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I believe it when I see it! Is that the same gun you used on those wheels? Because they came out Devine. Honestly ill be buying a quality gun for the next "merry go round" maybe even the same brand as yours:). Thanks for taking an interest I appreciate it a little more, since you can relate ,since you have an exceptional build many of us are fans of. When that time comes ill remember to I.m you.

Yeah, I used my Devilbiss gun to spray my wheels. I was extremely happy with how they turned out, and I appreciate your compliments.

Devilbiss makes some nice guns, but you'll pay for them. I've used a few Sharpe guns as well, and they performed pretty good too. A good paint gun is definitely an investment IMO. I've made my money back on what the gun cost me just by doing a few side paint jobs for friends. Invest in a good gun, and I'm sure you won't regret it. As always, feel free to hit me up with any questions you may have.
 
Update :
So i spent some time trying to diagnose a "bog/cut/stall ect" for months with no luck.
So now that graduated college (1st Half) i have a break to begin with the new goal..

I plan to pull the motor identify the low compression 120 120 120 150
and rebuild.
I plan to dial in my cams and shoot for high.

Started tearing already.
Had to stop since i need a 5mm hex socket thing to pull my arp head studs.
20151220_193820.jpg
 
So is anyone following?
MY comp was 120 120 120 150

and my valves look straight and no appearance of contact like i suspected.??\

Now the head was machined and had a full job done to it prior, so my question is is it possible the seats and valve didn't seal? any other top end possibilities ?

First time using a lever, wow ! i have no idea how i have done it with it before.
So i will be checking piston to wall clearance and ring condition to see if that could be the cause of bad compression.
20151227_172548.jpg
20151227_172608.jpg
 
Yeah above ^ that's a Plymouth 92 long block. Pretty cool:cool:

Yeah it will always have a six bolt since I have 2x more 6b spares + 1x 7 bolt.

Pulling the block so I can shave/paint/wire tuck the bay. And blue print the block and bore it .40 if I have to.


I ment is anyone following the question about the seats leading to faulty comp..
 
Yes, bad valve seating will contribute to bad compression, but none of yours look obviously bent or burned. Unless it was a consistently bad valve job to begin with, it would be highly unusual for all of the valve seats to go bad and produce almost identical results across all cylinders.

If your valve seals were bad, your crankcase would be pressurized. Still, you should have the valves and seats reground.

To bring compression numbers that low, you likely have worn rings.
 
Yes, bad valve seating will contribute to bad compression, but none of yours look obviously bent or burned. Unless it was a consistently bad valve job to begin with, it would be highly unusual for all of the valve seats to go bad and produce almost identical results across all cylinders.

If your valve seals were bad, your crankcase would be pressurized. Still, you should have the valves and seats reground.

To bring compression numbers that low, you likely have worn rings.
Ass I now suspect; the car ran for to long heavily rich. I have heard of this leading to rings failing... I will know the extent later. Fortunately my machinist is beyond willing to check valves for run out and seats.. Thanks for the comment I was looking to discuss it.
 
While I wait for the machine shop, I managed to strip the bay for wash/sand/bondo/primer, paint.

I was able to leave the A/C system completely connected , just moved it out the way a bit. Trying to save money on refrigerant and safe the world all at the same time.
Also moved the PS lines out the way, and got rid off the ABS mistake that was in the bay.
20160107_165539.jpg
20160107_165521.jpg
 
You're making good progress. It's discouraging to have to go back and re-do basic stuff, but we've all been there. I like that it makes a chance to do some extra things, like you are with the engine bay.

Let us know the diagnosis once the machine shop has had a look at the engine.
 
You're making good progress. It's discouraging to have to go back and re-do basic stuff, but we've all been there. I like that it makes a chance to do some extra things, like you are with the engine bay.

Let us know the diagnosis once the machine shop has had a look at the engine.
Thanks bro... Here's the current update. New piston to wall clearance is about .004 after the hone. It turns out the block had steel sleeves, and one came out during the honing process so new sleeve and back on.
It was cheaper then redoing another block and boring.

I'll provide more pics and info once block is back.... Right now in looking for another temporary cheap reliable car since mine died had to junk it. It was a crap cavalier. So this is seeting me back..
 
Get a gallon of wd40 and fill the ports with it. Look for any leaking around the valves into the combustion chamber. You can only do 8 at a time as the head has to sit on its side for a couple hours.
 
Get a gallon of wd40 and fill the ports with it. Look for any leaking around the valves into the combustion chamber. You can only do 8 at a time as the head has to sit on its side for a couple hours.
That's good advice. Question I wanted to relap the valves can I get away with using a drill or should I just do it by hand. Second what grit do you recommend I know there is more than one.
 
Keep up the hard work the car looks fantastic i wish i had the balls to try and respray mine
 

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