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Should I buy this?

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xdoboi

Probationary Member
18
0
Apr 8, 2015
West Bend, Wisconsin
I have a 1G Talon TSi AWD for sale in my area. It's from Arizona so it's rust free which is good because i'm in Wisconsin so it's a plus. It comes with an extra engine and has an assortment of aftermarket mods. He said he would trade it for my current car, 1998 Saab 900 s 2.3 N/A 4 door 5 spd. It has a rebuilt starter and alternator, it has some wear in the drivers seat and some electrical gremlins I think I fixed but we'll see, and has some small surface rust. But the guy with the Talon is getting kids so he has to get rid of his toys and getting a more family friendly vehicle. It has some good things (aftermarket mods), and some bad things.

The Good
-3" exhaust (catback i think, muffler broke off from hitting a train tracks but he still has it)
-Turbo timer (don't really care a lot about it because i'm not a firm believer in them unless someone can convince me)
-recirc BOV (i think that's an oxymoron)
-2.5" intercooler piping
-battery relocated to the trunk
-handheld data logger and is "chipped" (not DSMLink, because DSMLink isn't handheld. :(
-boost gauge
-a/f ratio meter
-manual boost controller
-aftermarket clutch
-what looked to be aftermarket speakers

The Bad
-headliner is removed
-front bumper has a bit removed from the "splitter" part still pretty much intact but...
-clear is chipping off
-no A/C
-he said it runs lean (I don't know how lean, but it's probably from all the intake parts but no fuel parts?)
-and there's an interior panel pulled off by where the ecu is located? Located in passenger footwell i think.
-Radio removed
-needs alternator

Okay, to the fruit of the question. With all of these +'s and -'s should I do the trade or not? No trolling please. Also I got about a grand into the Saab.
 
No matter what anyone says, it's up to you man. Personally, I'd take the Talon. Maybe ask the dude what kind of chip it is, and see why it's running lean. Or you could just see if he still has all his stock stuff and you could try and put it back to stock and then build it yourself so you know exactly what's going on.

Just my two cents.
 
I did and he didn't know. the handheld tuner looked kinda old school. But I really don't think he has much for it. But do you think what I was saying was true about too much intake parts but no gas parts?
 
That I am not sure about. Someone more knowledgable than me will have to answer that. But if that is the case, then I would throw in a Walbro 255 fuel pump and see if that helps. You can usually pick one up for pretty cheap and it's a fairly simple install.

Another reason for running lean could be that he turned up the boost without supporting mods or a good tune. Again, someone else should definitely correct me if I'm wrong. As you can see, I'm a newbie as well.
 
Well it depends on what your intentions are. Race car or daily driver or a mixture of both? If it will be your primary mode of transportation, I would not bother as it sounds like the DSM will need some work. However, if you are dead set on trading, get the car running and driving before you do it. 99% of the time 'needs alternator' or something minor that makes the car undrivable usually resorts into more severe issues that the seller is trying to hide. You have to think why he wouldn't just replace something as easy as an alternator to get the car running.

As far as the lean issue, it can be a number of things. First thing I would do is identify injectors, turbo, fuel pump as well as other aftermarket mods and go from there.

Also you can rent a compression tester and do a test on the spot. A good motor and trans is key as anything else is fairly easy to do with some mechanical skill and research. Good luck.
 
Turbo timers are helpful for people in a rush. It's bad to run the car into the boost without letting the oil cool. Over 55 is what the sun visor says, is driving the car hard so you should sit and let the car idle so colder oil enters the turbo and that the turbo cools down a bit. And recirculated bov is how these cars came from factory. Some say it helps keep the turbo spooled, while I'm kinda iffy on it. That's my knowledge so far.....should be spot on unless someone says otherwise.
 
Well, i'm kinda planning on it being both, that's why it's nice it comes with an extra engine.The guy is selling it because he's getting kids and that's why he wants my car, because it's more practical. He sent me a video of it running after his friend just jump started it from his car. But when the morning comes around i'll ask about the fuel system.
 
Forgot to say let the engine cool for a minute. It's not much time, but people in a rush can get a lot of walking/running distance done in a minute. Depending on the timer it might have different setting. Like the hks turbo timer usually does 1min, but will do longer if you were racing. Can't believe I left all this out. >D<
 
In my personal experience, a Talon can never be a daily driver AND a street/race car. I'd def get the Talon but only if you have another daily driver. It sounds like the only negatives are cosmetic things which if you're not too worried about, just replace the alternator to get her running and have her tuned.
 
I predict you will get burned man. If it sounds too good to be true, it always is. Its a gamble for sure. Cant you find one with problems in your own area of the us? Seems like a forever drive to get a clunker.
 
I'm going to steer away from it. One reason was because the car I was going to trade him decided to explode a belt tensioner. So another on btes the dust I guess. :idontknow:
 
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