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ECUflash First Flashed DSM ECU! (98/99 Flashing FAQ)

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Ceddy's website went down like 3 days ago and now is the time that I wanted to start modding/tuning my 98 GSX... :( looks like Ceddy hasnt been on in over 2 years too. That's discouraging. Is there anybody out there that can give me some pointers on tuning?
 
I have never tuned before, so I need to oearn everything first. Don't I need ceddymods to tune successfully? The website went down and I can no longer purchase it. Is there any other way I can obtain it? I almost feel like I have shown up just a minute too late to the party.
 
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That doesn't help me at all. I watched the first 2 videos and stopped because I didnt understand anything. It's like he was speaking a foreign language. I don't know what a Map is, i dont know what a rom image file is. I dont know what xml files are. I felt stupid watching a screen full of letters and numbers mashed together and listening to this guy talk about it all and not knowing what any of it means. Is there any way for me to learn from square one?
 
A basic computer class could help. I was in the same boat, I haven't started to tune yet. I am still reading on how to's, tips and what not. Now if absolutely nothing is I informative, maybe find a shop to get a tune and ask them questions.

But i have been trying to Learn how to tune for almost 1 year.

It doesn't help the ceddy mods website is down. But I do hear that DSM link is a lot more user friendly, I do think I'm going to go that rout eventually.
 
Well I did take a few computer classes in high school, but then again, none of them had anything to do with stuff like this. Yes, i do believe that ecmlink would be easier. One of my not so smart friends tunes his car with ecmlink, but I feel that going through the hassle of finding and swapping an eprom ecu for a perfectly fine 98 flashable ecu, is a little bit counterproductive. I've considered having a shop tune it for me, but the thought of paying someone between $400-500 to tune my car seems a little unreasonable. I would consider paying that much if every retune after that only cost like $50, but my local shop charges $200 for every retune. This is why I would prefer to learn the process myself. I am confident that I could, if there was somebody out there that was willing to teach me from scratch. It's frustrating.
 
Ok I understand. I'm on the same boat I don't want to put link in also when EVO scan ECU flash is basically free.

Do you pull logs? Have you opened ECU flash program? Once you pull your stock tune from the ECU and look at it in person rather then watching a movie about it, it does help. Now again I have not started to tune but I have played around with the flashing program.

Playing with the factory tune is the best way to start learning is what I have read and learned. Minor adjustments to see what it effect it will have is the way to start. Now don't do anything hasty blow up, but you can lean it out just a little and advance timing a tinny bit. And pull logs regularly, and make sure everything is safe. Then if any questions you can post your log and ask from their, more info for people to help with you know.

Time to just jump in it and do some one on one learning curve with the program.

Good luck buddy, hope someone give great how to for us. Those EVO vids do wonders as that is what we use.
 
You have to decide what the cost of learning all the details is worth to you.

ECMLink removes all the technical programming and lets you focus on actually tuning.

Reflashing today still requires you to learn the internal workings of the hardware and then you can get to the tuning part.

There is a long bunch of threads on EVOM that go into the hardware side but it's a steep hill to climb.

Figure it's going to cost you at least a couple hundred for the OpenPort 2.0 cable to start flashing a 98/99 DSM ECU. Switching to a EVO ECU will let you use the cheaper cables and reuse all the prior people's work but then you have the cost of the ECU and making/buying a adapter harness.

FYI, if you haven't already searched out the answers, a MAP sensor is a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor used to measure the vacuum or boost pressure in the intake manifold and ROM image file is the binary version of the program the ECU runs.
 
Similar to the last time this happened. If the site stays down for an extended amount of time, I could offer to put the files in a Dropbox account so people could download them, but I will not give them out if the site looks to only be down a few days. Sorry to any freeloaders out there looking for the complete set of files for free right off the bat.
 
Pulled up some Cached pages from Ceddy's Site. This is basically all you need to know to get the ball rolling.

Code:
Tuning is as much an art as science.
Here are some of the methods I use with success, others my take a different approach.
Equipment
The minimum equipment required are:
  Laptop/NetBook
  Cable
  Logger
  WideBand
Laptop/NetBook
As long your Laptop is powerful enough to run Windows XP, it is good enough for logging.
I have a old 500 Mhz, 256 MB Laptop I use.  Its very slow to load, but logs just fine.
Cable
The OpenPort 2.0 cable is needed for Flashing, and can be used for logging also.
The VAG 409.1 cables can be had on ebay for less then $20.
I often use one of these for logging because:
  They’re cheap.  Don’t worry about being broken or stolen.
  They’re faster.  Because it isn’t a Pass-Thru design, it is 10-20% faster then the OpenPort 2.0
  They’re compatible, use same FTDI chip set as OpenPort 1.3.  Just select OpenPort 1.3 in EvoScan
  They’re rugged.  I always worry about bumping my 2.0 cable and breaking it, or yanking the USB cable.
Logger
EvoScan is pretty much the standard for logging.  Its affordable and does a lot.
Wideband
When selecting a WideBand a few things should be taken into consideration.
  Minimum AFR reading.  Many WideBands are geared toward NA cars, and won’t read below 10:1 AFR.
  Serial Logging.  Logging WideBand is a must.  EvoScan supports: Innovate LC-1 and LM-1, AEM UEGO, and Zeitronix ZT-2.
  Replacement Sensor cost.
I have the Innovate LC-1 and XD-16 Gauge.  While it isn’t perfect, I think its the best out there at an affordable price.
I have heard from others that the Zeitronix is a very good unit.
AEM seems to make changes to their WideBand frequently, so if you are not using it with a AEM EMS it can be troublesome to configure.
95% of EvoScan users with WideBand logging issues are AEM owners, check some of the Evo forums.
People who use the analog output complain that the voltage formula is different in units manufactured at different times.
Methods
There are two schools of thought on setting up your injectors:
That your AFR readings should match your Fuel Map, then get Fuel Trims as close as possible.
Or
That Fuel Trims should be perfect, and that AFR readings are going to be offset from the Fuel Map and not match up.
I’m of the first school of though, our Fuel Maps have a nice AFR scaling so why not use it to make tuning easier.
If things are not perfect at idle the Front O2 Sensor will take over and fix it, that is why its there.
Because the fuel pump flow isn’t linear(flow rate changes with fuel pressure) and your fuel system may have restrictions at high flow rates, you are not going to get AFR to match perfectly in every cell.
But you can get close, so its within a 1/10 point or so.
Base Settings
The first step is find your Base Settings.
The best way is to find someone with the same injectors and copy their settings.
I have some example settings at the bottom of the page.
Injector Scaling
Injector Scaling is the flow rate of the injector.
To change, press = , then enter the new value.
Evo Injector Scaling
The Evos guys use a different Scaling then I use for the DSMs.
For example an EVO site will give the flow of stock 450s as 424, but DSM sites say 450.
Another example is they give the Evo8 560cc flow as 513, but you would use 560 with a DSM.
If you wish to use a value you get from a Evo site you need change the scaling.
First Right Click and select Edit Map.
Then click InjectorScalingDSM and change it to InjectorScalingEvo.
Injector Latency
Injector Latency or DeadTime, is the amount of time it takes for an injector to open after voltage has been applied to it.
The reason for the 2D table with different voltages, is it takes longer for the injector to open at lower voltages.
To change a value in the Latency table, select a value then press = , and enter the new value.
Often only one value is given for Latency, not the whole table.
For example .330, this value must be added to every item in the table.
First do Edit -> Select All
Then Edit -> Add to Data, and enter 0.330, and hit Enter.
WOT Tuning (Injector Scaling)
Once you get your Base Settings fairly close, its time to get your WOT AFRs to match.
You should get a log of:
  Load
  RPM
  TPS
  AFR Map
  WideBand
AFR Map is the AFR the ecu is aiming for.
You need to compare AFR Map to WideBand.
  If WideBand is richer, Injector Scaling should be increased.
  If WideBand is leaner, Injector Scaling should be decreased.
The only areas of the log you should look at are when you are WOT, in Boost, and in Open Loop.
This happens when Load is greater then 100 and TPS is greater then 80%
Because there is a few feet distance between your injectors and WideBand sensor, your AFR Map and WideBand readings will not line up.
The WideBand will lag behind a second or so.
To remedy this you can make all your AFRs above 100 Load the same AFR.
This way you do not need to try match cells with different AFRs and take into account the WideBand lagging behind.
Idle Tuning (Injector Latency)
After you have WOT dialed in, its time to get your Fuel Trims correct.
One Fuel Trim cycle takes about 4 minutes, and it takes about four cycles for the trims to max out.
So you should let you car idle for 16 minutes(4 minutes x 4), then get a log of:
  Fuel Trim Low (LTFT)
  Fuel Trim Mid (LTFT)
  Fuel Trim High (LTFT)
  Oxygen FeedBack Trim (STFT)
  Oxygen Sensor
  MAF Hz
  RPM
  Battery Level
Take a look at your log, Oxygen Sensor voltage should be cycling from 0.1 to 0.9 volts every second or so.
If it is stuck and not cycling your Base Settings are off and need to be adjusted.
Take a look at your Fuel Trims, Fuel Trim Low is the only one that should be adjusting.
  If Fuel Trim Low is positive, Injector Latency needs to be increased.
  If Fuel Trim Low is negative, Injector Latency needs to be decreased.
You should increase or decrease the whole Injector Latency table by the same amount.
+/- 5% is considered close enough.  0% is a unattainable goal.
+/- 12.5% is the Trims maximum, it won’t go any higher or lower.
Cruise and Fine Tuning (MAF Smoothing)
With Idle and WOT tuning done your injectors should be dialed in pretty good.
But there may times during low load cruising and transition out of idle and into WOT that things may not be perfect.
This is where the MAF Smoothing table comes into play.
