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1G Rear CV-Axle Install help

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Flavoade

10+ Year Contributor
64
18
Apr 1, 2012
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Hey Guys,

I am replacing the passenger side rear CV-Axle on my 4-bolt rear-end. I popped the axle out easily with a pry-bar. I replaced the seal, and went to install the new axle. It is a Surtrack brand I got from Rockauto. It was the only place I could get axles, and they are new. I measured the length, width, counted the splines, checked the ring, and lubed it with grease. I can slide the axle into the diff, and even seat the splines but I cannot get it snap/lock inside the diff. I have tried turning it, prying, and even used a rubber mallet but it refuses. I tried to install the original axle and its doing the same thing.

I have done the front passenger side already and it was pretty simple.

Any help appreciated
 
I removed the lock ring and installed the axle to see if it would go all the way in and it did. I put the ring back on and it refuses to go in. I asked my mechanic and he told me some sort of ring inside the diff is screwed up.

Any ideas?
 
Did you try positioning the circlip opening straight up or down? Shouldn't make any difference but some claim it did. You also need to give it a good jerk shove once it's lined up without any hammer/mallet.
 
Yep just keep shoving, for me doing pass from, circlip position DID matter, mallet on inner cup, careful not to bust boot. In and out, change circlip position every time, it'll click and stay eventually, really nothing else to do besides attemp after attemp
 
Did you try positioning the circlip opening straight up or down? Shouldn't make any difference but some claim it did. You also need to give it a good jerk shove once it's lined up without any hammer/mallet.
My mechanic told me to play with the circlip, but it has not worked yet. I don't think I am getting enough forward thrust to get it in. I might be pushing from an angle

Yep just keep shoving, for me doing pass from, circlip position DID matter, mallet on inner cup, careful not to bust boot. In and out, change circlip position every time, it'll click and stay eventually, really nothing else to do besides attemp after attemp
I will keep trying. I dont have a choice now.

I took a peek inside the cavity and rotated the diff with the opposite wheel and I did not see any part that looked damaged. The concave outer ring that compresses the circlip looked good. I will try and give myself more room do more tries.
 
Obviously there is dif fluid remnants, but toss very minimal anti seize or grease on circlip? I even compressed my clip every so slightly, be sure and stick the prybar back under cup and make sure its wont pop out.
 
Get it lined up, and in as far as it will go. Then, position the inner cup so it's going in perfectly straight, compress the entire cv so there is no play, and tap the outer axle flange a few times with a mallet, or dead blow hammer. The inner cup must be aligned perfectly when you try, or you can bend the clip.


You can also hold the inner cup in the diff with one hand, and the axle shaft in the other and tap in in with the axle. if you do it this way, be very careful not to pull on the boot to hard on the back swing.
It sounds like you may have already done some damage to the wire clip.
 
Covering the circlip with oil may also help. And does it have enough small section missing so it can compress fully when installed? Squeeze it with your fingers to see.
 
Last edited:
Get it lined up, and in as far as it will go. Then, position the inner cup so it's going in perfectly straight, compress the entire cv so there is no play, and tap the outer axle flange a few times with a mallet, or dead blow hammer. The inner cup must be aligned perfectly when you try, or you can bend the clip.

You can also hold the inner cup in the diff with one hand, and the axle shaft in the other and tap in in with the axle. if you do it this way, be very careful not to pull on the boot to hard on the back swing.
It sounds like you may have already done some damage to the wire clip.

Covering the circlip with oil may also help. And does it have enough small section missing so it can compress fully when installed? Squeeze it with your fingers to see.

I GOT IT IN!!

My Dad and I used a two feet long 2x4 and wrapped a thick shop towel around the end. I inserted the axle and he placed the board on the edge of the boot right behind the cup. He hit it a few times but the axle would move in about 1/8 inch and then bounce out. I grabbed the axle and rotated it about 130* and noticed as I turned the axle it began to spin more freely, almost like it became lighter. Dad hit the board and the axle would move in about 1/2 inch with each hit and then it went all the way in and locked in place.

I was hoping I would not have to do it that way, but it worked. I tried moving the circlip around but it did not help. I took the circlip off the old axle as it was made out of a different material than the new clip, but it still did not help. I am not sure why the circlip would not simply compress and slide in like the front axle did. My rear diff chatters and grinds so whatever is damaged inside may have caused my grief. I tried pinching the circlip but it made no difference.

I intend to have the rear-diff rebuilt in the future. I am just glad this over... for now.

Thanks for the help guys and wisemen. I will not forget this!
 
Glad you got this figured out, my rear axles were cake walk on my Spyder (Yes I have rear axles, It's AWD :D)

I did how ever have issues with my previous 2g with the end seizing into the hubs, that was expensive :(
 
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