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Little Eagle

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I didn't do crap today...however I did place my VC on top of the bare head just to see how it's gonna look. Now I'm stuck between paint matching the VC to my car's color(Kona Blue), or repainting it the stock colors that you see here. It'll just be a stock, boring engine bay for now so I'm tempted to go with repainting it the stock color for now. Input?

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Just curious about the rebuild kit and the borg clutches. Was there a specific reason or did price drive that decision? In the past, I used the alto and koleen with tremendous success. Their kits are reasonably priced and come with the band also.
Oh, what stall did you decide on and why? Did you get the center differential welded? I'm still on the fence about the center differential welding on my build.
Looking good on the build. Now clean those carpets!
 
Just curious about the rebuild kit and the borg clutches. Was there a specific reason or did price drive that decision? In the past, I used the alto and koleen with tremendous success. Their kits are reasonably priced and come with the band also.
Oh, what stall did you decide on and why? Did you get the center differential welded? I'm still on the fence about the center differential welding on my build.
Looking good on the build. Now clean those carpets!

The Kiggly 5 disk front clutch, is just a borg warner clutch repackaged, that and the price was very fair from RockAuto I couldn't pass it up. I also chose to not weld the center diff because of the chatter and street manners. This is my street comfy car first and foremost, but if I need it I have a spare that I can get welded. As far as converter I went with an IPT 3600RPM unit. :)


Aaaannnnnddd here is my planetary.


Ouch. That's just crazy.

Looking good! Is that the OEM 4g64 composite gasket?

Yes sir it is and thank you!. :) Came from a member here and his HG issues on his 4G64 that he solved with a felpro composite 4G64 so I decided to go with it. IF it sucks or blows, it's easy to yank the head off and go '63 gasket.

Looking good Cory! What's the time frame when you think it will be done? We need to do some cruising this summer!



Thanks man! I'm lacking just a few parts or I could get it running ASAP. I still need a 2G manifold, 2G 02 housing, and a 1G BOV and from there it's just a matter of me not being lazy and getting her running.
 
Felpro makes a 4g64 dohc gasket? Have a part number? I'm pulling my head today to replace a cometic MLS 87mm. Have a felpro 4g63 composite on the shelf already to use; it's slightly bigger than my 87mm bore.
 
Did some work today. It took forever to fix the mongoloid previous owner's mistakes and screw ups with the door handles, not to mention fighting with cheap eGay door handles as well, so today I'm pleased to report now that you can finally open both doors...WITH the outside door handles!! For the record, Dorman door handles > eBay door handles. They are indeed different! Proof for the drivers side opening action.




And since the ol' bird is getting dirty, I gave it a solid wash. :) Can't wait to drive this beast.

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Felpro makes a 4g64 dohc gasket? Have a part number? I'm pulling my head today to replace a cometic MLS 87mm. Have a felpro 4g63 composite on the shelf already to use; it's slightly bigger than my 87mm bore.


Felpro makes a DOHC 4G64 gasket, I can't remember the part number but you can find it on RockAuto. This is just your average SOHC 4G64 gasket, but the holes that need to be open are open, and the blocked holes are no worry. I got it off of RockAuto for like $20 shipped. Lol. It was on a special though. My '63 gasket had an 87mm bore so it just....just barely covered the "slope" of the bore. It PROBABLY would've been okay, but this gasket clears the bore entirely including the slope, so that makes me feel better.
 
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Doors open sooner than most. Good stuff! I ended up getting the same effect with a nut/bolt through the opening in the metal rod/lever arm to create the same effect.



Thanks. :) That's pretty much exactly what I did, but it was a very...very small one. These Dorman HELP! handles are really..really impressive tbh. They feel and move solid like OEM units, and the tabs are thick as hell. It was very...very close to the stock handle's location so it only needed a very minor spacing for it to open like video'd above.



Didn't do anything today except the IPT Converter came in. Yaaaay! Hilariously enough I guess it was so heavy, they dropped it off in a US Mail bin. :p I'm keeping this bad boy, it's pretty damn sturdy.

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My cat was obviously impressed at the quality of said post office mail bin.
 
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Took a trip to Mr. BogusSVO's shop today, and picked up a few parts I needed off of him. Had a nice little experience where the battery in my daily died, and got to see him work his magic first hand and bug him to death. So that was nice.


Also, got some parts in from Miller Import Parts that I desperately needed. Front/fluid pump for the transmission. Got a few other goodies from him that I'm very happy with, over all very well recommended. Don't be afraid to talk to @Stangmurdera and he'll hook you up!


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Also, now my parts pile is getting respectable. Haha. There's a lot more in the closet too.

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Now I've got all of it here though, so it's time to assemble it! Stay tuned for assembly pics of the transmission soon as it decides to stop pissing rain.
 
Great stuff today. I don't have picture of the actual process, but I went through and R&R'ed the transmission today, and installed the new fluid pump I got from Miller. Thing looked great, truly, and I'm just hoping and praying I assembled everything correctly. ROFL


Obligatory pictures as follows. Hashtags and filters not included. :p

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Gotta love this big blue booty.

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Before picture(all dirty and blurry. The humanity!)

