Took my Talon back to the track a couple of weeks ago. I just finished installing a staging brake ( thanks again Nick )!
WOW, that thing is awesome!! My first time ever using it, and I was able to do a new best 60' of 1.42. The brake allows me to pre-load the driveline, and I leave with a lot more boost then before the staging brake. On the 9.9 pass in this video the car took a right towards the wall but I stayed in it ( in car GoPro has a good view of it ). It left with 22 psi which is way more then usual ( about 12 psi ).

Video my buddy Chad made me:

Is that basically just a hydraulic hand brake?

What clutch is in the car Mike?

Wow that's pretty cool. So that's different than a 2 step/launch control?

thakingcb7 said:

Is that basically just a hydraulic hand brake?

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Yes, that is exactly what it is.

SBstar said:

What clutch is in the car Mike?

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ACT twin disc ( about 5 seasons old now ).

Jacolu3 said:

Wow that's pretty cool. So that's different than a 2 step/launch control?

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Yes, it is a hydraulic brake. Where it helps us is it allows us AWD guys to preload the driveline. Which takes some of the shock off it. It also allows us to create load, which will allow the car to make more boost then just the two-step ( at least with ECMlink ). With some stand alone ECU's you can manipulate boost on the two-step.

Was this a kit or hand picked parts?

Killing it on the track!

buddahboost said:

Was this a kit or hand picked parts?

Killing it on the track!

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I don't think anyone sells a kit ready to go. There is a good write up by someone on the Buschur forum that has everything needed to buy and how to install. I bought this off my buddy Nick Stack so most of what I needed was included.

So you're basically brake boosting off the line? And how do you use it.... like how far out are you coming with the clutch?

thakingcb7 said:

So you're basically brake boosting off the line? And how do you use it.... like how far out are you coming with the clutch?

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I guess you can say that. I still use the 2-step as well. But yes the brake as I mentioned allows for more boost due to the additional load.

I grab the brake and roll into the pre-stage beam, start to bring up the Rpm's, and let the clutch out a bit. Bump into the stage beam and go WOT. Pull the brake hard, and let the clutch out until I feel the car squat and boost come up. When light comes down, let off clutch and brake at the same time.

Are you dumping the clutch at that point, or still a quick slip?

SBstar said:

Are you dumping the clutch at that point, or still a quick slip?

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I tried a quick slip first couple of passes and it bogged bad. So now I just dump it.

So, you're on the launch control, handbrake pulled and clutch slipping, then release the brake and clutch at the same time? Doesnt this kill the clutch? I havent ever really looked into trans brakes so I have pretty much no idea how it all works. But from what I've read (maybe Im misunderstanding) that while this is easier on drivetrain, it would be hell on the clutch..

crash89 said:

So, you're on the launch control, handbrake pulled and clutch slipping, then release the brake and clutch at the same time? Doesnt this kill the clutch? I havent ever really looked into trans brakes so I have pretty much no idea how it all works. But from what I've read (maybe Im misunderstanding) that while this is easier on drivetrain, it would be hell on the clutch..

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Yes it will harder on the clutch. The big gain is how much harder the car comes out. First night using it I ran a new best 60'. I think the car will go 1.3x. I have a twin disc so this clutch will obviously take more abuse then a single. In fact, this is season 5 on it. So it has already exceeded my expectations. This isn't a trans brake, that refers to a auto trans.

It's not a trans break. It locks two wheels, one of the fronts and one on the opisite side of the rear. It's spliced into the normal break lines. I guess i dont really see a huge diff then using the e break to preload?

UrbanSmoker said:

It's not a trans break. It locks two wheels, one of the fronts and one on the opisite side of the rear. It's spliced into the normal break lines. I guess i dont really see a huge diff then using the e break to preload?

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I tried the e-brake. It sucks in my opinion. The transition is far from optimal.The staging brake is 100 times easier to use and is an actual hydraulic brake. The e-brake is just not strong enough to hold. Maybe for a 400-500 HP car, but once over that it won't work.

