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Evo 8-10 Brembo Calipers DSM Conversion (for 1g too)

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Got my BMC in the mail today hope it's the right one! Bottom number equates to 17/16, so I am assuming it is. Going to keep my stock brake booster since the consensus in this thread is that the stock one should be adequate.
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Just do not trash those fittings as you will need them when you get your brake lines made. This way the person that makes them can give you an exact replacement to hook up to the MC. The other end would need the same exact fitting that is used on the stock lines which you will find are different than those that came with your new MC.

Hope that makes sense!
 
I should be fine. I pulled a NON-ABS prop valve + lines from my local junkyard. I am also doing SS brake lines and adapter that gofer has posted part numbers for. So, I have the correct adapter/fitting for the 3G MC since the flare differs from prop to MC. Thanks for looking out, though!
 
I should be fine. I pulled a NON-ABS prop valve + lines from my local junkyard. I am also doing SS brake lines and adapter that gofer has posted part numbers for. So, I have the correct adapter/fitting for the 3G MC since the flare differs from prop to MC. Thanks for looking out, though!
Those adapters do not work tried them already. You are better off taking the stock dsm fittings, and the fittings that came with the 3g master cylinder to the hose shop so that they can make up two stainless hoses for you . One side of the line would have the dsm style fitting and the opposite side would have the 3G fitting. Same on the other hose. That's what did.
 
I'm going to tackle this project soon and would like some more clarity on how to mount the brackets from livinboost to get the calipers clocked "upwards" Not sure the difference from upwards to downwards. is it just flipped?
 
Also if I want to run new lines to the factory lines what kind of fittings should I use? The factory fitting on the Brembos are Banjo bolts so I will most likely duplicate that, but for the fittings that mount inside the wheel well ( about 2ft of line from the caliper ) what fittings would I need to adapt to that part of the line?
 
I juat want to input my recent upgrade here.

I used all evo items. The booster and MC were from the evo 8 as were my brembos.

But first everyone talks about bench bleeding the MC! On these you cannot do it correctly as the system it open once you release the cylinder so the fluid comes out anyway so doing this just wastes fluid and it all falls out! The system is only closed once its got pressure applied to the cylinder so bleding off the car is a waste of time, if it had proper bleed nipples added to the MC then you can bench bleedd it a bit but mostly its ways done on the car and with the front jacked up for all air to come out the upper most exit on the MC!

As for the MC and booster the booster from an evo is tight. So tight on the bottom i had to tap a small flat area on it ti get it to seat! No biggie but anoying to do, the other thing is the adjuster for the pedal inside once unscrewed still sits about 5mm away from the pedal pinhole so i had to push the pedal 5mm in to pin it. Then the brake switch was far away, this ment taking it off to remove the locking nut and placing it on the otherside to get the switch to actually seat how it is supposed to.i thought thise was a staight swap! Seems to me like its never been mentioned and is not as straight as its made out to be. A longer brake pivot adjuster would be good so im going to try find one or swap shafts.

The MC from an evo dont work, i did see at somepoint ages ago it does but then i read last night it was tight and didnt work as i had to turn the res around and dent my inner wing area a bit to get it in, not the end of the world but its in, i will however be buying a 3g unit from JNZ and swapping it over after summer as i dont really want to run the MC thisway! It would be fine and work but i would rather undent my inner wing area, its not causing any issues other then that!

Ive been collecting parts for this for about 2-3 years now and ive collected items listed throughout this thread! And some of this info has never been mentioned, which is annoying as i ran into all these unexpected problems i could have thought about before the install!
 
Here are a few pics of the issues i come across, the pin for tbe brake pivot i didnt get a pic off

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I did not use anything from an Evo only the callipers and rotors so I had none of those issues. Using the 3g eclipse parts.MC and Booster was a straight swap ,I still have the stock brake switch, had to lengthen the stock plug harness to reach the now repositioned fbrake fluid cup on the MC that has the slot that the plug goes into and thats it. The brake lines were not a straight swap because the flared ends are entirely different. Had mines made up with new braided lines with the proper flares applied by the hose shop. 2g flares on one end and the 3g type flares put on the other end. No adapters!
The Evo MC setup was also am option but it was mentioned that it's a pain in the ass to install. The 3g stuff is the same size as the evo (piston in the MC) and booster size. The 2.4l Galant uses the same parts as well.
Just want to add that I think the stock brake booster is plenty sufficient but the MC upgrade is a must when using these bigger calipers. I even think the feel with the stock booster would be better imop. Then again I have the BAER brake calipers in front which are way bigger and better than stock and the evo 9 calipers in the rear whcih could be why.While my car does stop the brake pedal distance is really short and a little over sensitive to me but I got used to it. Car has great brakes I may put the stock booster back in with the upgraded 3g MC. The Galant uses the same parts don't forget guys so either car and your good.
 
