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A 91 GSX DD survivor build

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So...no update for a while... sad to say its not cause Ive been hauling ass around everywhere... So I hit the 50 mile mark, changed oil filters, was starting to romp on it a bit more, even tho I was SUPER easy on her...was on WG pressure of 14psi, no water/meth, no knock, and slowly working my way up in RPM to tune as I went, my initial thoughts was it was still pretty laggy, was hitting full boost at like 5k, which was worse than before but figured SMIM and bigger cams. I took it up to 6500 by the 50 mile mark, it was really starting to come alive at the higher end! I was adding airflow in SD so made sense, that night I went ahead and ran my buddies vette ZO6 just see how Id fair, shifting at 7k still on low boost, we were even if i could get into spool soon enough. Welp after that run it started knocking slightly. I nursed it home totally bummed but somewhat optimistic. Did a compression check, 210/210/205/110, I hoped it was a collapsed HLA which was making the fuss, but cut open the 50 mile oil filter, NOPE
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Cut open the new filter with 20 miles for a total of 70 on the engine, same thing. Pulled bearings, they all look evenly starved
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I didnt pull the thrust main yet, but all rods and every other main look like this. So far I know then that, its not starved enough to be getting no oil, its not contaminants left in the block, ect. Basically it was slightly starving across all journals. IDK the cause yet, but I know at this point I shouldve had a better oil gauge thats more responsive, cause although the pressure was higher than last time it ran on the tired engine, the gauge responds very slow, also shouldve had an external oil cooler, HLA regulator, just lame cause I ran most of this setup before. The big thing thats different is the 2G head, have a feeling thats where the issue is.[DOUBLEPOST=1413954533][/DOUBLEPOST]So theres a light at the end of the tunnel, I have a plan. Rather than pull engine, hunt for problem, buy more stuff, wait for more machine work, and basically be down for quite a while, not to mention still be somewhat limited to 500+whp by stock crank, no girdle, and stockish trans, Im gonna be doing a "shelf build". Ive got spare 6 bolt stuff, screw it. I only ran this new turbo setup for like a month and a half due to such a narrow powerband (4900-7700) and fear of breaking stuff, especially with a noisy trans, I tore it down. So ill be doing a refined version of that! It'll have 2G 8.5 cr pistons, so less lag, evo springs so higher redline, HKS cams which are known for being "drop in" cams so less lag and more power, other than that pretty similar to before, cyclone intake, GTX3076, ect. This makes a lot more sense, I doubt the stock 92 trans wouldve shifted at 9k with a single clutch anyways. So this should be good for 8k and 500whp, which should be plenty for now, and best part is I can play while Im going through the forged engine, do more upgrades, and do the EVOIII gearset trans thats waiting for a build. So everythings on the way, shouldnt be long at all for this to go together since its so stock.
 
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So Ive jumped around so much on parts, Im gonna make a list of the current build going together, that way when results start being displayed it'll go together, I'm basically gonna run this combo until something breaks, so hopefully Ill get some use out of it. Parts are coming in like mad, Im trying to put this build together in record time and a ridiculously cheap budget, not cause I have to, just cause I know its possible. This build is so simple it'll be a breeze. I need to get back to representing the DSM around here
Block/bottom end
Stock 6 bolt, .020, polished oil galleys, thats it
Polished stock crank, 6 bolt rods, ARP bolts, resized/modded for 2G NPR pistons/rings
CNS motors oil pump/front case
Standard ARP headstuds

Head/Top end
6 Bolt head, Evo 8 springs/retainers
Delta 272 cams
3G lifters
Cyclone intake mani on phenolic gasket
NT 60mm throttle body

Turbo/other
GTX3076 billet 11 blade
Turbonetics k/o cast T3 mani
Water/meth injection

Trans/drivetrain
92 trans, 4 spider center diff
XTD stage 4 clutch/11lb fw
CC Forged clutch fork
Poly mounts
Solid shift bushings/short shifter
 
