turtlebain
10+ Year Contributor
- 447
- 27
- May 16, 2012
-
Rochester,
New_York
I'm having an issue keeping the car at idle, it wants to die almost immediatley when started up, Car was holding idle fine just about a week ago (and driving) but then lost fuel pressure from bad hose connection inside tank, fixed it, and then had start up issues.
New 6 bolt & Trans build, COP setup, 1G CAS from 90 wired direct into harness (no adapter harness made)
Test's done:
I have done a boost leak down test to about 20 PSI, running wastegate pressure now..
Tested Spark turning over engine by hand with grounded spark plug watching them fire 1 by 1
Tested fuel by taking the rail off tying injectors to rail with metal wire, applying battery voltage. Each is misting fuel about the same volume with good spray pattern.
Resistance at injectors They all fluctuated up when testing
4 - 2.6-2.8 ohm 3 - 2.6-2.8 ohm 2 - 2.6-2.7 ohm 1 - 2.6-2.8 ohm
Compression results all were done until compression tester was rising very slowly
4 - 150 PSI @ 12 cranks
3 - 145 PSI @ 13 cranks
2 - 100 PSI @ 12 cranks
1 - 150 PSI @ 12 cranks
* note on compression this motor is still breaking in and when attempting fuel injector test 1st time cyl 2 filled with gas and wiped oil off walls, before this car was running, compression test ed at 100 100 40 100 before ANY break in whatsoever. When applying oil in cyl 2 compression jumped to 135+ for that cylinder. So I'm seeing improvement there but still lower than others. break in is not complete at this point. Also note on the build my machinist fitted rings to 35+ PSI tolerance by Manley's specifications which I believe calls for them to be a bit looser to allow blow by with high boost. So I don't think this engine is going to achieve "normal" factory motor compression standards. I could be wrong here.
Tested CAS by turning it over and listening for injectors to fire.
Also not timed with a timing light, but the marks do line up on the cam wheels all the way across. I was going to take it somewhere to get that done as I don't have access to a timing light currently.
I'm looking into the possibility that the ECU has gone bad
Top side of ECU looks OK to me with no apparently blown capacitors , burns, you know, usual signs of circuitry malfunctions:
New 6 bolt & Trans build, COP setup, 1G CAS from 90 wired direct into harness (no adapter harness made)
Test's done:
I have done a boost leak down test to about 20 PSI, running wastegate pressure now..
Tested Spark turning over engine by hand with grounded spark plug watching them fire 1 by 1
Tested fuel by taking the rail off tying injectors to rail with metal wire, applying battery voltage. Each is misting fuel about the same volume with good spray pattern.
Resistance at injectors They all fluctuated up when testing
4 - 2.6-2.8 ohm 3 - 2.6-2.8 ohm 2 - 2.6-2.7 ohm 1 - 2.6-2.8 ohm
Compression results all were done until compression tester was rising very slowly
4 - 150 PSI @ 12 cranks
3 - 145 PSI @ 13 cranks
2 - 100 PSI @ 12 cranks
1 - 150 PSI @ 12 cranks
* note on compression this motor is still breaking in and when attempting fuel injector test 1st time cyl 2 filled with gas and wiped oil off walls, before this car was running, compression test ed at 100 100 40 100 before ANY break in whatsoever. When applying oil in cyl 2 compression jumped to 135+ for that cylinder. So I'm seeing improvement there but still lower than others. break in is not complete at this point. Also note on the build my machinist fitted rings to 35+ PSI tolerance by Manley's specifications which I believe calls for them to be a bit looser to allow blow by with high boost. So I don't think this engine is going to achieve "normal" factory motor compression standards. I could be wrong here.
Tested CAS by turning it over and listening for injectors to fire.
Also not timed with a timing light, but the marks do line up on the cam wheels all the way across. I was going to take it somewhere to get that done as I don't have access to a timing light currently.
I'm looking into the possibility that the ECU has gone bad
Top side of ECU looks OK to me with no apparently blown capacitors , burns, you know, usual signs of circuitry malfunctions: