I've bought a project

Gsxskip · Mar 5, 2015

ok, this is my second Mitsubishi, first was a 2003 lancer oz rally, now on to a work in progress project, a 1991 automatic Mitsubishi eclipse GSX. What they did was put a 16g turbo on it and a 3 inch exhaust from turbo back. Also a manual cpu. I bought it for 600 dollars and I already plan on a full tune-up. I feel like it's driving on 3 cylinders (feels like its missing, and quite honestly sounds like a Subaru). It takes until around 4k to build boost and then the boost makes it act goofy, also blows the dipstick out... Where do I start

BogusSVO · Mar 5, 2015

A leak down test is the first step....

Gsxskip · Mar 5, 2015

BogusSVO said:
A leak down test is the first step....

Leak down test is scheduled for Wednesday, thank you. And I did a compression test and it did well.

BogusSVO · Mar 5, 2015

what did you have for compression?

Commonly when the dipstick pops out it is one of 3 things, the rubber o ring on the dipstick is missing, the dipstick tub is stretched.

But the third is by far the worse, the rings are shot in the engine and allowing a large amount of blow by, letting you know it is time for a rebuild.

Chumpaumpalumpa · Mar 5, 2015

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/

Gsxskip · Mar 5, 2015

BogusSVO said:
what did you have for compression?

Commonly when the dipstick pops out it is one of 3 things, the rubber o ring on the dipstick is missing, the dipstick tub is stretched.

But the third is by far the worse, the rings are shot in the engine and allowing a large amount of blow by, letting you know it is time for a rebuild.

They said it was like 100. I'm not sure I'd have to re ask, sorry I know that's not very helpful. Right now the dipstick is being held in by a bungee cord :/. And if I have to rebuild I have another motor in my garage how could I find out about the rings?

donhopkins · Mar 5, 2015

Go to STM tuned by a new dipstick first, still does it, especially after compression and leak test (and the dip stick fits tightly in the tube) then I would possibly consider rings (any smoke on start up or on high RPM'S would be another clue)

Gsxskip · Mar 5, 2015

Chumpaumpalumpa said:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/

This helped tremendously, I'm looking into the pcv system now

Chumpaumpalumpa · Mar 5, 2015

Gsxskip said:
This helped tremendously, I'm looking into the pcv system now

Awesome glad to hear

BogusSVO · Mar 6, 2015

If your compression test results are "around 100 psi" Thats low for a stock engine with stock cams.

As long at the test was performed correctly.... engine warm, TB held open and all spark plugs out.

Gsxskip · Mar 6, 2015

So new development, cold start it runs fine, when it gets warm the check engine light goes on, and it drops a cylinder and I can hear a vacuum leak when it's warm but not cold

donhopkins · Mar 6, 2015

Can you determine from where abouts the leak is coming, from there go thru your vacuum lines sometimes you can have a small hole in the vacuum lines especially if they have never been replaced, best trick ive found for vaccum leaks let the car run and spray some soapy water (old windex bottle some dawn dish soap )on vacuum lines if you find bubbles or its foaming up you have found your leak (works well for finding tire leaks as well LOL

)

donhopkins · Mar 6, 2015

I assuming won't hold any boost at this point either any other symptoms prior to warm up?

Gsxskip · Mar 6, 2015

Nope, when it's cold it's fine. And for the leak I have to take engine apart Monday, it's somewhere by the IM. And once warmed up, check engine comes on and I hit the gas it gets hoppy and doesn't wanna go over 4 grand( not like I'm trying) but it builds speed like a geo metro

Bruno · Mar 6, 2015

Cool project! Goodluck with it! I love 1gs!

steve · Mar 7, 2015

Read the fault code, the ECU is trying to tell you what it thinks is bad.

I had to replace an injector that behaved like this. When cold it worked but once hot the coil inside opened up and I'd loose that cylinder. The ECU threw a 41 code for the fuel injector.

Also make sure you have a good ECU. The capacitors leak corroding the circuit board and cause various malfunctions.

The low service limit for compression is 114 psi, a good turbo engine will be around 160 psi.

donhopkins · Mar 7, 2015

If you don't have a code reader advance I believe loans them possibly pep boys, cause understandably the car prolly shouldn't be driven anywhere (towed yes) but we own a dsm so jack, jack stands, and time. Once you have the code read you can start forming a plan. I agree with Steve on that one, ecu doesn't send a check engine light for nothing

donhopkins · Mar 7, 2015

With a compression ratio that low, there is definitely and issue, can be a simple fix most of the time, bad gasket, or valve sticking be patient and don't get frustrated

Gsxskip · Mar 7, 2015

I'm not driving it at the moment, and obd 1 readers? Also I'm tearing it down tomorrow and Wednesday is the leak down and compression test

BogusSVO · Mar 7, 2015

Just what do you plan to tear down? Get you base testing done first so you have an idea where you need to go

mikehuntisitchy · Mar 10, 2015

I have a built bottom end complete long block, in case you do want to make like a 600hp 1g

.

Goodluck though!

xstrat33 · Mar 10, 2015

Gsxskip said:
ok, this is my second Mitsubishi, first was a 2003 lancer oz rally, now on to a work in progress project, a 1991 automatic Mitsubishi eclipse GSX. What they did was put a 16g turbo on it and a 3 inch exhaust from turbo back. Also a manual cpu. I bought it for 600 dollars and I already plan on a full tune-up. I feel like it's driving on 3 cylinders (feels like its missing, and quite honestly sounds like a Subaru). It takes until around 4k to build boost and then the boost makes it act goofy, also blows the dipstick out... Where do I start

GL on your project

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