What about the cam sensor 1 and 4 are the only ones that fire when it goes bad.

So I read your post and you said 1 and 4 only spark when a cam sensor is bad well km getting spark on 2 and 3 but it drops 1 and 4. Well I just read that again and realized that I have my plug wires swapped because I'm running a 95 ecu and a 97 cam sensor so this whole time I should have been tracking a 2 and 3 spark drop!?

I don't see anything in there about you checking/swapping the CPS (crank position sensor)...

How are you testing your wiring - resistance? voltage? both?

Resistance, I thought the cps controls fuel injectors?

It's one or the other I forgot but doesn't hurt to check it.

Bad power transistor can cause loss of spark on 2 cylinders.

I've swapped the power transistor 3 times so far.. I'll order a new crank sensor and give that a shot..

Why are you ordering new stuff? Test it, it costs nothing but 5 min of your time and replace it if it's bad.

Check voltage from the ECU going to the sensors too. Have you bothered to read the "no start" tech article?

I'd swap the wires on the coils and make sure the spark goes to the other cylinders(confirming the coils working) then check the and confirm the connection between the coil trigger wires and ecu , crank sensor shouldn't affect the spark unless your timing was off 6 bolts don't have a crank sensor and you can run cam sensor only on a 7 bolt if you wished to..

Gofer yes I have read and read and read as I do each time I have an issue with this car. I have tested each wire running from the ecu to the ptu to the coil i checked the wires that run by the battery i have looked for corrosion and cleaned each plug. I have swapped the cam sensor, the ptu, and coil packs each with three sets i have cut open the heat shield covering the wires to visually see any cuts or issues..I have run a blow dryer on each of those units and the wires then tested them while hot to see if it was the heat. My car will run anywhere from 14-30 min of various driving before it drops spark to my cyl 1 and 4 but due to my cas being 97 and my ecu being 95 I have the wires swapped, so technically im losing spark to what should be 2 and 3. I was told by a dsm guy that I can install a 1g cam sensor and it would eliminate the crank sensor and remove that as an issue in this equation.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-diagnose-a-no-start.217951/#post-152649702

There are testing procedures for everything you've swapped 3x, including voltage checks on the connector. Follow the link. ^

I don't know about you but I have as the identical issue and I swapped out the pos coil PACk and nothing as soon as I swapped ecu out cause of burnt cap problem was solved immediately

I think u should run a compression test...or leak down test...before u go spending any more money...

Check the last thing the ecu.

Since you asked: Spark gets generated on a 2g (1g is similiar) using the following:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/st...ont-start-merged.437574/page-2#post-151265626

Ok so i read the information and started the testing on the crank sensor but it was very odd and inconsistant when i had the car running. I pulled the timing cover to see if i could find anything physically making the sensor act funny and i apparently have timing belt shavings all over the inside of my cover and some coating the crank sensor. upon visual inspection it seems that the upper left side of the cover by the cam gears was bent inward and grooved the belt shaved it down but really coated everything under the covers. So now that im ordering a new belt and have to clean everything down there is there any good way to clean the crank sensor i am very hopefull that i finally found my issue..

You test it with the key in In the ON position, not with the car started. Still test it, that's a good find but could be completely unrelated.

Clean it with isopropyl alcohol.

The engine must be running or at least cranking to test the crank sensor since it only outputs a pulse with engine rotating [pulse average can be read by a multimeter - blue/white wire and it's cranking voltage is 0.4-4.0V (while idling it's 1.5-2.5V)].

Gary, thanks for clarifying but I guess I should have worded that differently. Just frustrated...

Shifty, you're testing the sensor for operation without testing that it's even getting the voltage required to function correctly. Test the signal voltage first coming from the ECU with the key to ON, just like the "How to Diagnose A No Start" write-up that I linked you to explains word for word. Since it seems you're having trouble finding the info in there, here's the troubleshooting steps...

gofer said:

CAS Testing:

1. Disconnect the sensor and measure on the engine harness side with the key in the "ON" position.
   • BLK (Pin 1) - Ground (0 ohms to ground)
   • BLU/RED (Pin 2) - 4.8v to 5.2v
   • RED (Pin 3) - 12v
2. If everything checks good with a multimeter plug the CAS connector back in and check voltages with the engine cranking.
   • BLU/RED (Pin 2) - 0.4v to 3.0v (If your reading 0v while cranking then the CAS is dead)

CPS Testing:

1. Disconnect the sensor and measure on the engine harness side with the key in the "ON" position.
   • BLK (Pin 1) - Ground (0 ohms to ground)
   • BLU/WHT (Pin 2) - 4.8v to 5.2v
   • RED (Pin 3) - 12v
2. If everything checks good with a multimeter plug the CAS connector back in and check voltages with the engine cranking.
   • BLU/WHT (Pin 2) - 0.4v to 4.0v (If your reading 0v while cranking then the CPS is dead)

To get to test the signal with the engine cranking your going to have to stab through the insulation on the wire, use really sharp multimeter leads or stab a needle into it and then touch the meter lead on the needle.

Click to expand...

Ok so I limped the car to my dad's house pulled up the testing process on here For the ground on the cas and cps we were getting 10.0 at the 200 setting when I got it to do its only running on 2 cylinders thing there was no power going to the ptu for cylinders 2&3 checked it multi meter. Also I could pull the plug off the cas and it had no effect but if I pulled it from the cps it died..

After all the testing and inconclusive results and swapping each sensor I bought a black 1g cas and pigtail set the timing and have been running strong ever since. I don't know why since I replaced the other sensors anyway but at least its fixed thank everyone for the help.

So I thought I had this figured out but the car started doing it again today was my first time in a month driving the car (been gone on fire assignments) it drove fine for about 15 miles then while pulling up a decent incline I decided to boost gave it about 3/4 throttle and it dropped 2 &3 I pulled over and pulled the plug wires to verify and yes no spark. I parked it got in it a hour later and went for a drive went through all gears boosting through 3 4 and 5 after letting it warm up for 15min and I couldn't get it to drop spark. Is there something in the ecu that might pull spark from 2and 3 for any reason. I am truly lost but still struggling to figure it out. To recap i have swapped ecu,ptu,ptu clip, converted to 1g cas , changed coils, plugs, wires, injector resistor pack and installed re hood vent to help the engine compartment cool. I have tried checking all wires UN able to find any issues. At this point I would take it to a shop but I don't know any shops in my area that would have any idea of what to do. Any more advice would be greatly appreciated.

Definitely a heat failure with something. Maybe you just got unlucky and now have another heat related failure with the present ECU, CAS, PTU, or coil. The only thing in the ECU that would pull spark from 2 and 3 would be drivers. I would wait for another failure (or try forcing one with a hair driver) and then test voltages on the different components (while it's failing) to figure out which component (or wire between components) is the culpret. [Also check all the component connector pins to make sure they are locked in place and not bent, dirty, or corroded]. Since the 1g CAS is the last thing that made it work, start heat testing with that. I assume you are using a harness to provide both CAS and CPS signals (to their harness connectors) from the 1g CAS. Have a plan in advance to know exactly what wires to check voltage on when it happens (http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/st...ont-start-merged.437574/page-2#post-151265626). You may also need an assistant to crank it while measuring voltages.

Have you checked your grounds from the engine to the chassis/battery, and from the ECU to chassis? Heat can sometimes cause an iffy ground to drop continuity.