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2gb front bumper on my '96.
 

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Swapped wheels back to DD
95% of the b16g install complete. What a headache.

I will NEVER buy another Megan Racing part again. They warp the shit out of the flanges, especially on the O2 housing (which is my second one since the first had holes in the welds), and it will never seal right. I knew this a while ago, but had the ability to use a composite gasket to soak up the difference. Now I can't find them, so I'm stuck with the stamped OEM gasket, and you can see the daylight right through. I also took a real good informed look at the bend in the tubing too.. while it's wider than an OEM housing, you lose about 30% of the depth. It's not a gradual turn, and I wouldn't doubt if it's a total flake of a part. The only thing it has going for it is a 2.5" exit to downpipe.

Sure, it's shiny, especially after some age where it turns all sorts of cool colours, but it's just not quality workmanship. Go figure, considering the manufacturer.

I can only imagine what the quality of the downpipe flex section is. I know the flange itself is angled which even makes mating to their own O2 housing difficult. What joy.

So, I'm rockin an Evo 1 housing now going into a 2.5" downpipe. Fairly certain I'm to expect some nasty boost creep.
 
BLT >1:40 to bleed 25psi
tested wastegate actuator and mbc
Tweaked tune for 94 octane
set MBC to 19psi and did a short 3rd gear pull to 5k. Omg night and day difference from the 14b.
 
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was a couple days ago but I forgot to post... Carbon added.

Gahh id love me some carbon doors. But theyre expensive and the dam is going on the back burner after this season for another project! Looks great.

Latest things ive done besides driving it have been, hot the dyno a couple weekends ago (473/464awhp) and installed this bad boy!!

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Looked at it sitting in pieces with tons of parts to install. Turned around and continued putting a cylinder head on a customer's 2003 Audi TT....


Pretty much this, except yesterday a ford, today a volvo, tomorrow the vw's and a 350z....

Add in yelling at the spyders block on the stand because I got .025 bearings for a .25 cut crank and didn't realize til after I VERY carefully assembled it...

I think made a mistake starting to work on cars for a job.... Now none of my stuff gets done, hell I've had a new front driveline cardone joint and adj camber ball joints to put on my jeep for years now...
 
Working on the SD dial-in on unmodified 2g timing table and max 20psi.
I have FIC-750s, but I'm at -30.7% global @ 42.5psi base pressure with 320u deadtime. Overall, my LTFT are within a few percent and in some odd places I'm spiking +8% CombinedFT in cruise depending on RPM. Nevertheless, I'm deciding not to make too much of a change in those spots as going from 20mmHg to 15mmHg vac usually clears that up right away.

However, my SD idle cells (I idle at 900) are at 68 and my SDAirFlowPerRev is still .22-.23 after driving for a while. But with +/- 3% CombinedFT. My max VE cell is 103 at 4500rpm and 31.2psi absolute pressure.

So the only way I figure I can get around .25 is to raise my global even more, rescale the entire table to compensate, and increase my idle cells so that I'm not sitting at >70 in that cell.

hypothetical Q: would an advanced exhaust cam increase VE? I'm guessing so.
 
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Installed aeromotive's new fuel pressure regulator with extremepsi's install kit, removed fuel pressure solenoid, just need to fab a mount.
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Got new spark plug cables finally, and replaced my bad battery terminals that left me stranded at the bank till someone gave me a boost then raced home ha,

that's when I realised hmm I have 13v at the battery and only 9 volts at the connectors LOL I must of been running off my alt to get home
 
Went to do a BLT and the tester was to large to fit on the turbo inlet because of the Compressor Outlet Pipe. So I put her back together and will wait until tomorrow when i can pick up a coupler to extend it passed the compressor pipe.
 
Finished the motor install, only needing coolant and rewire my TPS for the 91 TB and swap wires on the ISC, put in the battery and then ready to see if it will start up on the new SD setup, crossing fingers....twice!
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Gutted the back except for rear seats and speakers. Slowly working on stripping it completely down and scrapping the rusted out shell. Just need to finish my truck before it can get ride the talon
 
found either my pmp or fuelab afpr is not regulating consistently at idle w/o vac attached. sometimes 40psi, 42, or 50.. throws ve and ft off all the time. sigh

met up with three other owners for a cruise
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Finished masking off, wax/degrease and epoxy primed the bay, 2 coats

looks like some dysfunctional dalmatian, no more time or patience to strip it anymore, touched a few bondo spots up but could have done A LOT better, oh well.

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epoxy primer, clearcoat and basecoat, $169 worth of paint.... $150 guns, $150 compressor (total score, just needed a new safety relief and drain valve).... Painting my own cars forever = priceless
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BTW I now have the filter/water separator full of desiccant and 50ft away from the compressor with some hose coiled up in a 5 gal bucket filled with cold water to help cool and condense the air. (pro tip from paint shop)

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Basecoat and clearcoat tomorrow!


how do u like the driveway paint booth LOL, was free, a tenant left at rental, score

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This is my first time using REAL auto paint and guns, so engine bay was good practice. I'll practice on a fender first, then have a whole perfect set of fenders, doors and hood to go on, but they are red....



hmmm about a year ago this thing looked about the same LOL. This time it should hold up better than the rattle can job last time, mind you it was prepped well and duplicolor auto spray primer/paint/clear was used, but the first drop of brake fluid on the paint ate the clear collected dirt and smudged it all up... boo never again.

aug 22 2014, here it was with the rattle can, actually very smooth and probably smoother than it will come out this time, just did not hold up worth crap.
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