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Power windows help!!!!!

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KaLo_o

10+ Year Contributor
231
0
Mar 9, 2009
Quebec, QC_Canada
Hey there... I just recently got my 1g dsm back on the road again... I noticed my power windows aint working... Both sides... So i bust out the voltmeter and no power is going to the harness on the driver... So i tried swaping with a good power window relay at the fuse box and still no power.... I could only read power at the fusebox when i pulled the fuse out... Only 1 pin had power... Is that normal? And i am asuming i should be able to read voltage at the harness connector on the door behind the panel and i cant.... Please help... Its getting hot these days and i cant open my windows!!! Its like a sauna in my car!!
 
I had a similar problem awhile ago..I did not go as far as checking for power..I looked at the fuse and it was fine..I checked the connections in the door they were hooked up just fine..Then I thought it's got to be the switch, so I got a switch from the junkyard..Well that one didn't work wither..And I was scratching my head trying to figure out why my freaking windows were not working..

Turned out that the switch was fine, sort of..The switch was in working order but did not work..Ao anyway I opened up the switch to find that there was a bunch of corrosion on the contact points in the switch itself..So I cleaned them back up, put the switch together, and never had a problem with the windows not working since..

I don't know if this will help you, but I was at my wits end trying to figure it out myself..And cleaning up the switch worked perfectly..
 
Hey man first off thanks alot for your help! And yes i also found corrosion on my switch...i took it apart cleaned the contact points with a wirebrush and still nothing... Im really scratching my head on this one... Does anybody know if you are supposed to read power at the harness connection of the switch?? I mean i imagine you would right? If anybody has their door panels off by any chance could you please test voltage at the harness clip and let me know what wire has power??? Im going on a 8 hour drive soon and i need my windows to work so i dont cook and die of heat stroke!!! Thank you
 
You cleaned it up with a wire brush:banghead:...The contact points are copper for a reason..You could have just scratched off the copper..I cleaned mine off with those cotton ear swabs..It took a little longer but, it worked out great for me..
 
I don't know if this will help but my buddy's window would only work when the door was opened all the way. A wire was getting caught or pulled somewhere in the conduit from the door to the car. He's really lazy and hasn't gotten it fixed though.
 
It's a bi*** to find the plugs, but make sure the door harness is plugged into the chassis harness. There's a plug under the dash, near the fuse box, almost behind the fuse box. Maybe someone replaced the door, and never plugged it in. Look for where the door wires come out of the hole in the metal frame of the door jamb, and follow the wires to the plug connections. Check the pass. side, too.

A couple years back I had driver-side window switch troubles (BTW, the whole system runs through the driver's switch; if the driver's switch is unplugged/faulty, the passenger's won't work.). I had to go through about 5 crappy used switches, then, I used the good parts from all of them to build one decent one. I did the vfaq 1-touch mod while I was at it: Auto-up driver's power window and switch cleaning for 1G DSMs

This article is great, EXCEPT: Don't grease the contacts, and don't sand them or use any abrasives. I tried that, and it lasted about a week. Instead, use the best/least pitted or burned sets of rocker contacts from your 5 different switches. I got my "best" switch for $5 from a local junk yard. It was sitting in a pool of rusty, stinky, malaria-water on the floor of an old 1.8 1G.
 
Ok, well i went lightly with the wire brush... And its a dollar store wirebrush its really soft... I dunno, im not talking about the ones u hook up on a drill or anything LOL... As for the door being completely open yeah its open so i dont think thats the same problem as me.... Can anybody test voltage at the clip for me??? Anybody???

Or even just test to see how many pins have power at the fuse holder...
 
The fuse holder only has power at one side; that's how a fuse works. So, you're good there. Likewise, the driver's door plug, at the switch, should have 12v + at one terminal with the ignition turned "on". Sorry, but I can't say which one. All my cars are assembled today. I'll check my FSM and see what it says.
 
Ok well i checked my conections under the dash like u said and everything looks plugged in! How much of a pain u say it is to locate those ? Cause i found them pretty easy, maybe cause it has ben disconected before
 
I guess you're not as big/tall as I am. From what I can read of the diagrams in my FSM, it's terminal #5 at the driver's switch; the plain (un-striped), blue wire. That one should be 12V hot. I may not be reading it right. Also, there is a fusible link somewhere. Are you sure the windows aren't just stuck to the weatherstrip? I did a sort-of door-swap. I had to beat the crap out of the glass to un-stick it from the rubber around the window opening. Try grabbing the glass, with one palm on either side of it, and forcing it open. It may just be stuck.
 
Yeah i dont think its stuck cause i thought it would be that solid blue wire and im def not gettimg a hotwire there... I even disconected the harness under the dash ( the one you mentioned ) and its not even hot there either... Its behind there then....the next pit stop for that wire is where? At the relay??? Im getting a hot wire at the relay... But after that... Nope!!!

The hot wire i am getting at the relay is the blue with a red stripe....

A fuseble link somewhere eh? I wonder if that would be the battery fuse ... Cause i did read somewhere that the 1g's power windows share that fuse along with other components

Ok nvm there is a seperate fuse for the windows and its fine i even tried a difrent one... Thats not the problem
 
How were you testing voltage at the relay? Did you unplug it, turn the key on and then test the terminals?
If so you might want to make sure the relay is good. After the power window relay, the circuit goes straight to the door.
 
did you ever managed to fix this? I'm having the exact same issue.. no hotwire at the doorswitch or under the dash
 
Just in case someone else ever comes across this issue, if you only have 1 hot wire going to the relay under the hood (called WDO) and you don't get a second hot wire when putting the car on contact, check the fuse in the junction box (under the dash) called "heater relay", it's a 10A fuse. This caused the issue for me.
 
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