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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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I had intake popping and a nonexistent startup when the throttle body was still stuck open by a socket that I forgot about.

By pumping the pedal, you are definitely opening the butterfly, but it's not going to do so much. The intake manifold already contains enough air to start the vehicle, so allowing even more via the open butterfly won't do much more. Pumping the gas on fuel injected cars went out long ago; the ECU already modifies the fuel delivery based on startup conditions, such as temperature.

Sensor issues (cas, cps), fuel delivery, proper spark from firing order.

The other sensors (tps, isc, coolant) should still give a start condition.

Is this 100% right for a 1g 91 laser rs ? Not to steal the thread LOL just wondering I've seen so many diagrams that are differnt

Yep. Firing order is 4123 (4+1 on first coil, 2+3 on the second coil) with cylinder 1 closest to timing belt ("front" of engine)
 
I would check battery, and alternator first with a volt meter like Luv2rallye said. When it shuts off are all the lights dead? Need some more details. Let us know.
 
It's possible that you have a faulty power steering pressure switch (or circuit) or IAC (or circuit). When you're in a parking maneuver, your power steering pressure goes up and requires more power from the engine, the ecu in turn, increases idle speed via IAC.

If that switch is faulty, the ecu doesn't know that the pressure is increasing and can't bump up your idle speed, causing a stall.

If the IAC is faulty, the ecu will command the IAC to increase idle speed but there is no response causing a stall.
 
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Ok i got new battery terminals and got my friend to jump the car off and we got it running. But now its idling rough and it sound like its cammed...
 
I can't seem to get this thing started. Getting frustrated and starting to think I'm doing something wrong.

* 6 Bolt in 2G first startup after rebuild
* Cranks over fine

What I've done so far
* Tested Spark turning crank by hand and watching each spark plug fire in key - "on" position. All fired.
* Checked Timing marks line up
* Checked 1G CAS marks were lined up and installed in TDC position
* 1G CAS rotated all the way clockwise initially, tried different positions, too. I got one small hiccup fire somewhere in the middle, never fired after that.
* 1G CAS trigger plate orientation confirmed (because I had it apart at one point)
* Verified pressure at rail and set to 42.5
* Tested injectors by hooking up leads to 2 prongs on injectors (one to ground, one to battery positive) while installed with no spark plugs, tried to see spray. I could see 3 and 4, spraying, and 1 and 2 I could smell and hear, but could not see. Cylinders filled up with fuel, blew out with compressed air.
Tested 2G ECU water temp sensor for resistance value at around 68 deg.

Other thoughts:

* BR9ES gapped to .018" COP Setup - reason being I researched and found this was a good setup for high boost applications. Going to try a hotter spark plug like BR7ES thinking it will help initial start, rings haven't seated yet (would cause lower compression and make for a harder start?), also not running high boost yet so 9's aren't necessary.
* Initially pressurized rail and attempted to start on 2 year old gas - then realized It was probably bad, drained and filled with fresh 93. Could the older gas have clogged the injectors 1 and 2 with 40 micron stainless filter? Original was a paper 10 micron.
* Can hear the compression as engine turns over but have not tested yet, going to get a tester now. I doubt it's compression though, because freshly built engine.
* Also have not checked over ECU, but I know it was ok last it was used, all it did was sit. What causes an ECU to go bad?

Also there's this
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I just want the damn thing to start!! Going Crazy! Am I on the right track?
 
Spark firing order is probably off.
Doubt this is the case I used the same 1G CAS and same COP setup. I only rerouted the CAS Wiring to clean up the engine bay. Swapped pins for firing order at ECU when I got DSMlink. Nothing has changes since running.
 
Have you dialed in the injectors properly already?

I had 560cc put with no tune, ran super rich, I can only image how the 1200cc would act with no proper setup..


and sense you filled up the cylinders with fuel then cranked it over, you may have washed the oil off the walls , so you may want to get some oil back down in the cylinder to keep compression :)
 
Just because you fired injectors manually doesn't mean they are firing. You did figure out the rail has fuel available. Try some starting fluid and see if it tries to start.
 
