I plan on plastidipping my Tsi matte black until I can afford a decent paint job. For anyone who has dipped their car, what is the best method for headlights and window trim? Spraying over and peeling, or taping off? Do you peel off the dip from the moldings, or keep them dipped and just peel off the windows? Also, my black roof is in good shape still, just the red body clear coat is shot. Opinions on whether or not I should keep the roof gloss black, with a matte body, or all matte?

Depends on the amount of coats. If you don't want to mask off, make sure you put that dip on heavy. Its the biggest PITA to peel that stuff off if its not thick. I've never done a car but I have done the wheels. Did about 4 coats of black per wheel and a year later couldn't peel it off. Personally Id just take the time to tape off, less clean up. And Id say matte all around.

Heat over time makes it harder to peel as well. Reason the wheels can be tough sometimes. I would do the whole thing matte black. The 2 tone gloss and matte black can be cool but you can always peel the roof when you want and have that as well.

I'd tape off the windows and any little grill or small opening. (hole in the fog light cover so it doesn't go in the middle) screw holes on the reverse light, and stuff like that.

Tape off large areas that will only get over spray on it will keep you from wasting dip to cover it completely just to peel it off.

Make sure if you tape you run over all seems lightly with a sharp razor blade will Lessen the chance of unwanted peeling off of plastic dip because it stuck to your tape.

From experience its easier just buying a newspaper and a roll of masking tape and covering everything with it. Also, I would do it inside, in stagnant air. Treat it like a real paint job. I painted my car in black plastidip with the same idea you had and in all honesty I should have just gotten the sander and just primered it. Its gonna look the same if you just use the dip with no gloss and if you have plans for a real paint job down the road then thats just one step down.

I would tape off. I honestly hate peeling. Especially if you don't spray thick enough. Also, check dipyourcar.com . They have some cool colors. And I've seen people mix the colors with the glossifer to get a glossy finish.

Tape off, what ever you peel, water get's under and peels more for you!
It's a PITA to get off rubbers fyi!
Best to use plastidip remover on rubber surfaces.


Wash your car very well, and dry it even better! Do a light coat of plastidip to really grab on as a first coat then get thicker and thicker as you go, but don't make it run!

Always try on junk stuff before painting your car!

rough said:

Tape off, what ever you peel, water get's under and peels more for you!
It's a PITA to get off rubbers fyi!
Best to use plastidip remover on rubber surfaces.


Wash your car very well, and dry it even better! Do a light coat of plastidip to really grab on as a first coat then get thicker and thicker as you go, but don't make it run!

Always try on junk stuff before painting your car!

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+1 to the rubbers. Getting plastidip off tires off tires is a nightmare. Even when sprayed on thick.

I've seen youtube video's where plasti dip came off rubber tires just fine, hmm. There are other advantages to dip than just primering a car. First, primer isn't meant to face elements. Water will leave spots. heat will make it rub on all your clothes. etc etc. Plasti dip will actually protect the car from the elements and last 3+ years until you are ready to paint. Heat nor snow has not been show to change the difficulty in peeling plasti dip. It resists paint chips and is easy to maintain. I'm just a fan of the stuff. I say do it!

can you plasti dip over a peeling clearcoat or should it be sanded down before? thanks

91AwdBigRed said:

can you plasti dip over a peeling clearcoat or should it be sanded down before? thanks

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Depending how bad it is, it may be fine. I would recommend a light sand, however.

Pass your hand over the clear coat. If you can feel the cracks it show on plastic dip unless you filling it with more layes of dip that goes for deep scratches. Sand it smooth go light first two coats then heavy on the others it helps from getting drips. Mask off windows or areas you dont want over spray on. Its harder removing overspray since you can't peel you got to rub it off. If it got alot of coats then is easier since you can peel it.

Newspaper and tape off the head lights, taillights, and windows. There is prep work like cleaning the paint 1st with alcohol before dipping,do at least 3 coats so it is easier to peel when your take it off. Plasti dlyip says it will last for 2 years it is easy to repair with thinner and apply new coats again in that general area. If you get stumped or have any questions call them or look at there web site at DipYourCar.com Fonzi's videos are very helpful good luck and can't wait to see the pics.

Thanks for the advice guys. My clearcoat is very bad so most likely I'll just do the prep work and get a real paint job.


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That's best. some people say plasti dip has a bad side effect after a while

I sprayed a spot on my urethane bumper that spider webbed from a run in with a raccoon, peeled it off a month later and it took away only the spots where the cracks in the paint were. Like everyone is saying I wouldn't do long term.

I think prepping is the biggest thing to look out for. I've dipped my car, sprockets for my motorcycle and dirtbike, plus more. Just take the time and mask off what you don't want dipped and you will appreciate the end result much better, Plasti dip amazed me especially with the durability on my bike. The chain ripped off the dip from the teeth but it held on super strong.

In my opinion I would keep the roof and tape off the window trim and lights or take them off. You will be surprised how much dip you actually save and I'd rather mask then have to go over headlights then peel them. It's really just up to you but I think it will turn out good.

Not having a sharp edge when painting is ideal for plastidipping, You want to get this paint over those sharp flat surfaces, going over and around to the back. The plastidip sticks pretty well, but edges will peel if you don't paint over and on the backside of the edges.

Any edge facing up toward the sky is prone to water seeping down into the smallest gap and pulling the dip back.

My peels so far, are on my doors and small back windows where the molding meets the body facing the sky. Places the dip could not be sprayed around and behind on.

Ditto on the putting it on heavy, make sure not to pass over hard to reach places like undersides of doors, bumpers etc.. I tried peeling mine back off a truck to give it a color change and sprayed the dip way to thin under there, had to all but sand it off after hours of defeat.

Good luck getting it dipped, I am thinking dipping my 95 tsi this color. https://www.dipyourcar.com/Blue-Martian-Pearls.html

I have done this on a few cars, tape everything off and cover large areas with paper. You will regret not taping it off as it will take you forever to peel it off. And then you won't get it all. Take your time and it can look great, and use plasti dip glossifier at the end.

Do not plasti dip over peeling clear coat. I've done this on my rear hatch spoiler and within a week the clear coat started peeling away leaving the plasti dip paint job useless, I also used 4-5 coats. And if you are going to do a full car plasti dip job make sure you get a spray gun kit don't use cans. If you use cans you are going to have noticable lines and streaks no matter how good you are.

Also if you mask off which I recommend do not just peel the tape off use a razor and cut a line down the edge of the tape then peel it off, if you don't you will peel/pull up some of the plasti dip on the car.