So I thought my starter relay was bypassed, but apparently the module under the radio on the far right is the S/R, but the module to the left of it IS bypassed....what is it? (sorry the pic so bad, I just stuck my phone under console and snapped a photo)

Run a jumper wire from positive of battery straight to starter solenoid if it cranks everytime you'll have to trace the wiring.

Are you sure the clutch safety switch is plugged in. Its at the bottom of the travel not the top. The top switch is a cruise control switch.

inthemidst said:

Run a jumper wire from positive of battery straight to starter solenoid if it cranks everytime you'll have to trace the wiring.

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That wire is already there - the large battery cable. Just touch a wire from the starter stud it is connected on to the small starter signal wire stud - starter should go every time. If it doesn't, starter is bad.

DSM Dreamer said:

So I thought my starter relay was bypassed, but apparently the module under the radio on the far right is the S/R, but the module to the left of it IS bypassed....what is it? (sorry the pic so bad, I just stuck my phone under console and snapped a photo)

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Can't make out the blurry pic but the relay on the left is the starter relay, one on right is the door lock power relay 1. The manual shows them backwards.

luv2rallye said:

Can't make out the blurry pic but the relay on the left is the starter relay, one on right is the door lock power relay 1. The manual shows them backwards.

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That makes lots of sense, thanks!

Ok, replaced the starter this morning (with new solenoid of course), an act of which by itself should bestow the rank of "master mechanic" to any who can accomplish such a feat! So lets see how it goes!

Kind of curios why you say its that difficult. Either way report back. I still want to know about that clutch safety. Sounds fishy.

pauleyman said:

Kind of curios why you say its that difficult. Either way report back. I still want to know about that clutch safety. Sounds fishy.

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Where the starter is located and the myriad of lines, hoses and cables that you have to fish it through make it very difficult the first time around! I deposited a fair amount of blood and skin getting it out! Once I had gotten it out though and knew how to navigate the "maze", it went in easier than it came out! As for the clutch switch.....it IS plugged in and the clutch WILL disengage cruise BUT the car will start WITHOUT the clutch pedal depressed.

You are looking at the bottom switch next to firewall correct?

Negatory good buddy, only switch I see associated with the clutch is the plunger switch at top of clutch pedal.

The one at the top is the cruise disable switch. If you don't have the clutch disable switch at the bottom then it will let it start with the pedal up (same as if the clutch disable switch is unplugged).

luv2rallye said:

The one at the top is the cruise disable switch. If you don't have the clutch disable switch at the bottom then it will let it start with the pedal up (same as if the clutch disable switch is unplugged).

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Good to know, thanks for clarifying that for me, I mistakenly thought the cruise switch was the only switch there was.

I cant tell in that pic. Look harder. If that switch is active but doesnt get pressed obviously starter wont activate. I cant remember if 2g has it but there is a little rubber plug that wears. If it wears enough the pedal wont press the switch. All you have to do is unplug the switch if you want to disable it.

My brother just called me he has a 99 GS so it's a 420A. He said his steeri felt a little weird today and he was just on his way home when he lost power steering he pulled into a parking lot and he said it looks like it's leaking green fluid and now his car won't start. He's getting it towed but what do you guys think the problem is and how bad?

Water pump probably failed, and since it's driven off the timing belt on 420A's I'm sure the news isn't good.

Also, please use a descriptive thread title when creating a new thread- it's in the posting policy you agreed to when joining the site.

Green fluid is coolant. Sounds like he lost a belt, water pump wouldn't turn, car over heated.

JusMX141 said:

Water pump probably failed, and since it's driven off the timing belt on 420A's I'm sure the news isn't good.

Also, please use a descriptive thread title when creating a new thread- it's in the posting policy you agreed to when joining the site.

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Fixed the title thank you for the advice and also the help, I'll let him know I'm just hoping for the best!

Those engines use the alternator as a manual tensioner. My best bet is that the belt got lose so no power steering fluid or coolant was pumping through the systems causing you to loose power steering and engine to overheat.

Update* I guess his water pump went out and his timing chain broke. The shop he took it to has to rebuild the top end of his engine and it should be done today. Thanks for the help you guys are right

Good luck ..buy quality parts and hopefully it will last a while.

Narish Do Urden said:

I have ampwire from previous owner setting it up, its about the same gauge from POS to Starter.
-.- I suppose I can give it a shot and just run that and bolt it down. I mean couldn't hurt to try and hopefully it'll do the trick.

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Update on my issue, it just so happened the 2 other starter relays I used were bad, I replaced it with a third one and it fired right up. It's most likely an extremely uncommon case, but it's worth looking into.

Just to throw this out there because I don't know if it's been mentioned previously just in general in the thread (not directed at the current OP). But I had my coolant level light on with a no start, getting spark only for the first few cranks then nothing. Turned out deleting my factory coolant over flow tank was the cause of my no start. plugged it back in, filled it up and car started fine........this is after I checked every ignition component and ECU.

Don't know how many people have had that happen to them, but I searched the forum for a good 2 days looking for causes of a no start symptom and my fix was never mentioned once in any of the threads.

A coolant light wont cause a no start.

Wouldn't that be saying, the problem he was having AND fixed with the stated resolve didn't just work for him?