enriquez2000
Proven Member
- 2,269
- 810
- Oct 5, 2014
-
fort collins,
Colorado
are there any tricks or problems that I should be aware of when changing my brakes and rotors this next weekend. My Honda had all kinds of funky issues when I did it
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I've done this job a few times never really ran into any issues. I usually just use a piece of wire or a zip tie to hold the caliper while changing the rotor out.bthat's about it though. Makes things a little easier. Nothing too complicated about it. Oh and if the hardware on the bracket isn't terrible I'd reuse those. They can be a pain.
I have a trusty coat hanger... just wan5ed to make sure there is nothing unexpected. The 95 accord front rotors are under the hub and its a pita
I just went through this with the race brakes on my Honda. they were seizing up on me after driving because the pads were too tight in the caliper bracket. I had to file off all four corners so the pads went in and out smoothly. there should always be the tiniest little bit of slop in the pad and caliperstoo add to this, i have reman'd calipers, so let's call them new, as well as new rotors, new pads, and the pads come with hardware. the hardware is the little clips that first attach to the pad cradle. I must have gotten a bad run of either pads, clips, or both, because the pads have these little "ears" that slide into the clips.
I had to sand down these ears so the pads could move in/out. IE so they could be pushed into the rotor to stop during normal braking, and retract away from the rotor once you let off. the ears on mine were just a little too big, so once pushed down onto the rotor, they just stayed there. So before you finish up, but after you bleed the caliper, make sure that wheel spins freely before you move on to the next one.
So in short, the pads should kinda easily slide into the clips, but be snug once they're in. They shouldn't have to be jammed or hammered in there or you'll have to sand down the ears a little like i did.
Ive had good luck with powerstop kitsDon't buy rotors made in China! They use poor quality steel that warps with heat (USA or Canada is good however).
good idea... could always use a tighter Ebrake for brake boostingWhen you're doing the back ones, you may as well adjust the e-brake. There's an access port on the rotor and you can stick a screw driver in there to tighten or loosen the drum by turning the adjustment wheel.