MAF Smoothing adds or subtracts extra fuel at different MAF Hz levels.
If you ever used a SAFC, it functions very similarly.
Get a log, while cruising, like a trip on the highway.
You want to stay in Closed Loop, so light on the throttle and RPMs under 4000.
Keep everything steady for about 16 minutes if you can.
Log the same items as for Idle:
  Fuel Trim Low (LTFT)
  Fuel Trim Mid (LTFT)
  Fuel Trim High (LTFT)
  Oxygen FeedBack Trim (STFT)
  Oxygen Sensor
  MAF Hz
  RPM
  Battery Level
Now we will have a look at the different Fuel Trims.
Open up Fuel Trim Control Points.
This tells you at which MAF Hz, the Fuel Trims, Low, Mid, and High switch.
In stock form:
Mid turns on when above 112 Hz, and Low turns on when below 100.
We take the average of these two and get 106 Hz.
So, Low = 0 to 106 Hz
Now we look at the next two points, Mitsubishi did something tricky here, they set them both to 1594 Hz.
What this does is it never lets High turn on.
Now we know, Mid = 106 to 1594 Hz, and High = Disabled.
So we have:
  Low = 0 to 106 Hz
  Mid = 106 to 1594 Hz
  High = Disabled
Now we can take a look at our log.
Fuel Trim Low should be near zero, if not go back to Idle Tuning.
Fuel Trim High will be zero, since it is disabled.
Fuel Trim Mid is what we want to look at, if you kept your driving steady MAF Hz should stay in a small range.
  If Fuel Trim Mid is positive, MAF Smoothing needs to be increased.
  If Fuel Trim Mid is negative, MAF Smoothing needs to be decreased.
Only change the area of the MAF Smoothing table that your MAF Hz are in.
Then get more logs at different MAF Hz level, until you are satisfied everything is perfect.
All done!!!
Injector Base Settings
Injector Brand ---------- Flow ------------------ mSec
1G/2G ------------------- 450 ------------------- 0
Clinic 750 -------------- 750 ------------------ .330
Clinic 850 -------------- 850 ------------------ .330
Clinic 950 -------------- 950 ------------------ .330
Delphi 680 -------------- 680 ------------------ .210
Denso 660 --------------- 660 ------------------ .180
Denso 720 --------------- 720 ------------------ .405 - .450
FIC 650 ----------------- 650 ------------------ .210
FIC 750 ----------------- 750 ------------------ .315 - .330
FIC 850 ----------------- 850 ------------------ .315 - .330
FIC 950 ----------------- 950 ------------------ .315 - .330
Hahn RC 625 ------------- 530 ------------------ .180
ND 560(Evo8) ---------- 560 - 575-------------- -.048
ND 660 ------------------ 660 ------------------ .180
PTE 580 ----------------- 535 ------------------ .180
PTE 680 ----------------- 640 ------------------ .288 - .300
PTE 780 ----------------- 748 ------------------ .300 - .315
PTE 880 ----------------- 840 ------------------ .420
PTE 1000 ---------------- 940 ------------------  ???
RC 550 ------------------ 550 ------------------ .180
Speed Density Setup and Tuning
Under Construction – Not Finished Yet!
General Info
My Speed Density system is based on the Evo8/9 system written by JCSBanks.  Big thanks goes to him for coming up with the idea and starting it all.
A few improvements and changes have been made in order to port it to the H8 ecus.
The most notable improvement is the use of a 3D Volumetric Efficiency map.
The original Evo8/9 Speed Density used two 2D maps, one VE vs Boost, and one VE vs RPM.
While this is sufficient 99% of the time and makes tuning much simpler, there are some situations where a 3D map is necessary.  One example is when maxing a turbo out its compressor map efficiency will rapidly drop, there isn’t an easy
way to compensate for this VE change without a 3D map.
Another improvement is the ability to log VE.  This allows you with the MAF still in place to log VE and make you VE map for Speed Density.
There are two main maps used for Speed Density, SD MAP Calibration and SD Volumetric Efficiency.
SD MAP Calibration is the most important table for Speed Density.
It is what transforms Boost(MAP) into Load(MAF).
The above table is for a 3 BAR setup.
kPa should equal Load for every division.
SD Volumetric Efficiency modifies the Load calculated in the SD MAP Calibration table.
It increases or decreases the final Load depending on engine RPM and Boost.
Simplified the equation that turns Speed Density into the MAF Load units the ecu expects is:
Load = kPa x VE%
Hardware Setup
There are two stages of hardware setup.
The first is with your MAF still in place and a MAP sensor connected.  This allows you to log VE and build your VE maps.
The second is full Speed Density, with a MAP sensor connected, and a IAT sensor connected instead of the MAF.
MAP Sensor
Any 5 volt MAP Sensor can be used, but to make things easier for yourself you should use one of the sensors below that the scaling for has already been added.
DSM – The MAP Sensor replaces the stock MDP Sensor.  It should be plugged or wired into the MDP connector.
  +5 volt — Green with Yellow Stripe wire.
  Ground — Black wire.
  Signal — Light Green with Black Stripe wire.
Evo5/6 -  … to be added later …
  Part Numbers
  GM 3 BAR — 29 psi — (Nipple type)
  Old Number – 16040749
  New Number – 12223861
  Omni 3 BAR — 29 psi  — (Plug and Play type)
  MAP-MITS-3BR
  Evo10/JDM 3.3 BAR — 33 psi — (Plug and Play type)
  ?
  AEM/Kavlico 3.5 BAR — 36 psi — (Threaded type)
  30-2130-50
  Omni 4 BAR — 43 psi — (Plug and Play type)
  MAP-MITS-4BR
  AEM/Kavlico 5 BAR — 58 psi — (Threaded type)
  30-2130-75
IAT Sensor
An IAT sensor replaces the MAF’s stock temp sensor when switching to full Speed Density.
DSM – A GM IAT sensor is wired into the MAF connector’s pins 5 and 6.  Pin 8 is empty for reference.
Evo5/6 -  … to be added later …
  Part Numbers
  GM IAT
  25036751
  Pig Tail
  12102620
  Bung
  3/8 NPT
Software Setup
The DSMs by default are set up for the GM 3 BAR.  If you are using a different MAP sensor you must change some setting in EcuFlash.
For this example we will be using a Omni 4 BAR.
First do a Right Click on SD MAP Calibration, and Edit Map…
Then click Scaling for the Y Axis, and select MAP 10 Bit (Omni 4 BAR).
Now you will notice, since we changed the Scaling the MAP axis is messed up.  And since we are now using a 4 BAR sensor we will need to change the Load as well.
Load needs to equal MAP at each division.  Rescaled for 4 BAR it would look like this:
 
