this link should help

Thx alot that video did help alot but now i just have 2-3 tread left on the rod/pedal assembly i cant ajust nomore i would need a longer master cinlinder rod ive read that its common with 1gs...any solution?

I'm in the same boat right now. Adjustment rod was all the way out.
Test the clutch pedal assembly by first backing out the upper clutch pedal stopper, it's a switch & allows more pedal travel . Press clutch in & release. Pull up on the pedal & if there's ANY play, pull that assembly & rebuild. I'm waiting on my rebuild kit from JNZ tuning currently. Several hours to remove, 120$ kit with brass bushing so it can be welded up. Much cheaper than pulling your trans, which you will have to do if you ignore this problem. My clutch master lever had 1/2 to 1 inch of play which translates to huge movement loss at the master rod. Going to weld mine & hope it holds. Other options would be different clutch & components. Good luck, I need it too.
Here the write up:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-clutch-pedal-removal-install.389980/

Call me ghetto, and I know you will, but I got fed up and welded another nut behind the clevis pin for more extension.

Here is a neat thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bad-clutch-pedal-assembly.469387/

and

http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...21+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-a

Another variation of this....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/master-cylinder-rod-adjustment-fix.462232/

Ive done what you described but that is probably a bandaid for another symptom. So long as the hydraulics still work proplerly and youre not bottoming out the master piston I dont see a problem. Eventually you should find the root cause and fix it.

pauleyman said:

Ive done what you described but that is probably a bandaid for another symptom. So long as the hydraulics still work proplerly and youre not bottoming out the master piston I dont see a problem. Eventually you should find the root cause and fix it.

Click to expand...

Yes, I believe that in most of my cases, it is a worn pedal causing this situation.

Welding a nut to the clevis pin was hard but doable on my GVR4. I can't see how I'll have enough room to get it off on the DSM...unless I tie wrap the gas pedal all the way back or tie wrap the throttle cable all the way open at the TB.

For the DSM, I used a small barrel bolt then cut the head off another bolt. After that, loctite comes in handy.

OP....how is your issue going?

How to get what off? The clevis bracket? Comes off easily.

pauleyman said:

How to get what off? The clevis bracket? Comes off easily.

Click to expand...

I have a hard time reaching it on a 1g. Killing my back and neck. If I push my head against the pedal I can barely reach it. This is all with the driver's seat out.

Pointers?

Unscrew it from the master so its free to move. Been years since ive done it. Once you remove the clevis I don't see how its an issue.

pauleyman said:

Unscrew it from the master so its free to move. Been years since ive done it. Once you remove the clevis I don't see how its an issue.

Click to expand...

Will let you know when done. Bad back right now. Thanks

4gfun, I've done exactly what you did. It helps out a lot.

I've done so much work on trying to get the clutch system figured out it's unreal. but I've about got it.

We all know that the pedal assembly needs to be in good shape to get a decent release, so I'll leave that alone.

Basically what it boils down to is the heavier pressure plates need a lot more TOB travel to release them than a stock one does.

OEM Mitsu clutch sets needs about .200" to release the clutch. My act 2900 and street disc in a ACT flywheel needs a little more than .300" to release it. My car with a very well bled setup, a short braded line and a master cylinder with the clevis and everything modded to get the maximum travel, has a relase travel of about .330"

The step height has very very little effect on release, quite honesty stating that you need a flat .612 step height is dumb. The PP manufacutrure should tell you what you need, but I don't think they really know. The step heigh needs to be determined by balancing the clamp load curve, finger to disc clearance and the flatness of the fingers.

Shimming the pivot ball won't fix anything unless your fork hits the bellhousing before your clutch is released, and that can only happen if you have a radically cut flywheel, a worn ball and a junk fork.

The second thing that happens, is that, at high rpm the pp fingers move outward and push back the tob, reducint your effective tob travel, causing high rpm lockout problems. The only way to fix this is to get the fingers to lie flat, or redesign the clutch system.

Jacks video doesn't describe this, and his clutch drag test doesn't test for this.

You can also try a 3/s 11/16" bore slave cylinder, but that's a bandaid.

The real fix is a 2g or izusu slave, a wilwood girling type master cylinder and some clutch pedal assemly mods to make it all work.

bastarddsm said:

4gfun, I've done exactly what you did. It helps out a lot.

I've done so much work on trying to get the clutch system figured out it's unreal. but I've about got it.

We all know that the pedal assembly needs to be in good shape to get a decent release, so I'll leave that alone.

Basically what it boils down to is the heavier pressure plates need a lot more TOB travel to release them than a stock one does.