Have you dialed in the injectors properly already?

I had 560cc put with no tune, ran super rich, I can only image how the 1200cc would act with no proper setup..


and sense you filled up the cylinders with fuel then cranked it over, you may have washed the oil off the walls , so you may want to get some oil back down in the cylinder to keep compression :)

Yes they were dialed in. Pretty sure the cylinder walls are getting oiled from the oil squirters.

Just because you fired injectors manually doesn't mean they are firing. You did figure out the rail has fuel available. Try some starting fluid and see if it tries to start.

Yes rail is getting 42.5 off the gauge while cranking. I can try starter fluid will any starter fluid do? or would it have to be some kind of automotive? I almost got this while at store getting BR7ES and a compression tester.


Oh by the way, the BR7ES did not do the trick.
 
Starting fluid is ether. Dont know that there is an "automotive" kind

.. then I'll give it a shot tomorrow, unfortunately, I have neighbors that don't like loud noises at night. So work kind of limits itself.
 
Starting fluid is ether. Dont know that there is an "automotive" kind

Hey Paul, Im getting it to start up using starter fluid like you said, but it ONLY starts with starter fluid. Sprayed the starter fluid into the intake manifold via one of the vacuum hoses.

And it wants to die FAST.

I have an idle log attached.
 

Attachments

  • log.2015.05.18-01.elg
    42.4 KB · Views: 102
It was stuck at 100% throttle signal to the ECU. Fixed that this morning The posts on the TPS weren't getting contact. I thought it might be the fix I was looking for. It actually made the car die even faster.

I realize the water temp sensor is showing negative numbers. I did test it out, measuring resistance at the terminals, so it might be a bad connector.
 
Fix these problems first. You just figured out injectors aren't firing. Of course it will die fast as that ether won't last long. Find out why injectors aren't firing.
 
I just installed my rebuilt trans and was about to start it and I get nothing but a buzzing noise . It sounds like its out its out of park I think it the park neutral switch but don't know how to adjust it.
 
I need little help pl.
This is my first dsm and i am a little lost and don't know what direction to take.
i have been try to read up the web on this but no lucky.


I pick up a 95 gsx with a new rebuild 97 engine.
she has the oem ecu 95 gsx EEPROM


I am not getting fuel to the fuel rail.
I put on the voltage meter and do see and good 12v to 13v . i can hear the pump turn on and off.
i swap the fuel pump with a 97 gst to make sure it was not the pump. same problem crank no start
The oem cas was broken off so i swap it with 2 cas from a 91 with the plug and play harnesses for 75 .
i know the car has a after market alarm system at the last owner try to take off and they cut the wire under the dash and re did them after the car would not turn on.
so here i go trying my best to fix her.

I have replaced
fuel injectors from a 96 gst
fuel rail from a 96 gst
fuelpressure regulator form a 96 gst
fuel pump 97 gst
fuel filter
High pressure fuel hose 97 gst
fuel pump sending unit form a 95 gsx
fuel pump 97 gst
Fuel pump relay 95 awd tsi
2 cas 91
oil pressure sensor
knock sensor

I try 4 ecu
2 95 EEPROM oem gsx and 95 tsi oem

1 97 gst black box


fix the boost leak

I payed a dsm guy 110 to help me and he had the car for 2 weeks and told me to clean the gas
it was bad gas and it did turn on for a bite i took it home and clean the tank out and added new gas still problem crank no start

i can take out the filter and crank it over and fuel comes out of the line but not form the filter. or high pressure line before it did.

we have check timing is good compression is good
i do have spark but no fuel.
i can added fuel in the throttle body and she turn on up till the fuel stop.
then turn off.

i did open the ecu the 95 the look good and smell good so far .
 
So you are getting fuel from the line with the fuel filter off or did I misread that. If that is the case try with the filter connected without the banjo bolt in the top of the filter it maybe that the banjo bolt that goes in the top of the filter is clogged with something. Could also be that though the filter is new it is not allowing fuel through as well. If nothing else this will at least help to eliminate a few of the pieces heading up to the fuel rail.
 
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