got the axles and hub kit in about a week ago. still planning on the first week of august to swap everything out but may end up pushing it back again due to a lack of a few parts.

still need to make a scatter shield, have the metal to do it with just need to find someone with a metal break to bend it with. as per NHRA regulations, the shield can be a two piece design, 1/4" thick minimum plate steel, does not have to cover the differential housing area on transverse mounted engine/transaxle. can not be cut and welded back together. must use a minimum of 3/8" diameter bolt and must be grade 8 (or 8.8 metric grade) or higher steel bolts and or studs.

got to send the fuel rail to be anodized still. that can be done in a week just need to gather the money for it.

injectors are on order, should see them in a week or so. set of 4 1650cc fic high-z injectors.

injectors are here. sent the fuel rail to be anodized today, should see it later this week. just registered for the colorado mile, first time the us mile racing is bring it to colorado ever. so this motor is going in the first week of august or bust. registration was expensive and wont get a refund if i don't make it there.

here's a picture of the injectors:

first day of engine swap done and over with. motor is out in 4 hours and some change in minutes. started to run wires through the firewall for gauges, piggyback system, boost controller and 10 gauge power wires for the upgraded fuel pump and methanol pump. changed the fuel pump out, but still need to modify the baffles in the fuel tank to help with inflow of fuel to the fuel pump; but got to siphon the tank first before i do that. wired up the fuel pump relay for the heavier gauge wire. tomorrow i'll finish up the wiring, start solidering up some loose wire ends. then start re-plumbing the fuel lines. after that it will be time to take the front bumper off and get the intercooler mounted. if all goes well hopefully by tuseday the engine will be mated with the transmission and dropped in and the first key start will happen tuesday evening or wednesday morning-ish. will post some pictures soon.

day two is over. today is day three of the swap. i can start to see the light at the end of the tunnel. day to recap; finished running wires for gauges and the piggy back system; except for one gauge and voltage clamp for the map sensor. soldiered the wires for the piggy back system into the factory computer; only snag I hit with the vehicle wiring diagram is that it doesn't tell me which wire triggers cylinder 1 &4 for channel 1 of the piggy back system and for cylinder 2&3 for channel 2. these wires are very critical they get wired up correctly. or damage to the factory computer and or the piggy back may occur. so gotta go into work and get more information to wire them correctly. removed the front bumper to mocked up the intercooler to cut the crash bumper to get it to fit and will have to add a metal strip to help strengthen it to prevent sagging. marked locations for the sensor bungs that needed to be welded onto the intercooler piping and also for the blow off valve flange. finished wiring up the fuel pump, minus the circuit breaker from battery power.

today's plan: finish up any wiring loose ends for the wires that i ran. mostly gauges in the interior need to be finished. take intercooler pipes to a welding shop for welding. start plumbing the fuel system; plumb the methanol injection line. press the hubs out of the front wheel bearing assemblies and then press in the new hubs and studs. assemble the engine to the transmission. make the scatter shield. hopefully by the afternoon the engine will be in the car and the wiring harness connected.

day three in the books and over. not much progress today, spent time trying to find a welder to tig weld some intercooler pipes. that ate up a lot of time today. i only managed to finish wiring the piggy back system and tucking away the wires for that loom. tried to press the old hubs out of the bearings and the bearings came apart so have new bearings and mounting flanges on overnight order for tomorrow, then i will try again. spent the rest of the evening cleaning up an old wiring loom that i made a few years back to help make things cleaner. lastly started to install the new gauges and run the sensing wires for them under the dash. tomorrow will be finish gauges and start plumbing the fuel lines for sure. didnt get everything done like i wanted today. with the exhaust shop not able to get me in in two days i will go next week and have it done. so now i wont be so pressed for time. i will have a few more days to get things done but will not be able to make a get together this weekend with the car but may end up going anyways to chill out. hopefully i can get the intercooler mounted tomorrow as well and pick up the intercooler pipes im having welded up on thursday night. found someone to do that for me since the local welding shop here in longmont told me two days if i left it yesterday and then showed up and got told a week and a half out. so i went to a local guy in loveland. that about sums up today. got to get pictures and videos edited for youtube now.

photos from the last three days:















ran the wires for the upgraded fuel pump wire kit (put together by myself) and the methanol injection pump power wire in this cubby slot on the passenger side:



ran wires through the firewall for the piggy back system, gauges and some miscellaneous things and made clean wiring lums. had to cut a new hole in the firewall to accommodate for some wires, as the original spot ran out of room. the new hole is in the center of the fire wall, just left of the shifter cables.















