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2g build

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Updates: Pushing forward, got the bay and harness cleaned up. Re-routed the alt-lines, fixed a few things and wrapped it up with some fresh tubing. Looking to get everything connected and the fluids in next, but still have a lot of little things to take care of. First start deadline might be within reach.
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Nice work man, she's looking great. I wish I had your luck at diagnosing and fix problems, I've been trying to solve one problem on my 1g for months already and still haven't got it.
You totally just jinxed the shit out of me ha, nah I'm sure I'll run into some totally random hiccup due to my tendency to rush things when it gets close to the finish LOL.

Thanks for the positive feedback man, much appreciated.

My schedule blows during the week so I'll only have a couple hours here and there to try and get this beast fired up. :pray:
 
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Not a big update but slowly making some progress in the home stretch. Finally got the power steering pump & accessory belt installed. I had to mess around with a few different size belts because the Jay Racing kit comes with belts meant for the stock damper. Did end up finding a perfect combo/fit for both the accessory and alt to go with the Super Damper, I'll post those part numbers up in another post later. Looking forward to seeing what kind of results this setup has in terms of belt squeal, or a lack there of. Got the CHRA oil return line & fuel rail installed. Really happy with the results on this one also, the oil return line is as close to straight as you can get at 4" long from push-lok to push-lok. Also got most of the front wire harness secured. Should be getting the last remaining needed items delivered tomorrow afternoon so it looks like things are still on track for a first start Saturday maybe.
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Well I missed my target date. I attempted to crank the engine over earlier this evening but it's not cranking at all. I believe I can hear the starter relay kick over along with my my fuel pump relay. It's hard to tell because they both kick at the same time and the fuel pump relay is louder. If it is what I think it is than my starter is toast. I was having issues with it before so it would make sense. It doesn't make a sound at all, no clicking, grinding or whirling, etc. Checked the signal wire and the positive lead (closest post to firewall on starter) and all looked correct. Double checked a few other connections but all seemed correct as well. What's the scoop on starters for our cars? Is it the same story with using OEM compared to re-brands? Or would any starter be fine? I am planning on taking it in to get tested. I would just test it myself but I want to make sure because I had some strange wear patterns on my old flywheel ring gear. Another reason to replace it I guess.

Thanks for the input.
 
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It started! I heard fluid leaking out and had to shut it down. It was transmission fluid from the drivers side axle input shaft hole. I thought as long as it had fluid it would be alright but I guess it gets sloshed around even though it was in neutral. Need to put the axle back in tomorrow. The culprit was a combination of a bad starter (failed testing) and the Starter Solenoid harness clip connection, which I failed to notice until tonight.

:hellyeah:
 
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great stuff man!

That startup video was good too haha, I felt the tension, and anxiety.

So much excitement in a 1:28 clip, hahaha
 
great stuff man!

That startup video was good too haha, I felt the tension, and anxiety.

So much excitement in a 1:28 clip, hahaha

Dude, I wasn't expecting it to start at all. I was shocked at how quick it roared to life. Crazy how different it is compared to my stock setup. It acts like it's a beastly V8, ROFL

I ended up throwing the exhaust dp on last night in preparation for the first set of ring seat runs. It will be tricky because I am also bedding in a new clutch. I think the clutch will be fine as long as I don't go over 30 mph for any extended period of time and just take it easy. There's a nice long road on a hill near me where I can engine brake in incremental steps to get that crucial first 10 mile ring seat completed.
 
That's awesome man! I just broke my girlfriends engine in after our rebuild process for her 1G, brought it all the way to 7K and it sounded great, made the idle a lot better, cant wait to drive that thing more, I can only imagine your excitement though ! LOL
 
That's awesome man! I just broke my girlfriends engine in after our rebuild process for her 1G, brought it all the way to 7K and it sounded great, made the idle a lot better, cant wait to drive that thing more, I can only imagine your excitement though ! LOL
What was the process you chose to use for break-in?
 
First oil change looked good. The oil was very clean. Still working out some bugs. Need an opinion on this noise, misfire?


EDIT: Swapped plugs & wires, still makes that ticking sound, then pulled the connector for # 4 injector and it went away. The sound seems to fade out if I give it a little gas. I have a spare injector I can swap in to rule out the coil pack and/or wiring. If it is that injector, I guess I have a good excuse to upgrade to bigger ones now, ha.

On a more serious note, I attempted to drive it but was quickly forced to turn around to troubleshoot another issue. All of a sudden I am getting a strange groaning sound, like one of the axles is rubbing against something. Have not been able to track this noise down yet. Nothing visible when I inspect the drive-line. Nothing was wrong with any of the drive-line parts before I tore it down. I did swap replace the front drivers axle the other day though. The axle carrier bearing is my first guess but it doesn't make sense unless I damaged it somehow taking off the old axle to swap in the new one. I had used a small vise on the bracket piece to hold it in place while I worked the spline end out. I can't imagine having applied enough force to damage anything during that process. I have no other ideas what the sound could be. BOOOOOOO!