I sure hope ceddy has his website back up. I had all of the roms and stuff downloaded and well my comp crashed and no files but one. I just figured out that you can in deed flash with a vagcom cable so thats good news 20$ cable and solder a wire in to it. If anybody can help with the files i would greatly appreciate it alot. Thank's and if i found out how to get the files i will let everybody kn thank's alot.
 
Would you still need the openport cable to scan/log ?

I was just on evoscan's website and purchased their evoscan software and reflash connector "2$ but shipping was 10$ :( ",
they had a ceddy rom on it, which I was able to load into ecuflash and see it's in fact ceddymods. Not the big maps thou :(
I really hope ceddy will chime in, post the roms/maps and allow us to use his work since he's no longer working with it!
I will still donate via paypal for these files!
 
I would still gladly donate too. I'm not trying to be a freeloader at all. I would just like to learn how to tune and from whay I understand, ceddymods makes re flashing somewhat more simplified and closer to how link works? At this point, I'm considering just having my car tuned ay a dyno shop. I would prefer being able to do it myself, and also am considering doing an ecu swap so I can run link. Though I would prefer to not change anything unnecessary on my car... I feel like swapping a perfectly fine flashable ecu for eprom and link would be like removing my factory radio to install am older factory radio... it seems like an ecu swap would be it's own project, and who's to say I won't be any less lost looking at the dsmlink interface than I would be looking at the ecuflash interface? Maybe I am just over thinking it.
 
