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New to DSM's, but I picked one up because of the deal

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Dopefish

Probationary Member
25
4
Jul 24, 2015
Alvin, Texas
Hi, I'm David. Here's a story.

I work at a Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge dealership as a service advisor. I received a call from a customer one day stating that he had a 92 Eagle Talon that kept throwing belts and he wanted to know if we'd work on one. I told him we would and to have it brought in. One of the technicians here diagnosed it as needing a crankshaft because of some key missing off of the end that holds stuff in place. I don't really know anything about DSM's so I couldn't really validate any of that information. Regardless, I informed the customer of the cost of repairs. The customer said it would be costing him more money to keep the car running and it's not worth it. He decided to pick the car up and just have it scrapped. After hearing that I told him that I'd waive the diagnosis fee and offered him $500 for it. He agreed to sell it.

It's a 1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 2.0l DOHC Turbo with a 5-speed. It only has 107k miles on it. Other than the driver's seat being worn the interior is easily a 9/10. No stains anywhere. Headliner is perfect. Carpet is perfect. Floor mats are perfect. There's no body damage at all. No rust. The paint is faded/cracked in a some places though. The car is 100% stock. The DSM plate in the middle is void of any information.

I've never had a DSM before so I don't really know a single thing about them. It's build-date is March 24, 1992. It's a 7-bolt 4G63. It may or may not need a crankshaft, but it also might just need a pulley bolt. All I know is I can reach down there and wiggle the crankshaft pulley around and it's not attached.

My plans for this car right now are to get it up and running and use it as a daily driver so I can work on my other car. After my other car is fixed and working right again then I'll work on turning this DSM into something more; it will either be track or offroad.

I don't really have any pictures yet but those will be coming soon. The only pictures I took so far are a blank DSM plate and where the pulley rests against the body.

My other car is a 1997 Subaru STI-swapped wagon (click more under the description for full mod list).
 

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I took a bunch of pictures as it sits. I still haven't taken it from the dealership yet.

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One of the technicians here diagnosed it as needing a crankshaft because of some key missing off of the end that holds stuff in place
Hey dopefish, this sounds a little fishy. I really hope this wasn't a way to con a guy out of a good low mileage car. I am not saying that is the case but either way a running low mileage 92 TSI for $500 bucks?? Good deal for you then, feel bad for the PO.
 
There is some pin or key that has sheared off. I was told it's a locator pin for TDC but I'm not sure myself. It's apparently part of the crank itself and you basically need to replace it to get that pin back. Like I said this is what the tech diagnosed and I'm not familiar enough with these engines to know. I'm prepared to pull the engine and replace the crankshaft if needed. It's the best way for me to learn.
 
Worst case you might need to replace the crankshaft, or maybe get a machine shop to fix the damaged key, it could be something more simple [I doubt It], but you will have to tear into to know for sure, do you happen to have any pictures of the damage, that would help in diagnosing the issue.
 
No worries man.if he decided to scrap it on his own initiative to scrap it ,well then his loss same issue here buddy got in over his head and the car sat for years.have your tech check the snout for pulled/ deformed threads and for cracks in the keyway.
 
Nice find but I doubt that the key sheared if it's running because the timing would be off . My money is on the balancer separating
 
So I got it up and running. It did turn out to be a separated harmonic balanced. I picked up a Fluidampr and that was that.

Aside from that I've done some maintenance with more to come.

Complete:
New battery
New wiper blades all the way around
New BISS and O-ring (still need cap)
Purolator L14610 oil filter
Rotella T 15w40 oil
New NGK spark plugs
New NGK spark plug wires
New Felpro valve cover gasket

Plans:
A/C doesn't cool which means there's a leak somewhere. Needs charged. R12 yay.
Replace differential fluids
Replace transfer case fluid
Replace transmission fluid
Replace fuel filter
Fluid and replace coolant
Fluid and replace brake fluid
Fuel treatment to clean up old gasoline in tank
Fuel injector cleaner
Throttle body decarb
New tires
New hoses and belts everywhere
New air filter
And whatever other maintenance might be needed
Inspect and replace brake rotors and pads
Graphite the door hinges
Repaint and/or touch up areas of paint
Full detail inside and out

So far it runs and drives great. Shifts are solid and great. Clutch feels great. I just want to get all of the maintenance out of the way and keep it as a daily.

