crash89 said:

Welded in some gussets in the cage today!!

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Erm thats very dangerous points on a cage is not a good idea. Will people even let you on track with them?

Another stratos im building. Welds are mainly push and the majority are sanded flat due to the request of the the body workers (fiberglass) most are pretty flat but they still say go over them though. Mine is a oerlikon mig set 3 phase, its an.old unit but is what was here when i started working here and it does the job ok so untill it breaks i gotta use it haha.

I would like to start making a custom exhaust mani... I was wondering where would I be able to get an exhaust flange?

Treadstone sells flanges or try jmf fabrications.

ec17pse said:

Erm thats very dangerous points on a cage is not a good idea. Will people even let you on track with them?

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Guess well find out huh!

Yeah guess so. Reminded me of a fence and its pretty decor no offense btw its a good idea just not practical for the track

His cage is so old it has spider webs

Being the car is a spyder, i thought it was neat that itd have web gussets.

Well if it doesn't pass just grind down the mid spike

Most recent welding picks..

Sch40 2" pipe in a fixed 5g position (the overhead side)

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Messing around on some 1/8" stainless

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More messing around with stainless, this time 16g or thinner (freehanding)
Corner joint and t-joint combo

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Some random stuff from lately

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Top mount?

Just found out I have a hook up on a new razorweld 160p dc tig welder! $500 shipped to your door with warranty. I am getting one. Anyone else want one?
160 amps, whoo hoo. More than enough for my stainless work and pulse too. But I don't use that much if at all.

Paul, buy your manifold stuff and stop collecting Tig machines

UrbanSmoker said:

Top mount?

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It's a top mount for a K20 mr2.

Looks amazing man. Can I ask how you put the holes in the collector for the gates? Step drill and a die grinder?

And do you recommend doing the gates before or after the runners

Thanks. I use bi-metal hole saw bits to drill the holes, just use low speed to prevent destroying the bits. I always put the gates on last.

I've destroyed every bit so far one speed drill. I'm in the middle of design and the tacks aren't the prettiest but once I finish this one and make a jig next will go together easier, design is the worst part but I have a lot of respect for manifold builders. My plan is once done to mark every piece break all tacks and re bevel and wire wheel every piece.

I started at 6pm and got this far by 10 including dismantling the car for mockup

^That looks awesome man!

Practicing 2" pipe schedule 80 6g

UrbanSmoker said:

I've destroyed every bit so far one speed drill. I'm in the middle of design and the tacks aren't the prettiest but once I finish this one and make a jig next will go together easier, design is the worst part but I have a lot of respect for manifold builders. My plan is once done to mark every piece break all tacks and re bevel and wire wheel every piece.

I started at 6pm and got this far by 10 including dismantling the car for mockup

Click to expand...

The design is the fun part, I remember making my manifold for my colt, boy that was tough, but I loved every minute of it

Slight progress re did runner 2

Installed a magnus V3 on my colt, it was a pain in the ass, because there is little no room in the car. Had to make a new upper Intercooler pipe, utilizing a tight radius 2.5 inch pipe. so that I could clear the master cylinder. What the pictures don't tell you , is that I had to use a thinner brake booster, and modify the 2g master cylinder and brake lines, so that I would have enough clearance to get a decent pipe in there.

The welds were not pretty enough for me to take detailed pictures off. Basics were 40 amps, 3/16 E3 tungsten , 0.045 ? filler rod, back purged , #12 cup.

On to the pictures

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urban-- your manifold is looking good .

Ahhh i remember yours, you havnt hd any timing belt issues yet have you? I know people were asking about it. Mine is as short as i can make it while keeping equal length for it's placement without cutting the bends

Any tips for this? I don't want it to shrink and not fit after I weld it