Email Cedric at [email protected]. Tell him you are willing to purchase the files legitimately, and mention that his site is down. He should reply in a timely manner. That's how I got the files last time this happened.

Also to anyone that purchased the files but has lost them, I would be willing to send you the files provided you show me the receipt for your purchase.
 
I'm using Ceddy's files (ceddymods). I'm running his full blown package, big maps, etc. I would have a hard time telling someone that it will make tuning any easier, it's still everything that would be in a factory ROM, but with more handles (adjustability) added in. If someone can't tune/understand the original ROM, they will still be in the same boat. The fuel and timing maps are the same, just bigger.

Please don't think that I'm being an ass, I'm just trying to share honest information. I'm kind of in the same boat. I know what all the maps and parameters are, but I'm just not sure when to adjust what, when to adjust them and why you would adjust them. ......without blowing up the engine.

When I bought them, Ceddy's asked me for a complete list of mods, what was done and parts I was running. He sent me a safe base tune that would run. I've tweeked from there, but I am always very conservative.

I would love to get it on a Dino and get a real tune, BUT, most of the tuning shops scare me! I've heard too many cases of "oops, sorry the engine blew....sometimes that happens when you mod a car.....we can't be responsible"

I think one needs to read, read and proceed with caution.
 
Its not really that difficult once you have played with the program for a few days.

That is completely true. The program is easy to use....even for me being "not a windows person" I think the thing is more of the actual tuning process. There is an art to getting the ultimate balance of all the adjustable parameters....without blowing up your engine. Timing particularly scares me, I feel like I can do a lot of damage there.
 
For me, I would just like a tune for my car to run properly with the mods I plan on running. I'm not planning on making a track car, or pushing my engine anywhere near it's limits. At least not until I have it built with forged internals. I plan on running a fp 68hta turbo with FIC 950 cc injectors, wally 255 and aeromotive fpr, a full 3 inch ebay turbo back exhaust, and a cxracing fmic. My goal is a fully streetable summer DD pushing 360 awhp, with room for growth. That is my goal for this summer. The dyno shop near me is highly reputable. They are called "Boostin Performance" and specialize in evo and DSM builds. My budget for this summer is going to be around $4500, next summer, my budget will probably be closer to 12k, so that is when I will be building a 2.3 stroker and having my entire drivetrain built. That being said, am I simply overthinking how involved my tune will need to be for now? Should I just be concerned with making sure my AFR's are straight?
 
You really dont need a 2.3, they have proven to be less reliable than the 2.0 and for your goals the 2.0 would work fine. Datalog your car and add timing in the desired areas until you start to see knock and then you know your knock threshold.
 
My goal for this summer is not going to be the same goal next year. Building a 2.3 is part of next year's plan for when I would Like to break 500 hp. I don't want to stray away from the topic though. I would feel more comfortable making the commitment and buying the open port cable and ecuflash if I knew that I wouldnt end up being totally lost without a clue as to what to do. Like I said, I have never tuned before at all. I feel stupid saying that I dont even know what I would need to do to add timing or how to log data. This is unexplored territory for me.
 
I actively tune with this method and It's my daily and I'm fairly comfortable with with program so I'll try and help anyone with any questions they have. I'm running 650cc injectors with a 20g running 20psi 11.5:1 a WOT with no knock. so I've got it figured out pretty good. I also have a 6bold block and 2g head in my 99 so I've had to deal with some issues but got everything worked out so I'm confident that I can help you guys out with tuning!

Not trying to toot my horn, just trying to prove that I know how to work the program and I'm alive and still using this.
 
That's good to know! After doing some more readinf, it looks like I will be taking the flash Route. Going to save money for another month or so and continue my research and then begin ordering my parts to begin the build. Hopefully I'll be starting the build at the end of april. Trogador, I will be sure to keep in touch with you so that I have somebody to help me. I'm glad this many people have given input. I was starting to feel like this subject was dying off.
 
It's definitely the cheaper way to go. and you can get the same results as Link but you just have to learn a little more. Feel free to ask any questions! Just ask them in here so other people can benefit also! also to save some money try looking for an openport 2.0 used on the evo and subaru forums. i got mine on a subi forum for $80 LOL and black boxes go for cheap on ebay all the time too.
 
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