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Spyder 2.4l 4g64 DOHC 4g63 Stroker Turbo Swap Fully Built Tucked Engine Bay Street/Show Vert

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Me and you are going with the same engine. Did you go with stock length rods? So you're sticking with a T25/T28 on the 2.4 are you? That thing is going to be like a supercharger, hahahaha. What turbo do you plan to go with in the future? Also, how tight is the tension on the 2.0L belt? Can you still stick the pin in the hydro tensioner or is it up enough to where you cant?
 
Yeah its stock length eagle rods.

Stock now to get the car running properly and because out of money at this point. First have to get ecm link, wide band and injectors, then a mit big 16g would probably be the biggest it will go and can be found for relatively cheap.

The lil t25 will have plenty of flow rate with intake, 3" apexi and os valves, now need header and ported o2 housing.

I would not be able to put the pin in the tensioner but not by much, I can twist the belt by a 1/4 on the long side ( I read somewhere that is about right.) It still seems pretty tight to me, but the engine spins just fine and the remarked cams always line up to the pistons TDC.

I had a thread on it but never got any responses from people actually running this setup. It would be a very bad day if the belt takes a crap after all this work...
 
Yeah, I've got an FP Big28 that I was planning on running on my 2.4 as well. Mine's 156mm rods and stroker Wiseco HD's though is the only difference. Although I've been debating going with a Hyundai head(43cc Combustion chamber) to bump compression up to 9:1.


Reason I ask about the belt is I saw the thread when you first posted it, and was asking a good friend of mine that works in a fairly well known shop in MI, and was asking how tight is "too tight" for a t-belt, and he mentioned as long as you can't get the pin back in the hydro tensioner, it's fine. He said he wouldn't worry unless the hydro tensioner stayed compressed, so it's good to know it's moved up at least a little!
 
Thanks for the info on the T belt, make me feel a bit more comfortable. Getting a kevlar belt very soon for extra strength if it stretches.

Here it is today. I started it for just a split second just to see if it would fire and it did! Getting trans fluid tonight, redline mt 90 and I will be able to start it up!

eclipse_running_engine-jpg.jpg


All but radiator in, cause its the ugly stock one LOL. Nice slimline fan and all aluminium rad will be soon.

Oh and dont mind the tape around the bov tube... leftover heatcore hose and it fit niclly into the dump adapter, matches and all I had.

Also I ran out of ideas on where to mount the MBC so just stuck it there. things can be altered later for now just trying to get it running again.
 
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So.....

I just noticed

2G_CoolantLines-1.jpg


#20 and 19... block to turbo water coolant.... I dont have that tube bolted to the block and I just quickly looked and cant even see where it goes. I really hope I dont have to take off the whole turbo manifold and crap

just great and I thought I was done
 
Did you just bondo over the bolts holes that you weren't using in the engine bay and on the firewall? No welding first or anything?
 
Had a few coolant leaks (Had to get oem coolant pipe o rings and had to drill the tab that bolts to the block out a bit to reach the t-stat housing due to increased deck height) but the car is running pretty good now and ready for the 20 mile break in then third oil change, then 500 mile break in.

On the turbo/oil coolant lines I ended up putting a T in to split to each one.

Now too bad the owners ex slashed all his tires and he is trying to sell/trade a set of chrome 17" rims for nice tires on the oem sport rims..... Or we would be driving it LOL. Oh well I have a dead pony (2003 mustang GT) to bring back to life in the meantime.


Savings already in the works for:


wideband
ecm link
injectors
mit 16g


It has a walbro 190 already, rewired.
Have these stats, not entirely sure what we want yet though. Thinking 850's at 20 psi, hmm wait at 100% duty cycle that would put it 10lbs/min over what the pump can handle. Well we will get to this when its time.

650cc @ 100% IDC will support 46.66lbs/min
650cc @ 80% IDC will support 37.32lbs/min

660cc @ 100% IDC will support 47.37lbs/min
660cc @ 80% IDC will support 37.90lbs/min

720cc @ 100% IDC will support 51.68lbs/min
720cc @ 80% IDC will support 41.34lbs/min

750cc @ 100% IDC will support 53.83lbs/min
750cc @ 80% IDC will support 43.07lbs/min

780cc @ 100% IDC will support 55.99lbs/min
780cc @ 80% IDC will support 44.79lbs/min

850cc @ 100% IDC will support 61.01lbs/min
*850cc @ 80% IDC will support 48.80lbs/min