<a href="http://s864.photobucket.com/user/b-...mance engine build pictures/DSCN0973.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/...erformance engine build pictures/DSCN0973.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCN0973.jpg"/></a>

all the wires on the passenger floor from running them through the firewall:



good morning beautiful:



Intercooler mock up:



intercooler pipings mocked up for bungs and blow off valve flange to go to the welding shop:



the engine as it sits with the intake on finally:



injectors and fuel rail installed in the manifold:

day four in the books. finally finished all the major wiring for everything that needed to be wired, except a few loose ends for a relay pressure switch and a solenoid. got all the gauges wired up and installed on the dash. got the boost controller all wired up and installed. even got the piggy back system installed and all the goodies for it installed. wide band option and pressure sensor option, as well as a rare (hard to find/get) part, the remote switch system for activating relays/solenoids like nitrios or for starting and stopping data logging. laid under the dash wiring things up for about 4 to 6 hours.... ill tell you that was a lot of fun and my back appriciated it... not really. tomorrow its on to plumbing the fuel lines finally. put the new wheel hubs back on the car will be the first thing after i clean up my work area a bit so i can find a few tools ive been looking for. after all the plumbing, it will finally be engine time. get the engine off the stand, put the rear main seal in it; and mate the transmission to the engine after installing the clutch. i know i have some arp flywheel bolts laying around here some where. they were meant for a dodge truck, but in this case they work and fit exactly. then got to go pick up intercooler pipes from the welder. hopefully the engine will be in thursday evening or friday morning ish. still have to do the intercooler and also mount a pusher style fan on the driver side of the condenser. that about sums it all up for now. will have more pictures soon.

day five in the books for the swap. installed the new wheel bearings and hubs this morning. found out the rotors wont work so i have to get evo 8 rotors to get them to fit correctly. made a few brackets to hold the hard fuel line under the vehicle and on the firewall. rand the hard line next to the factory lines and up in between the sub-frame and the body in a nice location. was a bit tight but it worked well. used a pipe bender i had gotten a few days got to bend the hard line as needed. some spots i had to do by hand, carefully though, to get it to fit right due to the small amount of space. wouldn't of been able to get the tube bender in there. I just hope there is no cracks or leaks after making that hard line fit properly, that's my only fear for the fuel system. made stainless steel braided hose lines for really tight bends and to connect parts together. made one from the fuel pump outlet to the fuel filter, one for the fuel filter to the hard line, and then one for the hard line to the fuel rail. the fuel rail line i will have to measure to get the right length of hose before i put the fitting on it, just so i don't make it too long or too short. same thing with the fuel rail to fuel pressure regulator and regulator to the return hard line. the return hard line im using is the original factory fuel feed line. i had -6an tube sleeve and nut, only to find out the tube is actually 5/16" and not 3/8" o.d. line. so i had to over night an order of -5an sleeve and nut to fix my mistake and an -5 to -6an reducer to fit everything else i have or would have to by new hose and fittings. for the brackets, i made sure to paint them to help prevent them from rusting. lastly, i went and picked up the intercooler piping that needed bungs and the b.o.v. flange welded on to them. the welds are really good. as of now that's all i got done. at this pace, i may end up not installing a few things right away as time is getting really short. the goal now is to have it running friday evening/night or defiantly saturday for sure... no exceptions. so a few late nights are going to start happening. will have more pics up soon.

new wheel bearings and hubs for the upgraded axles:





fuel line install for -8an fuel hose and hard line:











all the wiring is finally finished minus a few ends but that will get done after the engine is in.

SHE LIVES AGAIN!!!. finally found out why it wouldn't start.... well i bypassed the problem and she runs... well really rich but better than being super lean and that would not be a good thing. now the tuning and tweaking begins. one week to figure out my problem. turns out i had no spark but plenty of fuel. will have a video soon.

Engine bay pics too!!

here's a quick picture of the engine bay so far. still workin with the other pictures and video editing. been busy with work and trying to finish this project section.

BlackKnight2013 updated BlackKnight2013's Talon N/T

Changes to mod lists as the new engine setup is finally in. ran into a failure and have to fix some bent valves. will do a video on cylinder head R&R. as well as switching a few parts out that i feel aren't working like i thought they should have.

