I would almost bet that someone else has wrote an article on this, but just in case here is my How To Remove your original OEM rubber motor mounts and install Prothane Poly mounts and it is very easy....with the proper tools. This was on my 1G but the instructions will be the same for 2g's.
You will need:
A sawzall saw with a metal cutting blade
A impact hammer
A razor knife
A floor jack
WD-40
To start you are wondering, how do I get the inside of these mounts out so that I can install these pretty red poly mounts. If your mounts are like most, they are probably ripped by now so that makes it even easier but if they are not then simply take a razor knife (or anything you have that can make a slit in the rubber mount) and cut a slit in your rubber mount. If yours are ripped, then that was about the hardest part and you already have a "hole" in the mount to start cutting with.
Next, after you have your slit, rip or hole in the rubber mount, grab a sawzall with a metal cutting blade in it. I removed my drivers side "L" shaped mount but with the motor out of the car, I left the others in place for support during the cutting process. With the sawzall, spray some lube (WD-40 for me) into the cut, slit or hole in the original mount. Now stick the sawzall blade through the rip, cut or hole and cut straight out towards the outside rim of your motor mount "sleeve", which is the metal part that is attached to the old rubber mount. NOT the mount itself, just slowly cut through the rubber and make a slice in the "sleeve". DO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH YOUR MOTOR MOUNT BRACKET!!!
Here are pictures of what to do:
Notice I just cut through the metal sleeves, and didn't cut into the metal part of your mount, just the inserts.
Now, grab your impact hammer (I guess a hammer and a punch would work but the impact hammer made things come apart in a few seconds) and put the chisel of the hammer on the edge of the sleeve you just cut through and hit the trigger. The original insert should start sliding out much easier than you ever thought. Now it won't just slide out but it is very easy if you got your cuts all the way through the sleeves like in my picture. Next, spray the open hole in the motor mount bracket with lube, and slip your Prothane mounts, which are two piece except for the front roll stop mount which is one piece, into the new open hole you just created. They should go in with out much fuss at all. Mine just pressed in by hand and then I put the metal tube into them after I had the poly pieces in place.
For the front roll stop, the removal is just like described but you will have to press it into the mount since it is one piece with a small lip on both sides. Here, lube is your friend. You will have to remove that mount from the frame and grab your floor jack. Find a nice heavy vehicle (I used my 4 wheel drive full size truck frame) and put your poly mount on top of the roll stop bracket and place that bracket on your floor jack and start jacking up to squeeze your poly mount into it. Spray the metal roll stop bracket with lube on the opening where your poly mount is going to go. Jack up slowly trying to keep it flat so that it slips into the hole evenly. If it starts to go in all crooked, then stop and reposition it. Once it starts to slip in under the pressure of the jack it will start going in quicker since you lubed it up, right???. It will only go in flush, so find a place to press it farther in by looking for a crooked spot or space that will at least allow you to press it on up so it starts to stick out of the other side. Mine was so slippery that once it started to go completely through, it kinda just rolled around the metal mount by itself and it will press out your lube. Bolt that mount back up, or leave it loose, depending on your situation. I did not need a machine shop press to do any of them and this front one was the hardest to do but it was still very easy so don't get overwhelmed, its a walk in the park! Good luck and I hope this helps out those that are scratching their heads on how to do them. I think it took me a little over an hour to do all four. Sorry the engine bay is still dirty in the next picture, it will be nice and clean before the motor goes in, I just wanted to show the poly mounts. Marty
I had a question as to why I cut out the metal part of the old motor mounts and it is because the Poly inserts will not go into your frame mounts unless the original OEM inserts are completely removed. Honestly I was not going to put Poly mounts in....until I priced my drivers side "L" mount. It was around $135.00 alone and the complete Prothane Poly set was $72.00 to my door so I bought the set and jumped into replacing all of them. Here are a couple pictures showing WHY you have to cut a slit through those OEM inserts BUT NOT THE FRAME MOUNT BRACKETS. The pictures are of the Rear Roll Stop for this example on my 1G for clarification.
For 1G FRONT Roll Stop Prothane tips, see my other article titled - "1G Prothane Poly Front Roll Stop Large Hole adaptor for using stock size smaller bolt" in the "Articles: Engine & Fuel" section also. Thanks to all the readers!!!
