No problem man. Want to help people as much as I can plus I didnt want to see you waste time and money. Good luck on the build

Got it all pulled apart yesterday. The rod bearings seemed to have slightly scratched the crank, So I am looking at getting it turned at the machine shop. Not to worried about it if I can take off just .010, because i'm not planning on running super high hp. New mains and rod bearings will be ordered soon.

you'll be lucky to get 300 with those mods, you'll be right at 300 but the good thing about our cars is they usually have matching torque (until you get above 500-600)
I have full bolt ons and on 19lbs i got right at 300/300, with a retune i'll be maybe 300-330 from my intake manifold and more boost. i guess my point is don't be disappointed by a hp number cause these cars haul ass

mods were meant to only make 300 at the beginning anyways. 400 is for after i've played with the car, and probably gotten a different DD

So the head was previously worked on, and had been milled down before and was 0.011 under spec.
0.051 is our original gasket thickness, meaning to get a gasket before he mills it for me would need to be about 0.062. The next cometic gasket size is 0.066, leaving him 0.004 to work with to mill head level and stay within spec. I'm having him order me a Cometic 0.070 MLS gasket to return back to spec, and he can take off 0.008" to level and mill the head.
One question I have about this though... will I need to get adjustable Cam Gears to fix timing, or will the thicker head gasket bring it back within limits for timing?

I am getting the Crank turned 0.010 over, and ordering ACL race bearings to fit the 0.010 taken off.

I had 8 valves bent on the head, idk if I had already posted that, but none of the guides broke.

Also, I decided on keeping the Balance shafts and just getting an OEM belt for it. The reduction of vibrations will be better for my drivetrain in the long run, and the loss in power is negligible. As long as I keep up on making sure the belt isn't going bad, and performing proper maintenance, it will be better for the car.

Anthony_2gnt said:

So the head was previously worked on, and had been milled down before and was 0.011 under spec.
0.051 is our original gasket thickness, meaning to get a gasket before he mills it for me would need to be about 0.062. The next cometic gasket size is 0.066, leaving him 0.004 to work with to mill head level and stay within spec. I'm having him order me a Cometic 0.070 MLS gasket to return back to spec, and he can take off 0.008" to level and mill the head.

I am getting the Crank turned 0.010 over, and ordering ACL race bearings to fit the 0.010 taken off.

I had 8 valves bent on the head, idk if I had already posted that, but none of the guides broke.

Also, I decided on keeping the Balance shafts and just getting an OEM belt for it. The reduction of vibrations will be better for my drivetrain in the long run, and the loss in power is negligible. As long as I keep up on making sure the belt isn't going bad, and performing proper maintenance, it will be better for the car.

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The loss in power isnt really why you replace those, so much as to have more consistant oil pressure and one less rotating part to go bad. If you're worried about vibrations get a fluidampr or ATI, they do more to reduce vibration than the balance shafts do. Personally I can hardly tell the difference between my old car, which was a stock longblock with balance shafts and my new one, which is a built 2.4 with them eliminated. The 2.4 has a fluidampr though, and the 2.0 was completely stock. Just my thought on it.

bmxfelon420 said:

The loss in power isnt really why you replace those, so much as to have more consistant oil pressure and one less rotating part to go bad. If you're worried about vibrations get a fluidampr or ATI, they do more to reduce vibration than the balance shafts do. Personally I can hardly tell the difference between my old car, which was a stock longblock with balance shafts and my new one, which is a built 2.4 with them eliminated. The 2.4 has a fluidampr though, and the 2.0 was completely stock. Just my thought on it.

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Imagine having balance shafts, and a fluidampr

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts
this is why I decided to keep them. And it actually makes sense to me in the physics world.

