1G exhaust leaks questions

ErikTande · Oct 26, 2014

Leak #1 is here between the manifold and turbine housing. What can I do? Loosen the turbo to manifold bolts, and re-seat it and tighten them up again? It wasn't leaking here before I changed the turbo, both surfaces are flat. Do I just need to tighten the bolts more?

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Leak #2 is between the turbine housing and o2 housing. This one I knew about because I know the o2 housing is NOT flat. I need to take it off and get it machined or flat file it more.

My question is, will this leak affect my spool? I'm not sure. Either way I need to get it fixed, but I'm just curious.

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pauleyman · Oct 26, 2014

Have your torqued these after the first heat cycle? If not then yes. Torque them again.

HPGSX · Oct 26, 2014

Try to torque again as stated above and if that doesnt help you could try getting new gaskets or some gasket maker or put high heat gasket maker over the existing gasket to be sure it seals, hope that helps!

1Badvan · Oct 26, 2014

I just recently fixed two leaks in those areas myself with the FFWD Connection copper crush gaskets made by SCE for FFWD.

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/dsm.html?___store=english&cat=28

WES_393 · Oct 26, 2014

ErikTande said:
My question is, will this leak affect my spool? I'm not sure. Either way I need to get it fixed, but I'm just curious.

Any leaks before the turbo can affect spool, but a leak afterwards (such as the 02 housing) won't. Leaks before the primary O2 sensor can also affect your A/F ratio.

Like Paul said, the bolts should be re-torqued after a heat cycle. If the manifold/turbo gasket has pushed out and deformed it would be best to replace it.

backward_0 · Oct 27, 2014

Like everyone's said. I would definitely try and retorque. It wouldn't cost hardly anything to put that o2 housing flange on a machine shops planner/belt sander thing. It really sucks trying to hunt down why your AFR is off.

LandSpeed-DSM · Oct 27, 2014

You don't want to try to "true-up" a gasket mating surface on a belt sander, even if it's at a machine shop. If a re torque doesn't do it, try a copper gasket. I've been coating mine with a healthy layer of copper spray too.

If that still doesn't work, you may need to have them milled.

Even small leaks can have a surprising impact on performance.

ErikTande · Oct 27, 2014

I tried retorquing, didn't help. I'm going to order some new gaskets, I like the idea of those copper crush gaskets that 1Badvan posted, but they're all out of stock. Is there another place to get those? I'm going to pull the o2 housing off again and take it to get machined.

Wayne · Oct 29, 2014

The copper gaskets would be the way to go as those steel shim gaskets (I see in the picture) are not tolerant of surfaces that are not flat

NY 95 TSI AWD · Oct 29, 2014

I would personally go with the Mitsubishi multi layer gasket for between the manifold and turbine housing. The make them in the "7cm" size for the 16g's.

ChrisSoFresh · Oct 29, 2014

Make sure they are flat or not warped if re-torquing doesn't help, of make sure gaskets are not torn

Boostedx11 · Oct 30, 2014

copper gasket spray also works wonders on any of the exhaust gaskets!

tighty · Mar 2, 2015

Awesome thread with pictures. I have the exact same problem. Last 2 times I smogged I was on the ragged edge of failure and could not figure out why. Boost leak tested to high hell, checked everything, then ran some sea foam and noticed the smoke from it coming out the places OP noted. I'm fairly sure this is what is throwing off my O2 and making the car run like shit from the smogs point of view. Ordered new gaskets and will likely seal them with copper gasket spray...unless someone thinks that's a bad idea...

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1G exhaust leaks questions

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