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New clutch hydraulics, severe drag.

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bgugi

Probationary Member
16
0
Aug 24, 2013
Winthrop Harbor, Illinois
97gst, I had a clutch fluid leak that went ballistic, so I decided to swap both cylinders and use a direct ss line. Got everything together, got everything bled, went to go and that's where the suffering started. Can't get into any gear except reverse (reverse has a pretty bad grind to get into) while the engine is running. Shifts fine while off.

I have the clutch master linkage almost unscrewed, the slave can freeload (be compressed by hand), but not after a very short pedal travel. The pedal travels very smoothly (no sticks or "lumps" in feel: even consistent pressure) through most of its range, but stops suddenly and firmly before reaching the floor, as far as i can tell, this may be the end of master cylinder travel, as there does not appear to be any other mechanical limit to travel. As for the slave, it operates under pressure, stopping before reaching the bell housing (i can fit a finger between).

I've bled and bled and bled, haven't seen a bubble since the first 5-10 minutes (I also bled the slave by pressing it in through its entire range of travel with the valve open, allowing to to return with the valve closed.)

parts are the extreme psi ss line, and exedy mc401 and sc581 ("equal" subbranding).
 
good read, but I've checked pretty much all it says. I literally drove it right before replacing the hydraulics (with a bleed, it held pressure but would leak over the course of a day or two) and everything held together, so i don't think it's any kind of clutch/flywheel problem. Only possible thing other than the hydraulics themselves might have something to do with the fork lever, but i don't think i can mess it up without taking the clutch off, can i?
 
Verify you have the correct slave and master. They are not all the same. If you kept you old ones you can compare. if you used parts store item you have a greater risk of the wrong part. You will have to measure piston size with a caliper. My money is on bleed procedures first, then wrong part.
 
Are you sure you bled the master correctly, they tend to be a hassle to bleed.

There are a few ways to bleed the master including ;
1. Bench Bleed
2. Gravity Bleed through the slave (Keep reservoir topped and then just leave the bleeder line on the slave connected to a clear hose into a bottle with fluid already in it and allow it to just continue flowing until there is no more air bubbles in the clear tube.

I think there is 1 or 2 more ways that I have read up on working as well.
 
Did a 15min gravity bleed... it went through approx 1 "resevoir" of fluid (kept above half throughout).

Did a different test, regarding slave freeload. pulled the rod out, compressed the piston, then had an assistant press the clutch pedal (FINGERS CLEAR!) this allowed the clutch to drop to the floor. therefore i'm pretty sure the difference between my freeload depth and the end of slave travel is too short.
 
Like Pauleyman said, I'd compare the old slave cylinder. It is possible that whoever owned the car before you installed longer slave cylinder rod. I know that you can buy 1" longer rods from extreme psi... Not that installing a longer rod is the correct answer, but it could be a solution to your problem...
 
Did you ever figure out your problem? I bought SC581 slave cylinder from Rock Auto because it says it fits 2g DSM's but I don't think this slave is correct for our year (97 GST). Bleeder port and hookup are on totally different sides, stock they are same side.

Looks like this which looks like a 1g slave: http://www.jnztuning.com/images/MD733260.JPG?osCsid=13ca4b9df90936d6e9174d70ec215006

My 2g slave looks like this:
http://www.jnztuning.com/images/MD749823.JPG

I assume with some effort you can make anything fit, but I have not yet installed it because of this...
 
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