A normal, no code, will look like a heart beat, a code will sweep, hold, quick sweep, so on.

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

Go to electrical and it shows how to read the sweeps.

ok i believe i got this right.. one long.. four short.. correct??

redfield102j said:

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ok i believe i got this right.. one long.. four short.. correct??

Click to expand...

According to vfaq.com that is a throttle possition sensor.

Is it possible its not bad? Is there a way to check to see if it is bad? This sensor cost 220 dollars would like to be sure it is bad before buying one

So i did the haines manual test for the tps. These are my readings on resistance. Scale set to Rx10k.. pin 1 and 4= .8 so 8k... way out of spec.. pins 2 and 4= ct .9 to ot .4 and sticks sometimes when letting off throttle at .5.. seems like that is backwards to me but even still isnt within spec.. so i ordered a tps

Update.. got car inspected.. on the drive home noticed some noise coming from trans.. sounded like an axle slipping on its gearing.. took transfer case off and the splines in the hole were all whorn out.. not to self.. check all splines when installing parts you yourself have never used.. tps sensor will be in wensday and it should be running good again.. cant wait.. o and i had a spare transfer case.. no harm no foul

So i got the tps today. Installed it and set it to haines manual spec and instruction. Car seems to be lil better but still goes to stupid mode when you go wot... im getting seriously pissed off with this car.. if anyone has any further ideas i would greatly appreciate it

buy a used one I have a couple of them.

I bought a bran new one. Even double checked to make sure all test were good. It turned off the check engine light. Made the car idle and rev alil smoother but any attempt to go over 4k rpms and it acts like its on a rev limiter or something

Did you replace the egr valve that was leaking when you swapped engines if not I would check to see if the egr is still puking in the intake. I think to much leak by of the exhaust gases from the egr may kill power in the higher rpms.

Ok so i have 2 ecu's for this car. I know one is for a 90 talon and one is for a 91. How do i tell wich one is wich? I have read about switching pins 6 and 14 on it to work right. These pins control maf resistor and closed throttle switch. Is it possible this could be causing my problem?

From your other thread you have two MD166262 ECUs. Both have original capacitors are those should be replaced and any damage from electrolyte leakage repaired.

The video you posted of the engine running exhibited idle surging and it sounded like there is a non-recirculated BOV installed. Is there?

You say that you tested for boost leaks and the car help 25 psi but was that with no additional air entering the intake. People sometime don't seem to grasp that the boost leak test that two parts, one to pressurize the system to find all the leak point and two to make sure that once pressurized it will hold that pressure without additional compressed air. The system will leak down but the longer it holds the pressure the better it is.

Since i posted the vid of it runing i have put on all the stock bov parts including resirc tube. When i did the boost leak test i conected to inlet of turbo and charged the system it as i stated held 25lbs after letting off air supply it held for prolly 45 seconds before i let air out and it still had good force when air was leased.. should i try test again and aee how long it will hold?