I have mine set to lock both rears, but you can also do it the way you described.

I've always wanted to do this... but I'm too lazy

Sounds like racecar stuffs!! ha, but still interesting. So, without the staging brake what kind of 60's can you manage? My first time out with my twin disk I got some decent seat time and was able to consistently improve my 60's and was able to get a 1.6 on cheap street tires. Im sure If I turned up the launch control and some more seat time I could improve still. But mine is still driven on the street frequently so I dont want to rebuild the clutch every year.

I have several 1.4 60' times without the brake. But first night out with it and ran a 1.42 60' which was a new best. I am looking for high 1.3's next time out ( next week ).

thakingcb7 said:

I've always wanted to do this... but I'm too lazy

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I bought this set up over a year ago! So I can relate. But if you are a frequent drag racer then this is worth the effort. It really isn't that difficult to install.

Glad to see you're getting better 60's with the staging brake, I've been having a heck of a time these last few years launching the ACT twin too. Currently installing a stage brake for this winter's race season out here but wasn't too confident it would do much...

How high are you wrapping out 1st before taking it into 2nd and are you bouncing it off the rev limiter before you shift?

REALLY glad to see it worked for you, those launches look great as long as the drivetrain takes the abuse too.

Something I'll look into for sure. I guess you can probably remove the e breaj and mount the staging break in it's place if you wanted? Assuming you dont need the e break for your driveway .

UrbanSmoker said:

Something I'll look into for sure. I guess you can probably remove the e breaj and mount the staging break in it's place if you wanted? Assuming you dont need the e break for your driveway .

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The brake has a vertical handle, if you did this it would be too far back to be comfortable to use. I mounted the brake in what I felt was the best location. You want a close and easy transition when you release it to grab the shifter. I also refused to give up my e-brake! I still drive it on the street and do use it. While I will agree this is more of a race car mod, my car is not a race only car.

gofer said:

Glad to see you're getting better 60's with the staging brake, I've been having a heck of a time these last few years launching the ACT twin too.

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What issues were you having? I never had a problem getting good launch's with the ACT. I installed this because I want even better 60's.

gofer said:

How high are you wrapping out 1st before taking it into 2nd and are you bouncing it off the rev limiter before you shift?

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9800 Rpm on the 1-2 shift. Rev limit it set to 10,000.

gofer said:

REALLY glad to see it worked for you, those launches look great as long as the drivetrain takes the abuse too.

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Pre-loading it with the brake will help.

I don't want to crash your results thread but, briefly, before I attribute my launching issues to needing a driver mod (who wants to admit that?) I've replaced both my master/slave cylinder and TOB with OE to see if it helps. Seemed like pedal feel was inconsistent with engagement, which combined with trying to figure out what RPM to launch at has proven tough.

I'm on a stock 7-bolt and valve train so revving to 8k is about all I'm comfortable with, which comes FAST launching at 5750 it's banging off the rev limiter the second the clutch comes up.


Thanks for the response, glad to see the clutch is capable of pulling good 60's. Now it's time to see if the driver (me) is capable...

gofer said:

I don't want to crash your results thread but, briefly, before I attribute my launching issues to needing a driver mod (who wants to admit that?) I've replaced both my master/slave cylinder and TOB with OE to see if it helps. Seemed like pedal feel was inconsistent with engagement, which combined with trying to figure out what RPM to launch at has proven tough.

I'm on a stock 7-bolt and valve train so revving to 8k is about all I'm comfortable with, which comes FAST launching at 5750 it's banging off the rev limiter the second the clutch comes up.


Thanks for the response, glad to see the clutch is capable of pulling good 60's. Now it's time to see if the driver (me) is capable...

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No problem. I found it doesn't need to be slipped much at all. If you slip it too much it will bog. Is that what it is doing? It looks like you have a 2g, did you remove the restrictor?

This clutch is very capable! Mine has five seasons of racing on it and still working great.