Not an easy way.

only way is to loosen the tensioner pulley. but zip tie or clip the belt on the cam thats in time so it doesnt jump

It's fairly easy if you have the proper tools and understand the process. I've swapped out numerous sets of cams without removing the timing belt. Basically, you'll be using the same procedure, but will only remove the exhaust cam gear.

RRE outlines the procedure nicely. Follow it step by step, and you'll be fine. Deviate from it or screw it up, and you'll have bent valves.

Basically, you'll want do the procedure up until it outlines removing the camshafts. Rather than doing that, just remove the exhaust cam cog, position it correctly, and reassemble. Triple check your timing marks, and take your time.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/caminstructions.htm

GST with PSI said:

It's fairly easy if you have the proper tools and understand the process. I've swapped out numerous sets of cams without removing the timing belt. Basically, you'll be using the same procedure, but will only remove the exhaust cam gear.

RRE outlines the procedure nicely. Follow it step by step, and you'll be fine. Deviate from it or screw it up, and you'll have bent valves.

Basically, you'll want do the procedure up until it outlines removing the camshafts. Rather than doing that, just remove the exhaust cam cog, position it correctly, and reassemble. Triple check your timing marks, and take your time.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/caminstructions.htm

Click to expand...

He needs to re-time the engine if he's a tooth off.
(From your link)
"By using a straight edge, make sure the marks are dead center through the center line of the cam bolts. Do not trust your eyes to be sure that the marks line up through the center of the bolts, use a straight edge. If this does not all line up, stop here. It will explain the rough idle and low vacuum you had and give you a good reason not to have that same guy do your timing belt again. You will need to completely re-do your timing belt set up and tension. DO NOT use these instructions."

Regardless of what method you read or choose the tension must always be correct when the job is finished. I prefer to just remove covers if I'm doing anything belt related. Shortcuts have always bit me in the ass. Whole complete tbelt job is only a few hours.

donniekak said:

He needs to re-time the engine if he's a tooth off.
(From your link)
"By using a straight edge, make sure the marks are dead center through the center line of the cam bolts. Do not trust your eyes to be sure that the marks line up through the center of the bolts, use a straight edge. If this does not all line up, stop here. It will explain the rough idle and low vacuum you had and give you a good reason not to have that same guy do your timing belt again. You will need to completely re-do your timing belt set up and tension. DO NOT use these instructions."

Click to expand...

I'm assuming by his post, the OP's other marks line up, his belt was tensioned properly and ONLY his exhaust cam is a single tooth off like he says. If that's the case, line up all the other marks, take the tension off the belt, remove the exhaust cog and re-time it. Do all of the above by using the instruction contained within the RRE link. Obviously you'll eliminate any steps not needed, e.g. most of the steps concerning removing the actual camshaft itself.

The quote you referenced is eluding to a botched timing belt job being the cause of one or multiple marks not lining up. If the OP didn't tension his belt properly, or the belt was put on all out of whack (more than just the single tooth he mentioned), he will need to re-time the engine completely. If everything else was done properly, and just the exhaust cam was put in time 1 tooth off, the RRE method will work fine.

I'll absolutely agree with the general consensus here; completely re-timing the motor would be the safest option. But, the OP asked if it could be done otherwise, and it can. He'll just be assuming a lot of risk, especially not being able to verify the tensioner is set properly.

The rre method doesn't involve taking the belt off the cams. You cannot move the cam gear 1 tooth in relation to everything else without taking off the belt. A timing job with the exhaust cam 1 tooth off is botched, and exactly what rre describes.

Exactly how do you change the cam being a tooth off with the belt zip tied to the gear anyway?

No, it doesn't outline removing the gears from the belt, but it's easily done. The procedure obviously doesn't spell out what exactly needs to be done here, but my point was the overall method still can apply.

With the tension off the belt, you can do whatever the hell you want with the gears. The zip ties just make it easy to manipulate the gears without losing your place on the belt while swapping the cams out.

When you take the cam gear off the belt (on either side), use your hand, or some other means of tension to keep the belt taut enough to prevent it from losing its place on the lower gear set. This has to be done whether the gear is zip tied to the belt or not, which is why the gear being on or off the belt doesn't matter. I used this exact method to swap in my last set of adjustable cam gears. It's really pretty easy, IMO.

If I need to post up a step by step procedure, I can do so.

Im sorry, im not a fan. It just isnt that hard to take the covers off. I do the entire job in two hours. Possible yes, as that was the OPS question. As his cam is a tooth off...was it a botched job? ( INEXCUSABLE IMO) or botched tension? How would the op know without looking?