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So Ive jumped around so much on parts, Im gonna make a list of the current build going together, that way when results start being displayed it'll go together, I'm basically gonna run this combo until something breaks, so hopefully Ill get some use out of it. Parts are coming in like mad, Im trying to put this build together in record time and a ridiculously cheap budget, not cause I have to, just cause I know its possible. This build is so simple it'll be a breeze. I need to get back to representing the DSM around here
Block/bottom end
Stock 6 bolt, .020, polished oil galleys, thats it
Polished stock crank, 6 bolt rods modded for 2G NPR pistons/rings
CNS motors oil pump/front case
Standard ARP headstuds

Head/Top end
6 Bolt head, Evo 8 springs/retainers
Delta 272 cams
3G lifters
Cyclone intake mani on phenolic gasket
NT 60mm throttle body

Turbo/other
GTX3076 billet 11 blade
Turbonetics k/o cast T3 mani
Water/meth injection

Trans/drivetrain
92 trans, 4 spider center diff
XTD stage 4 clutch/11lb fw
CC Forged clutch fork
Poly mounts
Solid shift bushings/short shifter
Definitely post a cost figure. I really wanna see how cheap this can be. :thumb:
 
Definitely post a cost figure. I really wanna see how cheap this can be. :thumb:
Sure. Some of these includes stuff I already had, like a 6 bolt head, the turbo was already plumbed so add around 80 for the softline kit, but since Im building a totally separate engine from my main build, this is basically what it would cost from scratch. I havent gotten a total from the machine shop yet but Ill add in a very accurate guess since I deal with them a lot

pricing
Used 6 bolt shortblock $150
NPR pistons/rings $100
Bearings $50
Oil pump $64
ARP headstuds $40
Evo springs $40
Delta cams $215
3G lifters $70
Cyclone intake $150/gasket $20
NT throttle body $30/throttle shaft seals $5
Turbo-sponsored, but would go for around $600
Turbonetics mani $70+bevel resurface $70+T3 flange/gaskets $20
38mm EWG $65
Water/meth $250
92 Trans $425
4 spider diff from jacks $430
Xtd stage 4 with fw $320
CC fork $100
Poly mounts $80
Shift bushings $40
Fel pro Head gasket $30
ARP rod bolts $38
machine work, rough guess
Block/head resurface, 2G piston modding the rods, polish crank, $200
So not including trans stuff and engine only Ill be around $1500 deep into it[DOUBLEPOST=1414715920][/DOUBLEPOST]
but can it beat a bolt on hx40 2g? LOL
Just you wait buddy....just you wait
 
Sooooo....where the hell were we... Ive been a busy guy.
Delta regrind HKS 272s
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ARP rod bolts
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Evo springs installed
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2G pistons on 6 bolt rods
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A bottom end
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Between not even a shortblock and running took 3 days, and that was while I had the kiddo around. Not bad if you ask me. Im beat! So a bit of lifter tick, even tho I soaked and bled them down. Gotta take care of that but took her down the road, seated rings under low boost, a ton less lag, way more responsive, and pretty darn lean due to the extra airflow. These HKS cams sound totally different, sounds mean as hell. Pretty stoked
 
Awesome build, did you have the rods checked/ resized after installing arp rod bolts? I have read mixed views on this wondering what you did. Also any clue what caused the oil starvation problem?
 
Awesome build, did you have the rods checked/ resized after installing arp rod bolts? I have read mixed views on this wondering what you did. Also any clue what caused the oil starvation problem?
Thanks! Yes, I talked to the machine shop and they said everytime different bolts are put in they must be resized, but its light enough that theyre still standard size bearings.
I had to rob more than I intended out of the forged engine, mainly a stubby shaft, so it got completely torn down to short block, that thing had a lot of issues going on, it was discouraging as hell. Cyl 1 was down in compression since day 1, looks to be leaking intake valves, cyl 4 piston was contacting the wall, entire way down both sides, on top of that still dont know why it didnt oil right, Im just glad I decided to do a completely separate engine build, since my main pride and joy went so wrong.

