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jaros 44sr

Probationary Member
11
0
May 3, 2015
north wales, Pennsylvania
just thought i would stop by, and introduce myself to the members here. i am in the process of restoring a 1972 GMC Jimmy, not frame off, but just about everything, but separating the frame and chassis. Im using a FI from a 1985 corvette TPI with a Fast ecu. My problem is that my dd just took a dump, which was a 1995 eclipse gsx. clutch went, second one. car has 210,000 miles on it, plus rearend is screaming. Therein lays the problem, do I fix it our sell for parts, i really love this car as it is fast and nimble to drive on back country roads. i honestly don t want to get rid of it, as it is just a blast to drive! but, space is at a premium on my property, so what to do
 
I would say it the body is in good shape, and the motor runs strong fix it. Parts for the car are all over the place to fix it and you have a gsx they are becoming very hard to find now adays.
 
I would say it the body is in good shape, and the motor runs strong fix it. Parts for the car are all over the place to fix it and you have a gsx they are becoming very hard to find now adays.

That is some of the problem, rust under rear hatch, drivers side door. What would a j spec engine cost?
 
The stock motor can be rebuilt for a decent price. If you are wanting the motor built more then that it then comes down to what you want. Though the stock motor is capable of around 400 hp itself with the right upgrades.
 
The stock motor can be rebuilt for a decent price. If you are wanting the motor built more then that it then comes down to what you want. Though the stock motor is capable of around 400 hp itself with the right upgrades.
interesting, thought it would be cheaper to buy a motor, thank you, guess i better keep reading
 
sorry to confuse you, but just thought it would be a good time to switch the motor since it has 210,000 miles on the clock
 
My recommendation would to be fix your current problems with the car and either rebuild the motor in it or find another motor to rebuild if you are wanting something more then stock.
 
Don't worry about j spec engines at all. Don't worry about them. Get a better clutch setup (act, competition, southbend) put it in. Rip out your rear end and service it or replace it with another 2g rear end. Change your tranny and tcase fluids with redline mtl and mt90 along with redline heavy shockproof. If you feel the need to do your engine for a fresh build, 1.) Buy oem pistons with new bearings etc etc. 2.) Find a used 6 bolt engine and swap it in after it's been checked over to asses the parts 3.) Go to extremepsi.com drop $735 plus shipping on their forged package deal and then get all the other hardware at the sametime. It's not hard to keep these cars running so make sure to keep it running. just make sure you do all the maintenance on her.

Best of luck
 
Don't worry about j spec engines at all. Don't worry about them. Get a better clutch setup (act, competition, southbend) put it in. Rip out your rear end and service it or replace it with another 2g rear end. Change your tranny and tcase fluids with redline mtl and mt90 along with redline heavy shockproof. If you feel the need to do your enge for a fresh build, 1.) Buy oem pistons with new bearings etc etc. 2.) Find a used 6 bolt engine and swap it in after it's been checked over to asses the parts 3.) Go to extremepsi.com drop $735 plus shipping on their forged package deal and then get all the other hardware at the sametime. It's not hard to keep these cars running so make sure to keep it running. just make sure you do all the maintenance on her.

Best of luck
 
thank you for being so specific, sounds like a plan, how can you determine if an engine is a 6 bolt.....and can a 4 bolt engine be converted to a 6 bolt

one other question, my car seems to surge going around tight(like a indoor parking lot) corners, but just in the rear. Any ideas what can cause this?
 
thanks for the link, sage advice, ill keep that in mind
 
Oil pan. 7 bolt is curved, 6 bolt is flat. Also not sure any dsm that's a 4 bolt. I know they have came with 3 and 4 bolt rear ends but only 6 or 7 bolt engines. Only way to convert is a swap. And it maybe a welded center diff. does it suck in all tight turning areas? Like you chirp tire in a drive thru?
 
Oil pan. 7 bolt is curved, 6 bolt is flat. Also not sure any dsm that's a 4 bolt. I know they have came with 3 and 4 bolt rear ends but only 6 or 7 bolt engines. Only way to convert is a swap. And it maybe a welded center diff. does it suck in all tight turning areas? Like you chirp tire in a drive thru?
thank you for your time, and yes it lurches on all tight turns
 
to my knowledge, no it would not be. Are you first owner an or known every owner of your car? They could of had it welded or maybe broke something an in turn got a welded piece. Can't tell by looking at it unless you crack open the shells of everything to inspect for welds. Only other thought would be something is seized up pretty good but then I believe it'd mess with everything while driving straight
 
to my knowledge, no it would not be. Are you first owner an or known every owner of your car? They could of had it welded or maybe broke something an in turn got a welded piece. Can't tell by looking at it unless you crack open the shells of everything to inspect for welds. Only other thought would be something is seized up pretty good but then I believe it'd mess with everything while driving straight

thanks for the input, I am the first owner, never welded. how about transfer case, any known issues after 200,000 miles
 
They had a warranty on the yoke for it but jnztuning.com has the rebuild kit for the yoke I believe. If anything could send it out for some tlc to tmzperformance, shep (gotta call them to find out), Jack's, team rip (tre transmission). Don't know prices but those are the shops you'd hear to use from others
 
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