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I'm working on this swap as well. Using stainless braided brake lines to hook up the calipers. I was able to get a pair of rear lines separate without having to buy a whole new kit since I bought the DSM set previously.

I used a 3G master cylinder/brake booster combo and made an extended wiring harness for the fluid level switch. I was able to get it in there with the engine still there, but it was an insane tight fit. Took a lot of cussing. I was able to caress the brake lines into the slight bend they needed to connect. Going to try it with "adapters" to match the flaring on the lines and mc/bb.

I had to adjust the pedal push rod a hair and the brake light switch as well. Nothing extreme though. I'll revisit these once I get the front on and start bleeding the system.

I'll be using the JDM Galant knuckles for my swap. I have to pull the hubs and axles out anyway because the axles need a rebuild. That should be messy and fun (not).

Rotors I'm using just stock OEM Evo rotors. Nothing special. Same for pads since they have a lot of life in them.
 
I was told the evo/3g booster are the same size! When i install my new intake manifold i may try the oem booster and thats when i will install the new 3g MC, other the that the brakes seems amazing, the oads work wonders too, even though it was only a test drive they shot sparks and even locked up due to the new brake pressure applied,

The other reason the stock booster may feel better is it will push the pedal back to its normal location as its 5mm in right now and it feels super weird and now i cannot just slide over the the accel pedal no more
 
So whats the actually reason the 3g/evo booster is swapped? Is it for brake pressure to be greater or less? I dont know the reason for booster sizing etc.

If i keep the evo booster i will need to find a brake pivot adjuster thats longer as i cannot deal with the brake pedal being this far down now, there must be a way to get a longer adjuster from a different car!

Im also not fussed in the brake fluid sensor at all so no cares about wiring for that, but the 3g MC is a must i do agree. When i read this info it was a few years back so i guess since then and installing recently things got found out i never saw a d didnt not have time to get a 3g MC!
 
So whats the actually reason the 3g/evo booster is swapped? Is it for brake pressure to be greater or less? I dont know the reason for booster sizing etc.

If i keep the evo booster i will need to find a brake pivot adjuster thats longer as i cannot deal with the brake pedal being this far down now, there must be a way to get a longer adjuster from a different car!


Im also not fussed in the brake fluid sensor at all so no cares about wiring for that, but the 3g MC is a must i do agree. When i read this info it was a few years back so i guess
since then and installing recently things got found out i never saw a d didnt not have time to get a 3g MC!
Again all I did was take out my stock booster and MC and put in the 3g booster and MC,connected the brake pedal to the other end of the 3g Booster and that was it no issuea. As far as an Evo brake booster is concerned and the Evo MC I can not tell you if it's a direct swap,but what I can tell you is that I had no issues whatsoever with the 3G/Galant setup. Maybe the rod in the Evo BB is a different length.
 
I will repeat, LEAVE the stock dsm booster in and just get a 3g or Galant MC and call it a day. There are guys on here that have done it that way with plenty of success. I even had a debate with Gofer (which he claimed you had to change the stock BB and I said it was not necessary)about changing the BB. Toss the Evo BB and call it a day But put in the bigger MC.IMOP
 
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Well the booster is in and apart from the length its all ok so i may just keep that in place. I just read online that the bigger the booster the better but i just read this on some site that popped up in google. I can understand the size sor the calipers etc. As it will offer more pedal pressure and less travel, i get this now.

I will just swap the MC to the better fitting unit and go from there. I would like to try the chasebay eliminator booster adaptor but i will wait till its full track before going this route!
 
Isn't there an overbore rebuild kit that fits 3s mc that we have been using for years? Chuck the old mc in a lathe and presto: a bolt on oversize mc. What am I missing?
 
So I understand why one of the ears has to be tapped. But why is the bracket threaded for the same hole? Wouldn't you want the bracket to not be threaded.

That way when you tighten down on the bolt it is snug agains the ear?
 
It was so easy just to pop in the 3G BB/MC as a pair. Took minutes. Didn't have to adjust or move anything. I don't know why anyone would do it any other way.

Besides the lines/fittings, obviously.
 
Well th
It was so easy just to pop in the 3G BB/MC as a pair. Took minutes. Didn't have to adjust or move anything. I don't know why anyone would do it any other way.

Besides the lines/fittings, obviously.
Well the evo and 3g booster are apparently the same and i had to adjust the pushrod/brake pivot arm on the brake pedal side so if you did not have to adjust anything you either had a different version of booster or your pedal is about 1/2" out as thats what mine pretty much sat at. I had to unwind it all the way out and im still 5mm short from the oem location, and it feels weird. Maybe you can put up a pic of yours and show me how yours sits
 
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