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After!
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The hard part is now done. From here on it's just your typical DSM'er stuff. Assemble the longblock, time it, slap it in, break it in, hurt feelings. I ordered the proper DOHC 4G64 headgasket from JNZ Tuning, and as soon as it's here(special order...ouch), I'll post pictures of the timed/assembled motor and it sitting purty in ol' Buzzkill. For now, appreciate this picture of the ol' dirty bird on the ground.

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Stay tuned! The good stuff is coming soon now that all that PITA stuff was done.
 
Got the head gasket I needed from JNZ Tuning. The only difference between the SOHC and DOHC 4G64 headgaskets are the two oiling holes on the exhaust side of the motor. Literally every other hole the head and block needs is the same. I briefly debated just running the SOHC gasket and going, and in the future I absolutely would not hesitate to use the SOHC 4G64 gasket and just maybe drilling the two oiling holes out for it, but since I spent $60 for the proper DOHC 4G64 headgasket from JNZ Tuning, I'm gonna go ahead and change it out. OEM goodness below!

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:D :p So hopefully here soon we'll see the dirty bird running and driving!
 
Did some WORK today man. It may not seem like much but I am going through and cleaning everything before I put it on. The timing components are all new, but the motor mount bracket, tensioner arm, bolts, etc are all soaked in degreaser and hand-cleaned before being put back on. With that said...pics to follow!!


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Ah the glamorous life of bleeding brand new lifters. The metric ton of diesel fluid/WD40 stuff that came out is like man-moisturizer for the hands.

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Aren't they purty. All bled and ready to go in! 3mm "revised" lifters. :)

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Last pic is a little bit of a spoiler on the t-belt install, but it just looked so clean. I had to hand polish and clean those freakin' cams btw. Hell of a workout if you need to improve your forearm and hand muscles! Just polish camshafts! :p


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Aaaaand she's assembled, ladies and gentlemen. It is now officially a longblock! :D ;) :p

Side shot below!

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From here on out, it'll be pictures of putting this V8/Honda/Hater buzz kill machine into ol' project buzzkill. Then first start up/cruising videos to follow that!! Getting excited now. Cue the picture of the dancing banana!
 
Great looking build! building a forged short block as well soon.
 
This came in the mail today. It was cheap as heck, and got good reviews. So I'm curious as to how it'll work out. The instructions that came with it sounded like they were written by a DSM'er or someone well versed in MBC/turbo cars, so that was fairly impressive. The diagram featured a 1G BOV. :p

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Great looking build! building a forged short block as well soon.


:) Thank you buddy. I do definitely love my forged 2.4L long rod! :D
 
Not a whole lot to update with today, I basically just cleaned, prepped, and painted everything in anticipation of installing the motor and firing it up this weekend. However I did paint this!


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Hand painted by me. I really...really like how this thing turned out. It's only temporary until I get a decent powdercoated VC but I really think it looks great. If you want a before picture, its in this thread. Same VC. Just time and a $7.50 paint can!


Also, painted the oil pan a color that's easier to see oil leaks.

Before!
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After! (times two)

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Stay tuned for more pictures and a start vid!
 
Interesting day today. I went to put the motor in and finish assembly at the shop and found a few things out that I couldn't find an answer to ANYWHERE. So hopefully this will help future 4G64 swap guys in the future to know this.

1) The oil pan for a 7 bolt is slightly different than the 4G64's oil pan, and leaves a gap and roughly 6 bolt holes on the pan, unused. You can re-drill holes in a spot or two to help, but the others you are SOL unless you do what I did. I'll list my fix below.

2) The windage tray for a 2.0L is also slightly different than a 2.4'S and requires reaming out the bolt holes, and actually cutting part of it to fit inside the pan.

3) If you are using ARP Main studs on your 4G64 block, and trying to use a 4G63 oil pan, you're going to run into clearance problems. On the TORQUE CONVERTER side of the oil pan, the two bolts that bolt the pan onto the rear main seal cover, need to be 'massaged' with a hammer on the inside of the pan or none of the bolt holes will line up. Just massage it little by little and it'll be fine.

4) The timing cover for an early 95 7 bolt is different and needs to be modified or it'll rub the timing belt if you can even get the bolt holes to line up.


Here's the problem. There's roughly an inch between the bolt holes in the pan, and the actual block. There's also roughly a 1/4"-1/3" gap between the pan and the block vertically that would allow oil and such to POUR out. You could probably just put a glob of RTV on it, but I don't do it that way.

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If you look carefully at the picture below, you can see the 1/4" gap.

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Here's the block itself. The oil pan is supposed to just go straight across this gap. You can see the issue.

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And here's my fix. I measured a template out, and cut it out of 1/8" galvanized steel. RTV one side and clamp it down until it cure, and it leaves a perfect ledge to RTV the pan on, with no worry about leaks at all!! Easy, cheap fix, but I wish I could've found this information before doing this as it pissed me off pretty bad because I couldn't find ANY info about it. Pictures of the modifications to the windage tray and front cover to come later, as I'm done for today.

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Tags: 4G64 oil pan problem, 4G63 oil pan on a 4G64, 2.0L oil pan on 2.4, etc.
 
Are you going to bang out the bid dents in the bottom of oil pan? Those look deep enough that they could interfere with the oil pick up.

FYI: My 7 bolt 4g63t pan fits my 7bolt 4g64 perfectly, including the ARP mains.
 
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