I'm still new to this car so I've got a bunch of research to do.
 
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Sounds like you got a great deal! Keep it up, running, and full of oil. Also I recommend a new timing belt as they wear with age and mileage so you never know how good it really is.
 
Here's a couple of pictures from when I replaced the valve cover gasket. The head actually looked in pretty good condition.

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I still need to figure out if I have a 6-bolt or 7-bolt engine.

I've pulled up the TSB for it but it contradicts itself.

My talon has a build date of March 24, 1992.

The TSB says "A number of changes were made to the 2.0L engine used in the subject models in May 1992."
This is two months later than the build date on mine.

However, in that same TSB, it says "The Vehicles built after VIN xxxxxxxxNE005602 have these changes incorporated."
My VIN ends in NE109554.

I just need to get my vehicle back on the lift at work and verify for myself.
 
Easiest way to tell is by looking at the oil pan right underneath the crank pulley. If the pan is dented in, it's a 7 bolt, if its a hump a 6 bolt. Another way is by looking at the oil pan flange there, hump= 7 bolt/ flat=6 bolt.
 
I looked at the oil pan right below the crank pulley and it does extend outward... so it's a 6-bolt then.

Meanwhile, on one of my other cars:
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Easiest way to tell is by looking at the oil pan right underneath the crank pulley. If the pan is dented in, it's a 7 bolt, if its a hump a 6 bolt. Another way is by looking at the oil pan flange there, hump= 7 bolt/ flat=6 bolt.

I was basing it off of what you said right underneath the crank pulley.


Anyway, after driving it the last few weeks I've come up with a list of things that need address.
  • After filling up a full tank of gas at the gas station, the fuel gauge only reads as high as 7/8 full. It never goes all of the way to full. The gas tank will fill up all of the way though.
  • After filling up a full tank of gas, parking it, and doing a warm start on it after 30-40 minutes it can be almost impossible to get started. It will crank, attempt to start, but then die. Sometimes you can get it started but it will die almost immediately. If I hold the gas pedal all of the way to the floor and crank it it will start and stay running, but it will idle and run super rough for a few minutes. Giving it a bunch of gas or driving it after starting it this way it will clear up quicker.
  • Warm starts in general can cause rough idle. If I just drive home from work, park, come back out 15 minutes later and start it up, it will start up but idle rough until I give it gas or drive it. I'm thinking possibly a stuck injector. (On cold starts the car always starts and idles fine)
  • Clutch, brake, and gas pedals all squeak.
  • I've applied graphite to the door hinges but the driver's side door hinge still squeaks and groans like mad. The door is aligned properly and not sagging. I may just need new hinges.
  • Both windows don't go up easily. I think the window is partially off track. If you lower the window down the window rotates towards the front of the car and goes down just fine. When you put the window up the window rotates towards the back of the car and gets caught up and hangs in spots. I usually have to use my hand and help guide it up straight.
  • Small oil leak/seepage from oil filter housing.
  • I can adjust the driver's side mirror from the controls but not the passenger side.
  • Windshield/Rear window nozzles work fine but feel way out of adjustment. The front washers often shoot over the windshield and no fluid ever makes it to the lower half of the windshield. The rear washer nozzle misses the rear window completely and basically washes the spoiler.

I'm sure there's more but this is all I can think of for right now.
 
I bought mine because of a crazy deal I have sense bought and sold it 3 times and can say it will never leave me again!
 
Replaced the air filter today and the fuel pressure solenoid with a brand new one. I picked up a Gates timing belt kit with water pump as well as an oil filter housing gasket.

I lost one of the clamps that hold the air filter box together. I can't seem to find a replacement at any auto parts store. :/
 
Replaced the air filter today and the fuel pressure solenoid with a brand new one. I picked up a Gates timing belt kit with water pump as well as an oil filter housing gasket.

I lost one of the clamps that hold the air filter box together. I can't seem to find a replacement at any auto parts store. :/
Contact steve at miller import parts hes stangmurdera on here
 
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