Take it to any shop where they can power bleed it. Shouldn't cost much, most good places would do it for free if you talk to them right

try doing it with someone pushing the clutch as you bleed, so much easier

Did you try a bleeder vaccume pump?

A little late but if you haven't already figured it out, go and get you a bleeder cup for under 10 bucks:

http://www.sears.com/lisle-brake-bleeder/p-00947746000P

Basically, hook the line up to the slightly open bleeder, pump making sure the reservoir don't go empty and continue to do so till you no longer see air bubbles in the line connected to the bleeder. Great tool when you're on your own and don't wanna fork out $60+ for the vacuum bleeder.

Did you install an after-market clutch master or slave cylinder before this happened to you?
Might also want to check this thread out too http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oem-vs-aftermarket-clutch-master-and-slave-cylinder.406950/

That means that your line still have air inside, get a helper and bleed it correctly, and at the end leave the clutch pressed, screw slighty open and pour some more fluid to make the flush effect then quickly close it. Works for me all the time.

Turns out that I had it bled fully. It was a broken clutch rod or and throw out herring

Well that's no fun :/

Next time try a halibut.

Speed bleeders work wonders

So confused. Got it all back together. Shimmed the new pivot ball and installed new fork. And it won't go into gear

Have you adjusted the clutch pedal?

Yes all the way in and out

Have it shimmed correctly? http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/clutch/armcentered.jpg

Yes! Shimmed the new one!