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Fp race exhaust manifold or back to 2g?

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eclipse012

eclipse012

15+ Year Contributor
183
10
Apr 17, 2008
canada, AB_Canada
So I got a fp race exhaust manifold on my e316g setup right now. I have made a heat shield out of heater duct, but the problem is it's not doing too much to keep the bay temps down. Where I live its pretty hard to find parts that I will melt unless I order from the states though it does get costly. Basically if I get the fp manifold ceramic coated should it be enough to keep heat back at par? Or should I just port my stock 2g manifold and uses the factory heat shield? I do realize that bigger turbos will produce more heat, but I am still on stock boost and it's getting to hot. I'm leaning more going back to the stock 2g right now. I'm skeptical on how much the ceramic coating really helps since I'm quoted 270 just to do my exhaust manifold I'm guessing it helps a bit in the 20% range if that?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Heater duct? Pics or it didn't happen.

If you're looking for a simple solution that doesn't require bending over for long periods of time trying to figure out how to wrap it, you can get turbo blankets (FP manifold specific too) in Canada from a well known DSM supplier, or buy them out of the states.
 
I'll see if I got a pic and I will upload it later LOL. The Canadian dsm vendor I assume you're talking about is rtm? I'm not a fan of the way turbo blankets or heat tape look. I like clean engine bay looks (yes I know the material i used isn't very pretty). My car is well maintained with new coolant and has been burped. I do run a bit warm do to the ets race fmic I have. My temps average around 195-220F so I will be boxing my fmic to rad soon. I seen that heat shield on extremepsi and was thinking of it. Just not sure if it will work any better to what I have made myself. Maybe someone who has used it can give some feedback?
 
We i have one but not installed it yet but from chatting to him with srap underneath it its not that hot and ive heard someone put their hand on it and was hit but not uncovered hot due to the wrap on the underside. The covers are going to act like the oem cover so apart from your thin ducting jobby this will work alot better
 
People run a similar setup all the time and do not have this problem. Are you sure there is not another issue? I'd look around first rather than band-aid the problem.
 
Put a proper vent in your hood above the exhaust manifold. By that, I mean with a lip in the front that will create a negative pressure area above where the vent actually is. This will draw the hot air out of the engine bay all on it's own. I did this years ago and my under hood temps are just about ambient every time I pop it right after beating the dog snot out of it.
 
Radiation is the problem. Anything line of sight to the manifold will be cooked from that. Ceramic coatings are fairly ineffective unless it is something like Swain Coating which is thick and multi-layered.
I had good success just using the stock manifold kicked up a little, almost like a propped up hood, with a little aluminum splice piece and a mounting bracket to make it rigid. Somewhat a hack but it was clean enough for test/tuning until a clean heat-shield could be fabricated. That worked as good as the stock heat shield, since it was the stock heat shield.

Without that and still being ceramic coated, the radiator took a thermal beating and was pushing my coolant temps up quite a bit. With the heatshield, the difference in power output was significant, not sure if the heat completed soaked the motor but I could feel the bottom/midrange performance come back. The top-end was really good.

I personally like Swain-tech coating as it looks killer.
 
pboglio said:
Radiation is the problem. Anything line of sight to the manifold will be cooked from that. Ceramic coatings are fairly ineffective unless it is something like Swain Coating which is thick and multi-layered.
I had good success just using the stock manifold kicked up a little, almost like a propped up hood, with a little aluminum splice piece and a mounting bracket to make it rigid. Somewhat a hack but it was clean enough for test/tuning until a clean heat-shield could be fabricated. That worked as good as the stock heat shield, since it was the stock heat shield.

Without that and still being ceramic coated, the radiator took a thermal beating and was pushing my coolant temps up quite a bit. With the heatshield, the difference in power output was significant, not sure if the heat completed soaked the motor but I could feel the bottom/midrange performance come back. The top-end was really good.

I personally like Swain-tech coating as it looks killer.
Click to expand...

Yes I do agree with you. I've thought about this for a little while now and I will be going back to my stock 2g exhaust manifold and will be porting it out. I still have the stock upper and lower heat shields (which Imo are still better than any after markets since they cover and wrap around/underneath the manifold and O2 housing) so I figure it will help a huge amount to keep the radiant heat back far better than my custom made one. From what i have searched, a 2g ported manifold is more than sufficient for where a 16g will take me. Not sure if I will sell the fp race manifold yet or not. To get it swain coated is considerable though it's really pricey since I'm in Canada. Maybe in the future.
 
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It's kind of hard to see, but at the very front of the actual opening there is a metal lip that is about 45*. This forces the air to go up when it hits there and it creates a negative pressure area right above the hole in the hood. This wicks away heat directly off the manifold and turbo where the engine bay is hottest. It also allows an easy exit route for hot air coming off the back of the radiator.

There's ricer chicken wire stuff riveted to the hole that's cut out to keep stuff out of the bay. The braces under the hood had to be cut, along with the factory aluminum heat shield that attaches to the hood.

edit: pay no attention to those awesome folding mirrors. :D
 
There are many options that have been mentioned but it does depend on what you want to spend and how much you want to mess with stuff aswell in terms of cutting, stock looking or wild looking etc. What ever you feel is best for you in terms of looks aswell as you must be happy with it after its done to.
 
I went the ceramic coating route. Did my manifold & turbine housing. My manifold runner temps (between the head & turbo inlet) peak around 300*F after beating on it with my 20G. This in during the summer when it hot enough for the sun to back my under hood temps to over 150F just sitting parked out in the lot. This is with a Harbor Freight temp gun and about the same as my other car which is completely stock with the OEM heat shields & a T25.
 
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