Marty
Here is the link to that article. If you have a 1G, take a minute to read it so you know what you also should consider with the Prothane insert....don't worry its easy.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g...tor-for-using-stock-size-smaller-bolt.492693/
You will need:
A sawzall saw with a metal cutting blade
A impact hammer
A razor knife
A floor jack
WD-40
To start you are wondering, how do I get the inside of these mounts out so that I can install these pretty red poly mounts. If your mounts are like most, they are probably ripped by now so that makes it even easier but if they are not then simply take a razor knife (or anything you have that can make a slit in the rubber mount) and cut a slit in your rubber mount. If yours are ripped, then that was about the hardest part and you already have a "hole" in the mount to start cutting with.
Next, after you have your slit, rip or hole in the rubber mount, grab a sawzall with a metal cutting blade in it. I removed my drivers side "L" shaped mount but with the motor out of the car, I left the others in place for support during the cutting process. With the sawzall, spray some lube (WD-40 for me) into the cut, slit or hole in the original mount. Now stick the sawzall blade through the rip, cut or hole and cut straight out towards the outside rim of your motor mount "sleeve", which is the metal part that is attached to the old rubber mount. NOT the mount itself, just slowly cut through the rubber and make a slice in the "sleeve". DO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH YOUR MOTOR MOUNT BRACKET!!!
Here are pictures of what to do:
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Notice I just cut through the metal sleeves, and didn't cut into the metal part of your mount, just the inserts.
Now, grab your impact hammer (I guess a hammer and a punch would work but the impact hammer made things come apart in a few seconds) and put the chisel of the hammer on the edge of the sleeve you just cut through and hit the trigger. The original insert should start sliding out much easier than you ever thought. Now it won't just slide out but it is very easy if you got your cuts all the way through the sleeves like in my picture. Next, spray the open hole in the motor mount bracket with lube, and slip your Prothane mounts, which are two piece except for the front roll stop mount which is one piece, into the new open hole you just created. They should go in with out much fuss at all. Mine just pressed in by hand and then I put the metal tube into them after I had the poly pieces in place.
For the front roll stop, the removal is just like described but you will have to press it into the mount since it is one piece with a small lip on both sides. Here, lube is your friend. You will have to remove that mount from the frame and grab your floor jack. Find a nice heavy vehicle (I used my 4 wheel drive full size truck frame) and put your poly mount on top of the roll stop bracket and place that bracket on your floor jack and start jacking up to squeeze your poly mount into it. Spray the metal roll stop bracket with lube on the opening where your poly mount is going to go. Jack up slowly trying to keep it flat so that it slips into the hole evenly. If it starts to go in all crooked, then stop and reposition it. Once it starts to slip in under the pressure of the jack it will start going in quicker since you lubed it up, right???. It will only go in flush, so find a place to press it farther in by looking for a crooked spot or space that will at least allow you to press it on up so it starts to stick out of the other side. Mine was so slippery that once it started to go completely through, it kinda just rolled around the metal mount by itself and it will press out your lube. Bolt that mount back up, or leave it loose, depending on your situation. I did not need a machine shop press to do any of them and this front one was the hardest to do but it was still very easy so don't get overwhelmed, its a walk in the park! Good luck and I hope this helps out those that are scratching their heads on how to do them. I think it took me a little over an hour to do all four. Sorry the engine bay is still dirty in the next picture, it will be nice and clean before the motor goes in, I just wanted to show the poly mounts. Marty
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I had a question as to why I cut out the metal part of the old motor mounts and it is because the Poly inserts will not go into your frame mounts unless the original OEM inserts are completely removed. Honestly I was not going to put Poly mounts in....until I priced my drivers side "L" mount. It was around $135.00 alone and the complete Prothane Poly set was $72.00 to my door so I bought the set and jumped into replacing all of them. Here are a couple pictures showing WHY you have to cut a slit through those OEM inserts BUT NOT THE FRAME MOUNT BRACKETS. The pictures are of the Rear Roll Stop for this example on my 1G for clarification.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
For 1G FRONT Roll Stop Prothane tips, see my other article titled - "1G Prothane Poly Front Roll Stop Large Hole adaptor for using stock size smaller bolt" in the "Articles: Engine & Fuel" section also. Thanks to all the readers!!!
Marty
Here is the link to that article. If you have a 1G, take a minute to read it so you know what you also should consider with the Prothane insert....don't worry its easy.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g...tor-for-using-stock-size-smaller-bolt.492693/
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