Other than that, everything else seems to be working well. My idle oil pressure is a constant 20-25psi. Cooling system is doing its job. Found a very small oil leak coming from my turbo oil feed line adapter which I'm certain just needs to be tightened up a bit.

EDIT: Swapped injectors and took the valve cover off to inspect what I could. Nothing abnormal looking. Thought maybe a keeper fell out and I dropped a valve but all the keepers are in place for that cylinder. Starting to think its just valve/lifter tick. It's not that loud, or violent sounding.

EDIT: The ticking turned out to be a lifter that took a little longer than normal to fully inflate. I plan on swapping them out the next time I have the head opened up. Ticking sound is completely gone now*
 
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What was the process you chose to use for break-in?


when I had my 2g engine rebuilt me and a friend found a good break in procedure guide , Basically it stated to let the car warm up... then go out for a drive, first run maybe 30 minutes, and on that drive to bring the rpm's up to red line a few good times to let the rings get hot and produce a good seal, then let it cool off after the drive, after cooled, go out and simply repeat a few more times till you feel satisfied.. I usually use break in oil SAE 30 weight and change after first 500 miles

This worked just fine on my 2g but it was rebuilt with oem spec ring gaps still living today with 30k miles almost after rebuild.
 
Updates: Where do I begin...

I have been chasing gremlins since my last update, but truth be told I just got back from taking some time off so I didn't spend any time on things last week. Over the weekend I was able to inspect the driveline to try and find the source of the groaning? sound. I ended up putting her up on jack stands and running it in 1st gear to track it down. That didn't work out so well as the sound would only last about a few minutes before subsiding, that and the fact that I am in a fairly tight garage that echos engine noise so it's a bit of a challenge isolating the source. I believe I have it narrowed down to my carrier bearing or one of the drive shaft bearings. It's more noticeable while sitting in the car. Seems to emanate from the drive shaft area directly under my seat. I am putting this one on hold for the moment.

I have the engine idling rock steady with a VERY responsive blip, but I seem to have a pretty bad boost/vacuum leak somewhere. It revs up but bounces off of the top of that RPM/throttle position. I am pretty sure I know what it's from so I am going to try and get a good boost leak test done tonight. If it is what I think it is than I'll have to wait until this friday or so for this coupler to arrive. The only other thing it might be is my TPS needing adjustment. Also, really need to find my OBD2 scanner to run codes.

Other bugs I've been working on include a strange interference issue with my shifter. It started to get sticky so I took out the console and started cleaning up the wiring mess that has been accumulating near the shifter linkages just to rule that out. The controller box for my wideband got jammed up somehow. Probably going to end up swapping out the shifter/assembly soon. It's starting to show it's age.

Noticed my intake cam gear was retarded about 1-1.5 degrees because the nuts were not torqued right. So I will also be rechecking the timing and re-torquing the cam gear adjustment nuts. Glad I caught that one early.

The starter swap was a win. I ended up replacing all my ground cables and cleaning up the terminal ends at the block and body bolt locations, getting a steadier voltage readout and it cranks over faster than my honda now.

Fixed the small oil leak coming from my oil feed line adapter, still have a small leak coming from the idiot light switch? Might need to re-seat that during the next oil change.

And finally on the subject of leaks, I found a small coolant leak from one of the heater core hoses that attached to the water pipe. Another one of those regular maintenance things that only show up after any major modifications. EDIT: I was not able to find the correct water pipe that supports a non-water cooled turbo setup so I opted to plug the feed niples. I threaded them and used stainless bolts with sealant and then capped them off with vacuum caps. Should be fine until I can score a NA pipe.

EDIT: Scanned fault codes, showing (1) P0141 for the rear 02.

EDIT: Tracked town the mystery sound, it was the carrier bearing. I must have unintentionally washed out all the grease when I cleaned it doing the axle swap. Lubed it up and it's been happy so far.
 
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Finally, after a couple weekends of beating my head against the wall I re-calibrated my TPS to .9k ohms and viola. Took it around the block a few times with zero issues :applause:. Still need to tidy up a few things but this DSM is off jack stands. Can't believe how something like the TPS being slightly off would cause such a headache. Looking forward getting the break-in completed.
 
Just hit 1,000 miles on this build. So far so good. :hellyeah:

My only gripe about this 2.3 is that it feels like it runs out of gear in 5th around 70 mph. Would like to get a longer? 5th gear swapped in.
 
I'm pretty sure there was but I never bothered checking because i thought the recall was expired? Of course now I wish I had checked.
 
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