Things are going great so far, got 75 miles on engine, oil filter change/cut open, had a bit more than Id like to see but nothing I wont just keep my eye on. 150 miles on clutch which is the main concern right now, gotta hit that 500!!
Fixed a lot of boost leaks, rebuilt throttle body with new seals
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Ran a bigger alt wire to try and improve voltage, did some cleaning up in the engine bay. Did a total of 9 pulls today, all I did was tuning...its so involved since I try and get stuff near perfect, setting global to match boostest and keep the airflow numbers accurate. Just on WG pressure right now, 14ish, but damn the car has so much more low end and respnse! It comes alive just as good as a stock STi which I loved how little lag they have, difference is my shit pulls up top too LOL. Only Flowing 34 lbs/min but can already tell this is gonna be a killer street combo
 
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So you think a large part of the increased low end while still being able to flow up top is due to the turbo? I guess the bump in compression going to 2g helped too? I'm going to do the same thing (1g rod/2g piston) and I hope I notice a difference in low end! I know the sti is a 2.5 but I don't think it has a longer stroke. So is the gtx a ball bearing design? I understand you put in cams, intake, exhaust etc but I'm wondering what is the main factor. I'm thinking that the turbo is sized well for your combo and intended use. Thanks for sharing I'm looking for similar response and power.
 
So you think a large part of the increased low end while still being able to flow up top is due to the turbo? I guess the bump in compression going to 2g helped too? I'm going to do the same thing (1g rod/2g piston) and I hope I notice a difference in low end! I know the sti is a 2.5 but I don't think it has a longer stroke. So is the gtx a ball bearing design? I understand you put in cams, intake, exhaust etc but I'm wondering what is the main factor. I'm thinking that the turbo is sized well for your combo and intended use. Thanks for sharing I'm looking for similar response and power.

Well Ive ran this turbo/intake on a stock high mile 6 bolt with crower 264/272s, so this is prettty much compared to that since I didnt even get to feel much on the forged build I tried. The cyclone helps a ton with low end, but this turbo is pretty laggy, not gonna lie, its journal bearing, the stock 6 bolt did full spool at 4900, before that it was pretty dead, the cool thing about the higher compression is its doin some kinda work before the turbo does, also hks272s are known for being drop in cams, no degreeing needing, theyre doing their job too. Those 2 things are all thats different in this case, compression and cams.
 
Update, got the 15 psi tune pretty well dialed in, it idles finally, starting to up the boost ever so slightly just to flatten the curve out, at 320 miles and counting. Looking to hit the dyno after 500 and the water/meth tune is dialed in[DOUBLEPOST=1417846979][/DOUBLEPOST]0D0D8F71-D71F-4CC7-B6B5-A0FF0B414361_zps9nojzsnw.jpg
Took off the wastegate, put in a big blue spring with the small black, went from 15psi to 19psi, actually had a lot of tuning to do for this, had to pull a lot of timing, did 10 pulls tonight, Im at 375 miles and counting. Plan is now that this boost level is basically dead on dialed, and is the highest boost I'd run on pump since the timing curve is ridiculous, gonna start on the water/meth injection and keep stepping up the power :) 70-90 went from 2.15-1.91. Last winter was 1.6 when it was all said and done[DOUBLEPOST=1417847167][/DOUBLEPOST]Heres a log
 

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Updates! Lets see.... Had to do some shifter mods. Got rid of the EVO metal shift bushings, and pressed in solid bushings.
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Lubed the shift cables, and put in a shift stopper so I can BANG gears without fear. Shifts like a dream now.
Next....got some leaks...
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Pulled T case, did input/output seals, U joint, and driveshaft yolk, all were leaking.
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So the T case holds fluid... got some more leaks to address, just gonna have to go through them...

Went from torched stock springs to some H&R lowering springs
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and finally a light diet with going to 2G manual seatbelts, saved a good 40 lbs
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I got a CDI box but having an issue that I think is the ecu on its way out...so I have a spare at ECMLink now so I can try. Many things on the avenue here
 
So... First was getting the alternator away from the downpipe
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Jay racing alternator relocation kit
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Went back to a side facing oil filter housing, with oil cooler, no more FFOFH.

All this room for activities!!

