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Street Build 1G 91 TSI 4G63T

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Michigan dsm

Probationary Member
13
0
Mar 16, 2015
coloma, Michigan
I recently purchased this 91 Talon Tsi from a friend that I work with. The only thing assembled is the motor, every thing else is in pieces. I'm just starting to put it together. Here is a pic of the motor. I'll be adding more pictures as I continue assembly, and drop it in the car. The motor has had some work done at a local machine shop and has yet to be started.
img20150630_234343.jpg
 
Looks like it was built for some big power. Does it have a oil sump system or something? Or just a aftermarket crank/pulley? What turbo does it have? You sure you up for this bro LOL. I would make sure you have every single thing you need to finish before you start. And a good torque spec list.
 
Looks like it was built for some big power. Does it have a oil sump system or something? Or just a aftermarket crank/pulley? What turbo does it have? You sure you up for this bro LOL. I would make sure you have every single thing you need to finish before you start. And a good torque spec list.

Yeah Im up for it. As far as I know the motor has been bored .030 over, head has been milled, ported and polished ,new valves and spring, custom arp head studs, stock cams, the bottom end had been line bored and milled to match, the pistons and rods are forged(I'm not sure what brand, the previous owner hasn't given me all the paper work and extra parts that come with it) , I believe the crank is stock, the turbo is a t3 , the only thing I am missing is a timing belt tensioner , I'm trying to find an OEM one, the motor has never been started, I have no clue the hp or tq it is expected to make , what am I getting my self into LOL
 
Yeah Im up for it. As far as I know the motor has been bored .030 over, head has been milled, ported and polished ,new valves and spring, custom arp head studs, stock cams, the bottom end had been line bored and milled to match, the pistons and rods are forged(I'm not sure what brand, the previous owner hasn't given me all the paper work and extra parts that come with it) , I believe the crank is stock, the turbo is a t3 , the only thing I am missing is a timing belt tensioner , I'm trying to find an OEM one, the motor has never been started, I have no clue the hp or tq it is expected to make , what am I getting my self into LOL
I have a Haynes and 3 different Mitsubishi factory service manuals so I have a pretty good source for torque specs
 
its just there to keep the belt in place, the guy that built it told me it was no good, and i need to get a new one before i start it.
 
1434408833747-1.jpg
Earlier this week I got the flywheel and clutch bolted on I'm using an 8lb Fidanza flywheel, ARP Supra flywheel studs, that I had to shorten on a surface grinder, and a ACT heavy duty sprung 4 puck , 415 torque capacity
 
Well, here it is, its been sitting in a warehouse for 5 years and it finally sees the light of day, pretty dusty. Going to wash it up on the 4th
Snapchat--4382316729255442613-1.jpg
 
Personally, I would tear the engine down and check all specs. And pay special attention to the heads specs since it has been "milled". As this does actually effect valve timing, compression and valve to piston clearance.

Also if its been bored for oversize pistons, this will effect airflow per revolution. Any idea what pistons were used or at least their compression ratio? But maybe I'm jumping the gun, what are your goals? What are you going to use for tuning? Metering airflow etc?
 
I work with the guy that originally started the build, its been 3+ years since any thing has been done to the motor. He is working on getting all the paper work together so I can get all the specs on the motor. What I know off hand is that it has reconditioned rods (I previously said they were forged, they are not) it was bored .030 over and has hypereutectic wiseco pistons. The compression was left close to stock. I would be very happy if I could get it close to the 400hp mark. I'm going for a semi daily driver that I can have a bit of fun with on the local track
 
img20150705_225629.jpg


I got it washed and waxed over the weekend its been sitting for a long time and looks good washed up. There is so much I want to do to it, but at the beginning of July in Michigan I just want to get the motor in the car and drive it. For right now I will be using the stock intercooler and stock air intake setup. I have all the workings to do a GM maf setup but would like get dsm link before I do that. I ordered an OEM timing belt tensioner from STM , hopefully it will be here this week.
 
Personally, I would tear the engine down and check all specs. And pay special attention to the heads specs since it has been "milled". As this does actually effect valve timing, compression and valve to piston clearance.

Also if its been bored for oversize pistons, this will effect airflow per revolution. Any idea what pistons were used or at least their compression ratio? But maybe I'm jumping the gun, what are your goals? What are you going to use for tuning? Metering airflow etc?
I find out a little bit more every day , today I learned it was only milled enough to clean it up, only a couple thousandths , not enough to affect timing
 
Once you have DSMLink / ECMLink, I would check the 1g MAS carefully. I have seen them get real screwy in there old age. I was hunting that problem for a LONG time. I had the same issue with a 2G MAS that was on the car, so I swapped a 1g MAS back on the car to "test" if the 2g MAS was bad....long story short, they were both bad!! What are the chances!? She's got a properly working 2g MAS at the moment until I upgrade to ECMLink, then i'll be going speed density. Point to my story was to verify it's readings are making sense once you get link and can log it. They are 25-26yr's old now.

Also, as you probably know, 400whp will be pushing it on that bottom end. It will still be "safe" so long as it's tuned well and doesn't start encounter any knock/pre-ignition. "450whp" is the "safe" limit. But that's with a perfect tune, and that's not what I call safe. "safe" in my mind means I can get a tank of bad gas and not blow up my engine.

What kind of budget do you have to work with for this goal of 400whp?

P.S. Let me know how you like the clutch setup. I have yet to use a puck setup but have been pretty curious.
 
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