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2G Intake options for 16g and no MAF, non recirc (SD)

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TehRiceBandit

Proven Member
317
52
Dec 12, 2013
Bay Area, California
Few questions. Looking for an air intake setup to use with a 16g (2.25" inlet) and no MAF, non recirc. I'm aware of the STM setup, is that the only thing available? The 4" FP pipe with the reducer is bad for performance I read. I could plug the recirc tube but I prefer a cleaner looking setup if available.

Also, when people go to speed density where do they typically relocate their valve cover breather line to? The line on the air intake.

Thanks.
 
I don't know about all the others stuff cause I sm not as familiar with the SD setup but you should be able to plumb the valve cover breather to the atmosphere. but if you look up speed density you should realistically be able to hook up another pcv valve with the check valve reverse and plump it into you charged pipe because the air is only being monitored in the intake so anything from charge pipe is game on. Someone correct me if I am wrong here
 
Even when you go SD, you usually still run with a full operational PCV setup. The breather line between the left side of the valve cover and is attached to the intake still would be, or it would be run to a catch can that's vented or to a can that's sealed and run to the air intake.. You can put a filter directly on the valve cover, but you would not be separating air and oil and you end up with oily film in your engine bay from ANY blow-by. With SD, you're not introducing a leak this way since SD gives no shits about this kind of leak, but it's still not ideal.

On a 16g, you're not going to notice a difference going with a 4" reducer. I mean, it's not a super high powered turbo anyway. An intercooler that requires a 90* turn in flow to operate, such as the ETS cores, provide more restriction.

What you could also do is run a sealed can between the valve cover and intake with recirc provision, but devise a plug for the recirc hole that would accept a hosebarb instead. This would then attach to your catch can. It's what I plan on doing.

If you decide(d) to run no catch can, well, you have an oily mess either in your engine bay (filter method) or your charge pipes (direct line with method above).
 
Even when you go SD, you usually still run with a full operational PCV setup. The breather line between the left side of the valve cover and is attached to the intake still would be, or it would be run to a catch can that's vented or to a can that's sealed and run to the air intake.. You can put a filter directly on the valve cover, but you would not be separating air and oil and you end up with oily film in your engine bay from ANY blow-by. With SD, you're not introducing a leak this way since SD gives no sh**s about this kind of leak, but it's still not ideal.

On a 16g, you're not going to notice a difference going with a 4" reducer. I mean, it's not a super high powered turbo anyway. An intercooler that requires a 90* turn in flow to operate, such as the ETS cores, provide more restriction.

What you could also do is run a sealed can between the valve cover and intake with recirc provision, but devise a plug for the recirc hole that would accept a hosebarb instead. This would then attach to your catch can. It's what I plan on doing.

If you decide(d) to run no catch can, well, you have an oily mess either in your engine bay (filter method) or your charge pipes (direct line with method above).

I'm running a catch can right now. It looks like I'll weld in a fitting on whatever intake pipe I go to and keep the same PCV setup. For the reducer though, there's a thread floating around showing a 15hp difference. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bad-idea-to-run-fp-intake-on-stock-turbo.473369/
 
At 400bhp, are you going to notice a difference, that's what I'm getting at. Not pure numbers from a dyno that changes every dyno you go to, but if somebody were to put a reducer like that on without your knowledge and told you to go romp it, would you even notice? We're talking less than 4%..

If what you're after is dyno results, sure, you might see a consistent drop of a tiny bit in the upper range.

Ideal? No, not really. Worth it to worry about? That's up to you to decide.
 
At 400bhp, are you going to notice a difference, that's what I'm getting at. Not pure numbers from a dyno that changes every dyno you go to, but if somebody were to put a reducer like that on without your knowledge and told you to go romp it, would you even notice? We're talking less than 4%..

If what you're after is dyno results, sure, you might see a consistent drop of a tiny bit in the upper range.

Ideal? No, not really. Worth it to worry about? That's up to you to decide.

Not worth it for a $100+ intake
 
Put a brass nipple in the flexible (intercooler type) coupler that makes a 45* for your intake and silicone it in on the back side, or that's the way we are running ours. Easy and no welding. Its only sucking fumes out anyway. You can still run a filter between it and the intake so you don't get oil in the turbo and intercooler.
 
That should work just like factory!
 
I got a 3" aluminum pipe and 3" to 2.25" reducer/coupler on ebay from CX racing for about $20 then put a 3" K&N on it. I plan on welding a fitting on the side to go to my catch can.

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How's the fitment with this?
 
My intake piping is made from 3" aluminum piping. The 4" FP intake doesn't hurt your intake because it only chokes down to the size of the compressor inlet anyway.... it's not going to cause a problem for power.

After running SwedeDensity for years now I actually would prefer to have a recirc'd setup. There is no benefit to venting the BOV other than you sound like a ricer.
 
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