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1G Where do the 2 alternator plug wires run to in the engine fuse box?

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TeamFury

15+ Year Contributor
702
467
Mar 5, 2008
Fort Bragg, North_Carolina
Can anyone tell me where the alternator plug wires connect to in the engine bay fuse box? I did a battery relocation and it keeps blowing my circuit breaker 200 amps when I put a light load on it at idle. I used 0 gauge from the battery directly to the alternator, and a 0 gauge ground in the trunk. I have checked to make sure voltage drop is correct only drops .3 volts at the alternator when I turn on lights and a/c, but then it pops 3-5 seconds later. I swapped in a brand new alternator and it does the same exact thing. Had them bench tested and they are good. I am not sure if I need to run a ground from the battery to the starter ground maybe? But if someone could that has done a fuse box relocation could tell me where the alternator plug wires connect to in the engine bay fuse box that would be a great start.
 
The alternator is on the body harness that goes to the 80A fuse in the main dist. box. That fuse box went directly to the positive anode on the battery, along with the ECU harness (where the mpi/fan/ignition relay is connected to it). The starter had its own positive from the anode as well.

The main ground went from battery anode then wye-d to firewall and transmission bolt.
 
You didn't read my question. I am not asking about the power wires or if I have my ground wire correct. I have a 4 gauge power wire directly to the alternator from the battery. A 0 gauge goes to a distribution block in the engine bay that powers the fuse box. I need to know about the actual plug 2 PRONG PLUG WIRES, where do they connect in the main engine bay fuse box.
 
I'm not sure. B-18 and B-19 are the terminals that go to the Alternator, and I can't find them in the circuit diagrams. It does show the main fuse box runs to the alternator twice, once with the main 80a fuse "b-terminal" and again with a 30a fuse "s-terminal"

May I ask why you ran from battery all the way around the engine bay to the alternator ? When you only had to connect it to the main fuse box (which is already connected to the alternator). You may have created some sort of short circuit the way you did it.
 
Because the stock 1G 25 year old 8 gauge wires needed to be replaced and 99% of people that do a battery relocation run a brand new wire. I relocated the battery and ran a brand new wire from the battery directly to the alternator, right at the fire wall to alternator which is shorter than the stock wires that go all the way in front of the radiator. I have a alternator relocation kit. It can't be a short in my power wire because I even swapped the 0 gauge wire to the alternator and it does the same thing. I have checked to make sure that something didn't cut into either of the wires and is causing it to short out. I didn't have this problem before the battery relocation. I'm just going to run a ground from the battery to the starter ground and see if that helps.
 
http://simon.chi.il.us/~steve/Auto/DSM/1GDSMWiring.html (tanks Steve for the picture...)

As you can see from the diagram those two wires are going from the voltage regulator to the sub fusible link (yellow, at the 30A popup fuse#4) and to the combination meter/ alternator relay (black & white). Did you disconnect the original alternator-to-sub fusible link wires when you relocated the battery? Running those cables to the battery from the alternator without a properly sized fuse as a protection is a bad idea, a bad alternator/voltage regulator can spike and damage your battery as a result. Not sure if I answered your question but the diagram should anyway.
 
Awesome that is exactly what I needed. I had a 90 amp fuse,100 amp fuse and they kept blowing after the car was running. Then I tried just running the circuit breaker which is 200 amps and that popped. I am wondering if when I removed the stock alternator power wires that I somehow cut into one of the plug wires. I just wanted to check the power at the fuse box where those wires are to see if they are shorting out there. This way I can at least run 2 new wires to the alternator plug until I can pull the radiator off and remove the bad wires. I don't know if those could cause the problem I am having but I am out of ideas. I have been searching through the online manuals of the wiring but not the best pictures to read. Again thank you serviceguy the diagram is perfect for what I am looking for.
 
@TeamFury I'd like to know how you resolve the issue once you get it figured out. And that pic is much nicer than scrolling back and forth between 5 different pages in the EL-FSM!
 
Well ran new wires from the fuse box directly to the alternator plug no change. Ran a ground wire directly from battery to starter ground no difference. I am starting to think that something is internally wrong with the voltage regulator. The guy bench tested it and says it's good but who knows. I have traced everything ran different wires nothing changes. I hate being stationed in Italy because I have to wait 10-14 days to get fricken parts for the car!
 
Did you check the continuity between the terminals of the 80A and the others fuses on the same strip?

Oops, forget about it, I was thinking of another thread with a related problem!
 
There is one thing I forgot to check, the circuit breaker itself. I bought it off of ebay they said it was a scosche maybe it's a Chinese version. If the voltage regulator was failing I would likely be seeing overcharging, which it doesn't. Battery voltage stays at 14.1-14.3 at idle. When I turn on the headlights and a/c it drops down to like 13.4-13.5 for less than a second and jumps right back to normal operating volts then pops. Maybe I will go and buy a ANL fuse and connect a 100 or 120 amp fuse. I have read some reviews where they had faulty circuit breakers right out of the box. I have to wait like 2 minutes after the circuit breaker pops for it to reset. Does that sound right?
 
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1 - Ok using new bigger wire, but I would stick to the stock design regardless the length of the cable. How is your sub fusible link connected to the alternator and battery exactly? Without an updated diagram of your electrical system is hard to point out what the problem is. Do you have any additional electrical load on top of the stock system?

2 - Can you tell if it's the breaker going off ? What type of breaker are we talking about? Looks like it could be bad from the sound of it. Keep in mind that the fuse (rather than the breaker) are in place for a reason, too much of a fuse amperage and you are not protecting your electrical systems. A blown fuse is not the problem, it's what tells you there is a problem.
 
I wired it according to loftys write-up. The only thing that I changed electrically was CD player and autometer volt water temp oil pressure and boost pressure gauges all mechanical oh and a lc-1 wideband. I don't have a system with a amp or hid headlights. I removed a.c system years ago. All the emissions crap has been gone act. There is no strange behavior when I watch my voltage gauge or when monitoring link that's why it just seems weird. After doing a lot of searching people have said they have been bad right out of the box or took a crap a few days after install. Initially it worked for 3 days when I did the relocation then started this. That's when I swapped the alternator for brand new one same problem. This would also explain that when bench tested both passed.
 
Its a scosche 12 volt 200 amp manual one. Yes it trips and when I try to reset it the arm will not lock back in for 1-2 minutes after it trips. There is no way that can be right. I am not having any other issues at all with anything else. There are no other random fuses blowing. Continuity is good. I have no parasitic drain happening. Voltage drop is correct. Alternator plug wires are good. Power wires are good not shorted anywhere. I am going to pick up another fuse block shortly I will report back with results after removing the c.b
 
Well I swapped in a ANL Fuse block with a 150AMP fuse, they did not have anything smaller. Problem is no longer there. So the Circuit Breaker was the culprit and I have a backup alternator haha. My voltage actually gained .2 volts at idle and idle is much smoother. I don't think there is a way to test a circuit breaker unless I disassemble it. But at least if anyone else runs into this problem make sure your circuit breaker is operating correctly, I am sticking to fuses and my main battery cut off switch from here on out. Thanks for the help gentlemen.
 
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