880cc @ 100% IDC will support 63.17lbs/min
880cc @ 80% IDC will support 50.53lbs/min

950cc @ 100% IDC will support 68.19lbs/min
950cc @ 80% IDC will support 54.55lbs/min

1000cc @ 100% IDC will support 71.78lbs/min
1000cc @ 80% IDC will support 57.42lbs/min

1150cc @ 100% IDC will support 82.54lbs/min
1150cc @ 80% IDC will support 66.04lbs/min

Walboro 190lph (Rewired)

10psi = 60.68lbs/min
11psi = 59.85lbs/min
12psi = 59.01lbs/min
13psi = 58.16lbs/min
14psi = 57.29lbs/min
15psi = 56.40lbs/min
16psi = 55.49lbs/min
17psi = 54.57lbs/min
18psi = 53.63lbs/min
19psi = 52.67lbs/min
*20psi = 51.70lbs/min
21psi = 50.71lbs/min
22psi = 49.71lbs/min
23psi = 48.68lbs/min
24psi = 47.64lbs/min
25psi = 46.58lbs/min
 
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Did the 20 mile break yesterday in at 12 psi, motoman method

It did absolutely great, better than I expected. No leaks, running smooth, at half throttle its already one of the fastest cars I have driven. I cannot wait for more boost!

Now to break in the clutch/engine for 480 more miles before really opening it up.



a nearly 6 month project is finally coming to a close, for the time being, it will always need something.
Actually it needs a lot, rear disc conv and sway bar that we didn't get to yet, soft top, body kit, paint, shocks/springs, ect

Thank you everyone that has helped me though this, I would like to remind everyone that this is my first time working on a DSM, my first real experience with turbo and first time attempting to build a car this custom. Sure I've done plenty of timing belts, head gaskets and stock rebuilds, but having nothing but a pile of parts and trying to put it back together and look like this is quite a different situation.

Point is anyone can do it!
 
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Awesome. Sounds good. I'm extremely jealous. Still waiting for parts and cash to finish mine. I don't want to start or get mine running until I've got the turbo I want(Green XL) and the fuel setup/ECMLink.
 
So after the coolant pipe cracked at the weld... A week later and the car is on the road.

With a shiny new PLX Gen 4 wideband and DM-6 gauge

Vac is at 21 is this pic, crappy digital boost gauge went out, hence ugly gauge shoved in there cause we had it.

2015-01-21%2015.41.36_zpsvlcozisj.jpg


Its driving good and the owner loves it. Very fast car even at 3/4 throttle and 5k rpm max, got to break it in 500 mi before going hard.

Things it needs right away: shift bushings, exhaust down pipe (leaking at flex) would like a kevlar timing belt, some other stuff I cant remember atm. Besides all the body work... Oh and the alternator is making a hell of a whine over the stereo....
 
What kind of power are you making off the 2.4.......... im running a 2.4l bored .20 over with a 20g and comp 272 cams so im wondering what kind of numbers ill be looking at when i get it started
 
We have not got it dyno yet and it is still on stock turbo, injectors and tuning. This summer he will get ecm link, injectors and a big 16g. Then dyno.

He has put about 2000 miles on it and its been running good, need to get the flex pipe exhaust leak fixed still though...
 
Thanks.

Thats the 4g63 belt, gates, previously put on the red parts car but only ran for a bit because he thought it had bent valve when it was BADLY blown headgasket, so basically new. No mods done to get it on but I unbolted the right bolt to the hydralic tensioner and rotated to get the belt on then put it back in place.

Pulled the pin, rotated engine a few dozen times, its smooth and lines up great every time.

View attachment 244777

With the remarked cam gears lined up to the head it puts the balancer here, pretty damn close like 1* off.

View attachment 244778
I checked tdc with a screwdriver in #1 piston spark plug hole too and it is at the point where you can rock it back and fourth slightly and does not really go up or down.

This should be all good correct?

I was looking at a couple pictures online of the from 4g63t case and I was wondering about maybe using a 2.4L tensioner if I could find one just was wondering if it would bolt up the same. I mean the 2.4L has 3 bolt bracket and the older 4g63 has the 2 bolt bracket on the right side. So you didn't have any problems? Has anyone just used the newer style 2.4L or I guess 4g64 tensioner on a 4g63? Im either ordering exactly what was there from factory from stm or might consinder doing this instead.[/QUOTE]
 
are you sure your timing is right? you said you were getting spark. are you getting a compression cough?whats the pressure in your cylinders?
 
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