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Think you need to watch some videos on head r&r not be making one . Also how to time a engine and break it in maybe. Slow down guy you really want to waste and destroy everything dang. Stop cutting corners and do things the right way, or find someone who knows this stuff. Do you realize that the Red Demon fastest 4g63 at the moment is running a 72mm turbo . That right there says your way over your head! That thing is way to big for a 420a and will be so laggy you won't even have a power band guy. Hey but what do I know . Won't say anything else and not trying to be a dick but saw this coming sorry! Hope it's not to bad and fixable. If you need help with things ask guy that's why we are all here! Really good old saying you should learn, gotta crawl before you can walk!

cylinder head is off finally. had to deal with a torn disc in my back which laid me up for a while. which prevented me from doing the cylinder head removal. all the exhaust valves are bent and a few intake valves are bent as well. pistons are still in good shape. no holes in pistons, only a few dings but expected to survive. cut the oil filter open, no large pieces of shrapnel in it. just gray metallic coloring; so bearings are wearing in nicely. cylinder walls are showing minor scoring from the piston side skirts, but expected to be normal as long as it doesn't get deeper. the scoring doesn't catch my finger nail as of now so i am not worried about it. the head gasket did seal thankfully; i was worried after i had installed the head initially that it didn't seal correclty. one rocker arm fell off when the valves bent and scored the exhaust camshaft lobe slightly, will be able to clean it up and reuse it since it's a roller cam and not a flat tapped camshaft i can get away with it.

here's some photos:

the scoring on the cam lobe



the bent valves









timing sprocket damage and timing half moon key shearing









you can see how the key sheared off and the small amount of damage it did to the snout of the crankshaft.

i have all the parts that i need to fix it here and parts that i need to make a few small changes. i've decided to switch from solid lifters over to the updated hydraulic lifters for better streetability instead of having to readjust the solid lifters every so often. then use the solid lifters in a race car build.

overall, the only major damaged components are the valves, crankshaft sprocket half moon key and timing sprocket on the crank. the timing belt is missing a small section on the back of the belt so i got a new timing belt to be safe.

putting a cylinder head removal video together and should have it out soon. i have a video of the car running and idling and should have that out with the cylinder head video.

i did get the correct axle hub kit for the car about three weeks to four weeks ago finally. i will be installing that when the engine is back together. as well as finishing the methanol injection system, oil cooler install and fixing the intercooler piping. got a new fuel cut defender (fcd) since the syntech labs one is a POS. will be wiring that in. had a cel light for injector circuits, that got taken care of by a resister pack that i knew i would need. soldiering that in took care of the codes and help the engine run better. when i started to drive the car the transmission didn't like to go into first gear even though the clutch hydraulics were fully bleed. come to find out i had to push it into first gear a little harder than normal and then it would shift just fine once moving. guess it had to do with the synchros having some teeth removed for higher rpm shifting qualities. overall, that's all i have for an update on the car. still currently sitting in the garage on jackstand.

small video of the car when it was running before the valves got bent.

I've never seen the snout key fail before, what a tragedy! Glad you are not giving up. Question for you too - what FCD did you end up going with? The symtech one didn't adjust the voltage for me at all, I sent it back to them and they haven't replied back for over a couple months. I'm looking for alternatives.

ez@2gnt said:

I've never seen the snout key fail before, what a tragedy! Glad you are not giving up. Question for you too - what FCD did you end up going with? The symtech one didn't adjust the voltage for me at all, I sent it back to them and they haven't replied back for over a couple months. I'm looking for alternatives.

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it does suck but im still determined just getting things done real slow right now. symtech labs dont ever answer their phones or anything... i ended up calling paypal and they got them to cough up. i ended up getting a turbosmart fcd2. i can set when it clamps and unclamps so i can have fuel cut still.

car will be running in 4 to 5 days and getting ready for a car show on saturday april 2. will be broadcasting engine starting live on youtube or skype, ask for youtube name or skype name. if you would like to watch in person, please get into contact with me for info.

Amazing build, man!

TallestHERETIC said:

Amazing build, man!

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thanks, glad you like it.

as an update, the car does run but have a massive fuel leak to fix and couldn't get parts fast enough to fix it for a show that i was suppose to be at today. so once again for the third time i get a bug that can't be fixed easily right away... it's always something... but no worries i will have parts soon then i can really start getting into finishing the tune and drive it finally. will have some pictures soon and maybe a video.