First of all, make sure that it is a full 6 bolt swap!
Check the head. Look at the CAS. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
Check the block. Look at the oil pan. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html
Check the intake/throttle body. You can have a 6 bolt motor with a 2g intake. A 2g will have the MDP sensor bolted on.

And it depends what kind of parts you are talking about. If you want to know specifically just ask. I have a 2g with a 6 bolt swap.

Tom Gibbons said:

First of all, make sure that it is a full 6 bolt swap!
Check the head. Look at the CAS. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
Check the block. Look at the oil pan. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html
Check the intake/throttle body. You can have a 6 bolt motor with a 2g intake. A 2g will have the MDP sensor bolted on.

And it depends what kind of parts you are talking about. If you want to know specifically just ask. I have a 2g with a 6 bolt swap.

Click to expand...

Good links, also to add: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/
Do this and check all this as well!!

Thanks guys! I checked the CAS and oil pan like and it looks like a 6 bolt. As of now I am planning on replacing spark plugs and wires as well as distributor cap and rotor. So I would have to get spark plugs for a 6 bolt. Also a basic oil change. Any suggestions for maintenance?

david1014 said:

As of now I am planning on replacing spark plugs and wires as well as distributor cap and rotor. So I would have to get spark plugs for a 6 bolt. Also a basic oil change. Any suggestions for maintenance?

Click to expand...

You don't have a distributor cap or rotor. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/spark-plug-faq.233421/

The maintenance guide is your lifeline, but off the top of my head I can think of replacing all belts, hoses, check and make sure you don't have bare wires hanging anywhere, then you can do other basic stuff like brakes and suspension if its bouncy.

DSM's love to leak. If you find a leak, fix it!

Thanks I appreciate the help guys, so now that I know it is a full 6 bolt I would need earlier model spark plug wires correct? I am planning to also get NGK bpr6es spark plugs

The wires for any dsm are the same other than the fact that wire set from a 1g to a 2g are different lengths. Other than that they are the same. I don't remember which is the longer of the two but that's the only difference.

david1014 said:

Thanks I appreciate the help guys, so now that I know it is a full 6 bolt I would need earlier model spark plug wires correct? I am planning to also get NGK bpr6es spark plugs

Click to expand...

With regards to plugs has anyone ever tried plasma or capacitive discharge plugs?

Tom Gibbons said:

First of all, make sure that it is a full 6 bolt swap!
Check the head. Look at the CAS. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
Check the block. Look at the oil pan. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html
Check the intake/throttle body. You can have a 6 bolt motor with a 2g intake. A 2g will have the MDP sensor bolted on.

And it depends what kind of parts you are talking about. If you want to know specifically just ask. I have a 2g with a 6 bolt swap.

Click to expand...

Hey I have a question? So if I need a new alternator do I need a 1g or 2g alternator?

You need a 2g alternator since you have a 2g harness / electrical system.

Thanks ! Appreciate it

Another question! So I noticed a crack on my exhaust manifold and I am planning on replacing it, would I need a 1g or 2g? I am just looking to replace it with a stock one

Dsms leaks are a real headache I had my oil burning up on my timing belt so I had no clue until the hot oil blew my belt and bent a bunch of valves so pull that timing cover and check for oil stains ETC and belt quality

david1014 said:

Another question! So I noticed a crack on my exhaust manifold and I am planning on replacing it, would I need a 1g or 2g? I am just looking to replace it with a stock one

Click to expand...

1G manifolds are prone to cracking so they are usually swapped out with the 2G or E3 manifold as they are all interchangeable. You could also get a FP manifold which would be the best option performance wise and they run around $175 if you are interested. http://store.forcedperformance.net/PROD/EMFPRace.html They have rave reviews, I dont have one (yet) but everyone seems to love them. I personally have a 2G manifold and have no complaints really.

Synthetek, wouldn't this be a good time to do a Galant (plug and play) or Saturn alternator swap? When I replaced mine, which is a 1G, I put a 96 (I believe) Galant alternator on for more amperage. Since I don't own a 2G (son does) I didn't know if the OP could do the same swap. And by the way, I love my FP manifold also. Looks kinda stock but performs and SEALS great! I had a problem with a tubular manifold leaking at the flange so I pitched it and went with the FP.

Would the 2g manifold fit fine or do I need to get anything to to adjust it??

Chumpaumpalumpa said:

1G manifolds are prone to cracking so they are usually swapped out with the 2G or E3 manifold as they are all interchangeable. You could also get a FP manifold which would be the best option performance wise and they run around $175 if you are interested. http://store.forcedperformance.net/PROD/EMFPRace.html They have rave reviews, I dont have one (yet) but everyone seems to love them. I personally have a 2G manifold and have no complaints really.

Click to expand...

Another question? So I noticed that it leaks oil through that line(new to this so idk what it is) is there supposed to be a cover or a tube or something there? How can I cover it?

Which line? The nipple without anything on it should have a line going back to the intake tube, pre turbo.

Yeah the nipple! So it needs the line correct? It cannot be covered?

david1014 said:

Yeah the nipple! So it needs the line correct? It cannot be covered?

Click to expand...

The 4G63T PCV System

Thanks Calan. Yes for proper operation it should have a hose from the nipple to a barb on the intake tube, pre turbo, to create vacuum to suck out the nasty fumes that are made in the motor when the pcv valve has positive pressure (during boost) and isn't sucking them out to reburn to say it as simple as I can. When you're under vacuum in the motor, the pcv valve will draw the fumes into the intake manifold and that nipple will supply fresh filtered air.