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....and the Brochure said...

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misfit77

Proven Member
62
3
Jun 6, 2015
vail, Arizona
"Stainless Steel exhaust" My ass! My garage floor looks like a red desert.
 
Its going to the 409 grade so it will rust, its cheaper then 304 and alot cheaper then 316/321 they use it because they can get away with calling it SS but infact it is a bad grade of it. If it was never heated up it would never rust! The heat is what caused it to rust as the moisture gets trapped and then forms the surface rust! Inside will be worse aswell.

409 system can last 5-9 years give or take and a 304 system can be from 10-30 years give or take. 304 can still rust as its not fully pure like 316 is and 316 is the best ss to use every where really but at a high cost,

What brochure was this your talking of?
 
I though it was on the sales brochure that the PO gave me. Can't seem to find it.
She also gave me the window sticker. Under "Durabiltiy/Relaibity" options it is listed as Stainless Steel Exhaust with Tips - No Charge.

The car is a Wisconsin car. Moved to AZ like 14 years ago. Garage kept.

I will be spending the next few months cleaning and doing Chassis Saver.
Crap looking over the literature I have a 100K mile corrosion warranty, too bad its only 7year/100k mile.
 
Its going to the 409 grade so it will rust, its cheaper then 304 and alot cheaper then 316/321 they use it because they can get away with calling it SS but infact it is a bad grade of it. If it was never heated up it would never rust! The heat is what caused it to rust as the moisture gets trapped and then forms the surface rust! Inside will be worse aswell.

409 system can last 5-9 years give or take and a 304 system can be from 10-30 years give or take. 304 can still rust as its not fully pure like 316 is and 316 is the best ss to use every where really but at a high cost,

What brochure was this your talking of?
How about 321 for exhausts and manifolds :)
 
How about 321 for exhausts and manifolds :)
321 is not best for systems but manifolds yes as they deal with rapid temps really well, but they are more prone to cracking at the welds more, 316 is best all around but 321 holds the heat better then the rest, after 321 the best option is inconel!
 
Thats why you just have to make sure your welds are good and follow post heat processes if applicable.
It dont always work like as intended! Even with purging it will still go brittle! 99% of the time its next to the weld but thats because its had heated and there for work hardened so is weaker in general because its more brittle. If i was to make a manifold for my turbo i most likely would use 321 myself for its high heat ratings but i would not expect it to last more then a few years or less in racing. I chatted to a chap who had all 3 types on his evo 9 and not 1 lasted for his car so paid 3600 for an inconel one to be made was 0.80mm weighed nothing but had it for 4+ years and i am assuming still has it. He had money as his system was titanium so no webs in his wallet LOL.

I prefer myself 316 overall for everything. Including maching/drilling/welding. Its a nicer grade to work with all around. My system now would have been 3!6 had they not ran out of stock when i had to build mine as my oem one had holes etc
 
Somethings wrong with that dudes setup or the people who made his manifolds to have that much fail on one car.............. I expect my 304 manifold to outlast the car. Even if it rusts at the 309 welds to the mild flanges :)
 
Any Chemistry majors here?

Here is something weird. I used Evap-o-rust to clean surface rust. Then scrubbed with dish soap and water. Air dried then wiped with denatured alcohol. Coated with Ace Rust Stop BBQ High Temp paint.

Within 8 hours there was a bunch of white powdery marks. Coincidentally on the rusty spots. Like a moron I tasted one. Kind of salty.

Any clue?

Fresh Paint
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After 8 hours or so

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Sorry, forgot to mention I wire wheeled the crusty spots. Most of the muffler was pretty clean as opposed to the pipe. After removing the paint the muffler was almost mirror like.

I have painted more rusty things than I can count. This is a first. Rustoleum and similar products are designed to paint over rust.

Also, notice the very rusty pipe did not get any of the salty substance even though went through the same process.
 
Tasted salty, eh? LOL You are brave.
Ya...a millisecond after I did it, I realized what an iditot I am.
Similar to the reaction when you realize you locked the keys in your car.
 
how long was the evaporust originally on? I usually leave it on over night. I sand/wire wheel the rust as far back as possible, then I use evaporust or similar. Then I let it sit over night. Then I wire wheel the evapo rust stuff off. then use acetone. Soapy water is not good enough imo.
 
how long was the evaporust originally on? I usually leave it on over night. I sand/wire wheel the rust as far back as possible, then I use evaporust or similar. Then I let it sit over night. Then I wire wheel the evapo rust stuff off. then use acetone. Soapy water is not good enough imo.

I wire wheeled first. I did not have the means to soak the son of a gun. So basically I brushed the exterior and other rusty exhaust parts for a couple of hours. Then went to bed. The entire next 20 hours or so the Evapo Rust dried up and got sticky. I am pretty sure that Evap-o-rust is an acid so I thoroughly rinsed it.

Trying to brush up my stoichiometric skills and figure what kind of oxide that crap is. It looks, tastes and feels like aluminum oxide, but cant figure where the aluminum came from. Surely not from the "stainless" wire wheel.

Oh well going to repaint it tonight and hope for the best.
 
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