and let it bounce off a few times. If you can hold it should build some boost. That's kinda how I do it with mine but I slip the clutch alittle and my 2-step is at 5250rpm. Wish I could help you more from here bro!

On a max effort 14b car we had BC280's for years. We just could never run the times we expected. We swapped a set of stock cams in and went to the track the next week. I had to retune the car some but, we went from 13.7@97 to 13.4@100 with no boost changes, just fuel changes. This is at 5800' above sea level. Ultimately that was the key and we were able to get down to 13.0 with the 14b.

So in our case, stock cams made a huge difference. This was a manual car, so a little different.

The ecu is not holding you back. And with dsmlink you can do as you wish with the car.

Well I did some tuning on and, and it didn't really matter how much timing I added or fuel I took away it refused to build boost sitting still. I did get it to stall to 2500 after changing the fuel and timing though.

Well I decided I would put the 14b on untill tax time. I'll probaby buy a sinister converter then. Then throw the 20g back on. I'll definitely be investing in some cam gears and other parts that would benefit me.

Good choice man#

14b on and still no boost. I guess i have a major leak im missing