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1990 Eagle Talon Sleeper

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Luckily for you, there should be an instructional video up within a few weeks to make the process pretty straight forward. Its really not hard especially if you know what you are looking for.
 
Thank you to those of you who have rated my vehicle profile. It is now the top rated 1G DSM profile on DSMtuners. :applause::D:thumb:

If you find this information useful and you like the way its displayed, please take the time to RATE and Like the vehicle profile. http://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/1990-eagle-talon.11526/ Look to the right under quick stats and click the number of stars you think my thread is worth and you can also click the like button next to the cover image. This will help others easily find useful information. :D

Its that time where car enthusiasts start to tear down there motors for the winter. If this is you, this video will show you how to properly care for your injectors so that the ferrous metal parts inside your injectors do not rust/corrode causing you issues and money next season.


Can you elaborate on what is needed to make the fuel injector c just not what that tube is called and how it connects to the injector! Thanks
 
Yes I can. Click the title of the video and it will take you over to youtube. Look in the description and you will see a video where I made my injector cleaner. I made that video some time ago so the quality is not the same but you get to see the construction. You will also see other references that I used during this process.
 
Thank you all for the kind words.

@jamel16 I’m no genius by far. It’s the magic of editing that is playing tricks on you. ROFL
 
sorry if I missed it, ive seen most of your youtube stuff before I found your build journal, but why did you pull the engine? just refreshing or blow it up?
 
Its been more than 4 years with hundreds of drag passes. I learned to tune on this setup and it probably saw a little more abuse than it should. I didn’t do a few things years ago that I should had.

To sum it up, this is an exploratory dissection. The motor did not experience a failure. It will receive a few new parts but I expect to re-use a lot of whats there.
 
that's awesome, good to hear.im also gonna learn how to tune on this engine im building.
 
Very informal.. may I ask where I might be able to read about this proccess? I'm having trouble keeping up with what you are saying and want to understand what every step is and why it's done and best ways to do such and just generally understanding the proccess being this is my field of work and turbo dohc are new to me (usually working on racing v8s) any links or advise where to research The info? And no I haven't tried Google searching just yet but I know even searching you tend to find a lot of different info yours seems very detailed is why I'm asking. Thanks
 
To answer the short of the question, there is no single location that contains this information in a written form that I am aware of.

Understanding why its done involves understanding the basic operation of a camshaft lobe.

The manufacture offers a cam card with their specifications. In most cases, installing them straight up will result in a cam that does not perform as its intended because the opening and closing events are not happening at the correct time.

I read more than a dozen threads in various places along with multiple youtube videos to gather the information I did about the process. There is another youtuber by the name of Jafromobile and he has a similar video (which is where I got some of my ideas) that may clear up some of your questions.

Lastly, if you have some questions after you do some research, I would be glad to help you through PM.
 
Thanks I appriciate that advice and most likely will call on you closer too the time I'm doing it as well after I have done some of my own research
 
Precision measuring tools play a vital role in the inspection and assembly of your shortblock. Read the description of the video for more info. Comment, like and subscribe here on DSMtuners and over on Youtube.

 
Being a machinest I couldn't help but notice when you were explaining the mic measurements 1.7000 in that area don't remember er exact number you stated you showed each line as 25 thousands which we know is correct but on the barrel you stated 1.7500 it won't be on .050 until zero is on the line I Seen in at around 20 maybe 22 srry to pick it out but was throwing me off when you said it LOL
 
If its the measurement at 3:22 in the video, the lighting was not the best and I tried to pause the video with a still shot so you get a better view but there are two .025" marks showing. If it was rotated out another .005, it would expose the 3rd tick mark.
 
Gonna have to back to this when its time to degree my kelford 272's.

how much power do you think you have pushed through that vsrf IC and what have your iat's been?
 
The VRSF IC has been long overdue for an upgrade. Its just not up to the task of the HX35 at higher boost pressures. My AIT’s would raise 50-55 degrees during an 11 - 12 second pass.
 
As I would imagine.i just wish they made a bigger core at a similar price for the kit, because the price is ridicously good.

Any ideas on replacement?i was thinking ill bite the bullet and just the ets race kit.
 
Plan out your work and then make your choice. Each setup is different but I will be installing an ETS setup when she goes back together.
 
This update has been long overdue. To be honest, I have enough footage to produce 13 more videos at this point but I just don’t have time to sit down and edit them. The amount of time that goes into the actual edits at least equals the time it takes to do the job in most cases.

Anyway, I have completely blueprinted the block and head. I found .0015” tapper in my number 3 cylinder. This made my piston to wall clearance .006” which is 1.5 times the recommended .004” PTW from weisco for their 1400 HD. A few of the valve to guide clearances are grossly oversized and the cam bearing surfaces are pretty scuffed up. I have obtained a new stock longblock that will be sent out for machining hopefully this week or the next.

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Now for the engine bay. I have pulled every nut and bolt so that it is only a frame from the firewall forward. The engine bay has been stitch welded and I am in the process of filling all the holes that I do not plan to utilize in order to make a cleaner bay. Various unused bracketts have been removed using a spot weld drill bit. The old spray paint will be removed then she will get epoxy primer, a little filler where necessary, block sand, primer surfacer, sand, color, and clear.

To avoid a lot of contamination from the backsides of the welds, I also cleaned the wheel wells and removed all the seam sealer.

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This was just the start of the stitch welding.

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The wiring harness has been pulled and de-loomed. We will be rerouting this once the bay is finished and primed to protect it from the elements.

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Lastly, the dash has been pulled along with everything else underneath it. This was to make the welding and painting a no hassle job. We also needed to get to the wiring harness and remove some sound deadener.

This picture still shows the steering column and a few other items still in tact but all of that has been removed now.

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For the most part, that wraps up this little update. There is a lot going on here in the garage but I will keep this thread updated with some sneak peak pictures between video updates.
 
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Small update as the work continues to keep going. I managed to get all the unwanted holes in the firewall filled and sanded down.
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Tonight I made my last round of things to fix/remove and all of these should be done tomorrow. After that is sandblasting and primer.

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One thing you need when sandblasting and shooting paint is Dry air (and a bigger compressor than the one I have :p) so I put an intercooler on my air compressor. Everything in my garage gets performance upgrades :)

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