Clutch pedal adjustment twin disk

tsiawd98 · May 2, 2015

Hey guys, I have been searching for any good information on how to adjust the clutch pedal for proper travel on my new quarter master twin disk? I just keep finding results that people adjusted them with no instructions on how they did it. I don't know if I am over thinking this or what? I do know that on a twin you do not want to over throw the clutch fork and eventually wear out your pressure plate fingers on the clutch. And also I read about a clutch pedal stop. I can't find any good info on how to properly adjust everything. The instructions that came with the clutch were limited about this aspect of the install. I got a competition clutch fork assy. with a new oem throwout bearing. And it looks to be within spec. its not past the halfway point. I will buy a new slave cylinder today. and would like to get this thing done soon. the car has already been sitting on jacks for over a year.

My old setup was the ACT 2600 with a street disk and fidanza flywheel. If anyone else has installed a twin and can walk me through this, it would be awesome!!

jakelandry · May 2, 2015

The engagement window on them is very small so you have two options. You either create your own stop to keep the clutch from over extending or spin the masters adjustment rod all the way in till the clutch is right on the floor. The stop is definitely the better option cause you can keep the sprung consistency you get from having the adjustment rod set correctly, eg. It feels less spongey. When you adjust the rod all the way in you get a slightly more unpredictable pedal feel because it is now at the top of its springback threshold for lack of a better term. Also having the master rod all the way in brings the cylinder outside of its bleed back threshold which means you may experience pedal "pump-up" which will cause the clutch to slip. A way around this is to put washers in between either the master or slave and their mounting points to allow you to adjust the masters rod out a little more and hopefully past the "pump up" area. I'm currently messing with my setup because I'm too lazy to put a stop in. You'll know if the clutch slips. On these twin disks at 6k rpm it's a violent jolt rather than a free rev you'll get with most clutches.

bastarddsm · May 2, 2015

On a 1g if you run a 2g slave the throw for a 2600 was about perfect. I would reccomend the pedal stop over dropping the pedal, as that gives a funky feel. As far as the travel mine had 1.5-2" of travel past the engagement point. In hindsight I would do it differently. Qm tilton and ptt reccomend about .170" of max tob travel. The fork has a 1.5:1 ratio so I'd measure the slave travel and not let it excede .250 or so.

bastarddsm · May 2, 2015

The qm and ptt actually has an internal stop in the pp, so of the pedal suddenly gets very hard, you've gone to far.

lil corb · May 6, 2015

bastarddsm said:
The qm and ptt actually has an internal stop in the pp, so of the pedal suddenly gets very hard, you've gone to far.

Is that new? Back in 2010 when I overextended my QM and had Tim fix my brand new input shaft on my brand new stage 3 shep trans that would of nice to have... smh LOL

bastarddsm · May 7, 2015

I don't thing so, but you could certainly push pays it if you were careful.

tsiawd98 · Jun 8, 2015

I drilled a clutch pedal stop into the pedal. and am now wondering if I should adjust the clutch master cylinder rod like how Jacks transmission shows it on his video? also If I do it like this then do I adjust the pedal stop till I can put the car in gear with the engine running? I ask because I do not want to over extend the pressure plate.

gsx4g64 · Jun 20, 2017

tsiawd98 said:
I drilled a clutch pedal stop into the pedal. and am now wondering if I should adjust the clutch master cylinder rod like how Jacks transmission shows it on his video? also If I do it like this then do I adjust the pedal stop till I can put the car in gear with the engine running? I ask because I do not want to over extend the pressure plate.

Did you ever resolve this problem?

tsiawd98 · Jun 20, 2017

I did fix this problem, after searching for a few days I found this installation guide for the ACT twin disk for our DSM's. I followed step 13 of the instructions accordingly. Even though I bought the Quater Master twin disk, and that came with a set of instructions of it's own, it was a bit muddy for me. There is a guy in my neighborhood with a EVO 8 that has been running twin disks on his car for years. After I did all the adjustments on the clutch I drove the car to him, and he test drove it and signed off on it. it shifts perfectly with no issues. When I did the adjustment I had a friend in the car with the engine off in 1st gear with clutch depressed, while I pushed it. If the car did not want to move, I took a little more out of the pedal stop at a time till I got the car engaging into 1st gear and rolling smoothly with the clutch pushed in. After that was accomplished I started the car and wanted to see if it then would go into 1st gear without grinding. Everything worked out fine. I also measured the clutch fork "throw" and made sure it does not go more than halfway of it's travel while disengaging from the engine. I did bring in the rod all the way into the pedal and tightned the jamnut. However since I made my own pedal stop into the clutch pedal, I adjusted the pedal stop, and not the rod to disengage the clutch. If I did not make sense here just hit me up and I will walk you through it. Good luck!

gsx4g64 · Jul 4, 2017

tsiawd98 said:
I did fix this problem, after searching for a few days I found this installation guide for the ACT twin disk for our DSM's. I followed step 13 of the instructions accordingly. Even though I bought the Quater Master twin disk, and that came with a set of instructions of it's own, it was a bit muddy for me. There is a guy in my neighborhood with a EVO 8 that has been running twin disks on his car for years. After I did all the adjustments on the clutch I drove the car to him, and he test drove it and signed off on it. it shifts perfectly with no issues. When I did the adjustment I had a friend in the car with the engine off in 1st gear with clutch depressed, while I pushed it. If the car did not want to move, I took a little more out of the pedal stop at a time till I got the car engaging into 1st gear and rolling smoothly with the clutch pushed in. After that was accomplished I started the car and wanted to see if it then would go into 1st gear without grinding. Everything worked out fine. I also measured the clutch fork "throw" and made sure it does not go more than halfway of it's travel while disengaging from the engine. I did bring in the rod all the way into the pedal and tightned the jamnut. However since I made my own pedal stop into the clutch pedal, I adjusted the pedal stop, and not the rod to disengage the clutch. If I did not make sense here just hit me up and I will walk you through it. Good luck!

Do you happen to have a photo of your pedal stop? That would be helpful.

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Clutch pedal adjustment twin disk

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