I agree I kept mine too. Mitsubishi installed them for a reason is how I see it. Plus my budget had no room for the additional cost of balancing everything. If I were to do a elimination I would atleast do the balance shaft kit , I would go with the GSC kit. Looks like it supports the oil pump way better than a stub shaft Will

oren hughbanks said:

I agree I kept mine too. Mitsubishi installed them for a reason is how I see it. Plus my budget had no room for the additional cost of balancing everything. If I were to do a elimination I would atleast do the balance shaft kit , I would go with the GSC kit. Looks like it supports the oil pump way better than a stub shaft Will

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Very true. My car is kind of a special build. If it will help, here's what I considered before making my decision:

- I have a 2.4 NA block, so no squirters. I wanted the extra oil pressure to everything critical
-Its not only stroked, but automatic. It wont see high rpm really
-Due to the extra torque and stress I had the crank and rods/pistons balanced

Now in your case, on stock bore/stroke in a MT you can make more power at higher rpm. So the oil pump being supported helps. Not to mention stock rotating parts are heavier and can make more vibration in the first place. So any help is an asset there.

That being said, if I were you I'd have everything balanced. Its cheap insurance while its tore down. It can only help.

4g63 is already very well balanced from the factory and I totally agree if you can get it done, balance it all even better. I do like the Jack's website for info. I even kept my factory flywheel. Cause I figure in my tsi it's already a unhappy trans with almost 170k on it. , now that I'll be putting 350 to 400hp through it, I want to do everything I can to save it from excessive vibrations.

Sooooo, it's been a bit for an update. Got my head back awhile ago and it's pretty gorgeous how shiny it is. The block is in being decked and hot tanked now for the cometic mls head gasket. Just bought plenty of parts, but sort of had to go budget as I have been helping my parents out with a lot of money and school is draining. I have a complete gasket overhaul kit for the engine, along with a gates timing belt kit (did research on them and it seemed quality from reviews on forums) OEM timing belt, and OEM tensioner. Oh and a gates water pump.
Now the fun stuff is.... I didn't think it was possible for a person to ruins this engine like they did. The crank was completely scratched up, and when I took it in to get turned while the block was being decked, the machinist told me it had already been cut -0.020 before Luckily SliderMonkey here on the forums is pretty aweseome and I worked out a deal to get a good uncut crank from him and I am excited for it to come in the mail. Also ordered some ARP head studs.

Some ACL race rod and main bearings on their way as well.
So all in all I have... had the head rebuilt, Milled, and gotten a cometic head gasket. Deck blocked, new race bearings, new crank. All new gaskets and seals for the engine, and arp head botls. New water pump, pulley, timing belt, and tensioner.

I will need a new half shaft for the drivers side since the threads sorta got stripped getting it out of the hub.... oops . \

Then It will be put back together and I can pray to god that it works

Works finally starting again

So I've actually got the car all back together, and have been working on it quite a bit, but with school and work and everything, I havent had time to upgrade my journal here.

Basically, when reassembling my block, I didn't run into any problems, everything micd out how it should have, and went pretty smoothly. I cleaned and painted the block a darker metallic color, along with the valve cover. Cleaned miscellaneous parts that I was reusing. Mostly covers. And the t-case took awhile from all the previous owners oil leaks.
Ive got a rebuilt s16g arriving tomorrow that jusmx actually rebuilt for me. (Awesome guy to deal with BTW). Along with the oil line he recommend with the restrictor. extreme psis intake kit with a k&n filter coming in. Manual boost controller and ngr bov will be in soon as well. As soon as those are all here, if all goes well, should fired up. But we all know that hardly ever works that way. Essentially its all done, I'm just waiting to boLt on a couple parts, trouble shoot what I did wrong with wiring most likely. And then be on my way.
Unfortunately I didn't get to clean up all of my parts as well as I wanted to, as I've been in a little more of a hurry to get this car on the road. Using a loaner car at the moment. probably around spring break I'll hopefully get a sand blaster and just take some primer and paint to a few parts and rust areas.
Fmic is the next big upgrade, along with DSM link v3 S well.
i should have some pics around. I took them sporadically, so I'll try to add those.

Picture s

And she purrs

After first start, which just a quick start up to see if it would start, I found that I need to fix a couple leaks. One of them coming from a transmission oil coiling line, and one coolant line. Then I will break her in, not sure on the method yet. And perform a leak down test.