OEM Mitsu clutch sets needs about .200" to release the clutch. My act 2900 and street disc in a ACT flywheel needs a little more than .300" to release it. My car with a very well bled setup, a short braded line and a master cylinder with the clevis and everything modded to get the maximum travel, has a relase travel of about .330"

The step height has very very little effect on release, quite honesty stating that you need a flat .612 step height is dumb. The PP manufacutrure should tell you what you need, but I don't think they really know. The step heigh needs to be determined by balancing the clamp load curve, finger to disc clearance and the flatness of the fingers.

Shimming the pivot ball won't fix anything unless your fork hits the bellhousing before your clutch is released, and that can only happen if you have a radically cut flywheel, a worn ball and a junk fork.

The second thing that happens, is that, at high rpm the pp fingers move outward and push back the tob, reducint your effective tob travel, causing high rpm lockout problems. The only way to fix this is to get the fingers to lie flat, or redesign the clutch system.

Jacks video doesn't describe this, and his clutch drag test doesn't test for this.

You can also try a 3/s 11/16" bore slave cylinder, but that's a bandaid.

The real fix is a 2g or izusu slave, a wilwood girling type master cylinder and some clutch pedal assemly mods to make it all work.

Click to expand...

Interesting read bastard! Thanks for laying it out.

Not to hijack, but OP hasn't responded and I'd like your thoughts here if you are ok with it:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/94...lutch-disengages-1-inch-off-the-floor.491943/

I know that the pedal is screwed, but who wants to fix that and then do B then C.

When my GVR4 pedal did the same, I did the same with the master cylinder rod and have never had to look back.

I literally rebuilt my clutch pedal assembly over the weekend , I took out the break master all the way to get the assembly out. When finished and re installed it took my clutch from engaging right off the floor to right in the middle, all my parts were purchased from exstreampsi, and was hands down the best thing I've done yet to my car,
how I came to the conclusion I needed a rebuild was I was getting locked out of 4th gear while under heavy load but would drive fine normally, I also did the 7k RPM clutch down and in gear tests

blesi660r said:

I literally rebuilt my clutch pedal assembly over the weekend , I took out the break master all the way to get the assembly out. When finished and re installed it took my clutch from engaging right off the floor to right in the middle, all my parts were purchased from exstreampsi, and was hands down the best thing I've done yet to my car,
how I came to the conclusion I needed a rebuild was I was getting locked out of 4th gear while under heavy load but would drive fine normally, I also did the 7k RPM clutch down and in gear tests

Click to expand...

I read that doing this job is horrific. I don't doubt my abilities, but don't want to get stuck either.

Thoughts?

NO! It is not as bad as everyone says it is, you will have to remove the drivers seat "I'm 6'3" so I kinda had to, steering colum needs to come out, and the break booster needs to come off the car completely to get it out of the way, the clevises are easy to get appart, you'll need a 12 and a 14mm wrench same in sockets. It's time consuming but not difficult, make sure to mark the the steering colum befor you remove it off the splines.

This is the best advice I can give some one planning on taking the pedal assembly out, its not fun! but in no way the hardest thing I've done on the car

Also forgot to add that I had my assembly welded and used the bronze bushing, when you order the bushings you'll only need one.

It's not complicated, it just really sucked to get out, cause your upside down under the dash.

Only thing that sucked for me was the alarm system the previous owner had installed was a mess and in the way, after I got the column out I went through the mess and un-installed the alarm, I also followed this thread the best I could :

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/any-1g-clutch-pedal-pic-requests.196048/

I rebuilt my pedal assembly this week too, bronze bushing & welded. I was actually able to get the slave to lock up, but turning the clutch rod just to the point were the slave moves again (by hand, backward) I still have clutch drag and lockout.

I guess I'll bleed again & maybe have to try the 2g clutch rod. There is currently still only a couple threads left but it will indeed lock the slave now, before the rebuild it would not. Progress, I guess.

What is different about the 2g slave & will it bolt up fine to 1g? Does the extended master rod preload the clutch like the extended slave rod?

Thanks for all replies and help!

What clutch do you have bricked? did you weld a nut on the master clevis? adjust the pedal stops for maximum upward?

I'm told the clutch is south bend 8 puck, not really sure what that means, it's never slipped while cruising/romping, though I only have 85 miles on the car since purchase in Nov.
Problems started after clutch drag test then me tinkering around. Shift linkage seems fine but has minimal side to side etc movement.
I backed out the upper pedal stop for maximum movement. It was screwed in probably because of the pedal slop.
I have not added a nut to move the master rod out further, though maybe I should, if this isn't harmful. But like I said, I can get the slave to freeze, pushing it backward, if I turn the master rod just a titch more..
I just cannot afford for trans shop look at it right now.
Goes into gear with car off just fine. But it takes a workout to get into any gear with it running: pumping pedal off and on, push this way and that and maybe it'll go. R grind until it's all the way in.
Thanks again