Time to fill it up
redid some exhaust work, cut myself
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Hit the track
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Time for a clutch, this is the best I could launch without slipping. Ran 30 psi, saw 52 lbs/min, on pump/water meth inj. Timing curve is still too low, Will be moving to flex fuel and Holset. Wanting to break roll bar index not a problem this year. More to come for sure
 
So close to 11's! Just read the whole build and totally subbing!
Yeah man little disappointed but not really, my normal 60 ft is a 1.85 or so, best is 1.79, which is actually with this same model of clutch, XTD stg 4, if I had my normal launch it wouldve gotten there, the track I went to is a thousand times better, Woodburn raceway, the density altitude was -950ft that day, and the traction is usually good. Its cool though cause the local track doesnt open for a month, so this test hit got me to see some issues to sort out till then. It is gonna be a great year thats for sure
 
Nice build, good idea on the shift stop, I'll have to do that. And I laughed at the step brothers reference, I thought my friend and I were the only ones to use that one, classic. Like a mix between Fergie and Jesus LOL.
 
Going to some old APC seats outta my Camaro. 7352D0F0-5401-4135-A763-8FEB2476DF3D_zpscdewpgkw.jpg
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These seats have been a crapload of work... got the passenger in after a good 3 hours of fudging. The drivers is gonna be way worse... 574B316D-0BEC-451F-A084-9ECCB83D2BCA_zpshlrsshbn.jpg
all this for about 30 lbs savings... but it all adds up. Also sold my 2G, so going full bore on this and my GVR4, more to come!
 
So I went out for a run on lunch... spooled up... lost boost, thought I blew a charge pipe, nope. Saw coolant dripping and dipstick popped out so knew it was bad
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Broke the turbine shaft in the thrust area
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Luckily I already had the next step in the works and my bigger turbo was already being machined so shouldnt be down too long, sucks tho since the track opens in a week and a half!!
So this is where Im at, I was already working towards my goal of 500+ (more like 550) whp street car, with a good usable powerband, I needed to refine a few things... Less lag, more top end, less weight, street manners, flex fuel, ect. I could tell after running 30 psi for a while this turbo probably wouldnt get me there, so Ive been working on the next deal there. Also obviously a clutch, changing to flex fuel, keep going with the diet, and soon, PAINT!!
So for the street manners, got a tablet for logging, was tired of lugging the laptop around everyday
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One thing that always drove me nuts is I had to stack lock washers on the cam bolts, I cut them down, did them right, retorqued headstuds, ect
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Also did some cam timing changes... Did
-2 ex, which added some top end with no loss in spool!! then I tried
-4 ex/-2 in, not so good, lost some bottom end, didnt gain top end, just bland
-4 ex/0 in, this seems to be about right, more top end, likes to spin 2nd and bounce revvy, when before I'd find myself short shifting 7500 from flattening off
After the alternator relocate I was seeing some voltage dropping out, if lights/fan/stereo ect were on I was seeing low 12v at idle. Pulled axle, got it exchanged, tried to find a 130a but had to settle for a 96 again. Since Im going to flex fuel I know my fuel pump needs to be working at its max
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Then the real packages started arriving.... Weve got....
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FIC 2150 injectors, pigtails, resistor bypass plug, aluminum rad/fans, flex fuel sensor/plug, Southbend SSX/TZ clutch.
Man these things look funny next to a low z injector
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So Ill be pushing this turd in/out for a while...but good things to come obviously. Time to go big and haul some ass
 
This part is not for the faint of heart
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So cleaned all of the wheel pieces out...
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I don't think I've had this car so apart in years. More coming off too, fuel rail came off for mods/injectors
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The trusty fic 1050s I've been running for so long
 
Good luck with your build! I just bought a 98 2g gsx from medford and the motor quit on me as soon as I got back home so a 2.4 long rod is in the works with a hx40
Oh wow dont see too many awd 2Gs here, that'll be a sweet combo tho! Thanks good luck to you too.

So day 2 of this mayhem tear down...I didnt take too many pics cause there isnt a lot to see yet, I Dig out pieces from intercooler
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Ever since I did the H&R springs I hated how it sat/handled. It was too tall and soft, so put on some ground control coilovers, which was pretty much all for today
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Also picked up a spare part or 2 from a friend. Going along with the cars diet I will be doing a lightweight hatch for summer time, and keeping mine for the winter.

Tomorrow Ill be sending the flywheel in for resurfacing, doing new seals in the trans, and getting all my aluminum parts welded up (I dont TIG)
 
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