oil pan question

jettster91 · Jan 30, 2015

Hey guys I had my oil pan blasted and when he did the edge for the gasket he also hit the inside of the pan leaving parts bare. Any ideas what I should do about it? Leave it bare ? Or paint it with something. let me know

I added a picture so you guys can see clearly

blesi660r · Jan 30, 2015

I don't think giving it a spray with quality oil resistant and heat resistant paint would hurt, but I also don't think leaving it would be bad ither as its going to be full of oil.

BogusSVO · Jan 30, 2015

Make sure there are no loose edges to the coating and let it be.

If you try to coat it on the inside, and it is not right, it may flake off and clog the pick up screen.

Since it was beaded, take a rubber mallet and knock all over it to dislodge any other bead that is wedged in the baffles and welds

donniekak · Jan 30, 2015

For what it's worth, I use a new oil pan every time I take one off. They are $65 at oreillys, which to me is a way better deal than cleaning, possibly painting, and straightening a used one.

BogusSVO · Jan 30, 2015

6 bolt oil pan number is Spectra CRP14B 6 bolt

Advance has them too

They can be a few bucks cheaper if bought on line with the discount code

dfootedsm · Jan 30, 2015

7 bolt pans too?

Kapok6 · Jan 30, 2015

donniekak said:
For what it's worth, I use a new oil pan every time I take one off. They are $65 at oreillys, which to me is a way better deal than cleaning, possibly painting, and straightening a used one.

BogusSVO said:
6 bolt oil pan number is Spectra CRP14B 6 bolt

Advance has them too

They can be a few bucks cheaper if bought on line with the discount code

Thanks for that information guys. I was never aware of this option. You may have just saved me some future headaches.

1990TSIAWDTALON · Jan 30, 2015

CRP14B is a nice pan that is powder coated. It is available from Spectra or Dorman BUT....if you have main STUDS in your motor you will have to modify the area where the rear main studs are by dimpling it in two places for it to fit. I just bought one to replace my dented beat up old pan and without dimpling it, it wouldn't fit as the main stud washers hold the pan from lining up correctly. I will try to attach a couple pics of how I did mine and now it fits like a glove! Good luck on a 7 bolt pan as I can't find an aftermarket one yet but I have a 6 bolt. I will probably put these pictures on a Tech article to show what to do to get the pan to fit perfect. :thumb:

Kapok6 · Jan 30, 2015

1990TSIAWDTALON said:
CRP14B is a nice pan that is powder coated. It is available from Spectra or Dorman BUT....if you have main STUDS in your motor you will have to modify the area where the rear main studs are by dimpling it in two places for it to fit. I just bought one to replace my dented beat up old pan and without dimpling it, it wouldn't fit as the main stud washers hold the pan from lining up correctly. I will try to attach a couple pics of how I did mine and now it fits like a glove! Good luck on a 7 bolt pan as I can't find an aftermarket one yet but I have a 6 bolt. I will probably put these pictures on a Tech article to show what to do to get the pan to fit perfect.

Thanks!!!

tmoney20g · Jan 30, 2015

FWIW, my spectra pan from Advance went on with no problems whatsoever, and I'm using ARP studs w/ the kiggly girdle.

I did however, take a hint from Josh@JNZ and cleaned out all the overspray on the inside of the pan.

This was just 2 weekends ago for me, starting with this part of my build:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1992-talon-tsi-awd-re-habilitation.477703/page-6#post-153487799

PS. Also to note, if you're going to weld on a bung for a Holset or other turbo, its better to start with a new non-turbo pan. The flat area where the return will go is easier to work with on a non-turbo pan.

1990TSIAWDTALON · Jan 30, 2015

Anytime! Posted in the Engine tech section now also.

1990TSIAWDTALON · Jan 30, 2015

Hmm. I ordered both the Spectra and the Dorman pans from Oreilly's to see which one would fit better and when we pulled the Dorman pan out of its box it said CRP14B.....exact same pan so I bought the one that was the cheapest. Nice comment. Wonder what the difference was... pan depth, stud length, etc because mine absolutely would not line up on the bottom without dimpling it and believe me I did not want to smack my nice pretty new pan with a sledge hammer but ya gotta do what ya gotta do and now it fits great. Interesting.

I have to say ALWAYS TEST FIT IT FIRST then. :thumb:

jettster91 · Jan 30, 2015

Well shit if i would have known oreillys sold new pans for 60 bucks i wouldnt have messed with mine, Or any dsm oil pan for that matter, Thanks guys!

1990TSIAWDTALON · Jan 30, 2015

I found them on RockAuto to start with then went to the parts store to see if they could get it and to my surprise they could. All were about the same price and I didn't have to pay shipping at the parts store.

tmoney20g · Jan 30, 2015

This might beg the question then, if you used ARP mains, did you cut off the 3rd leg on the oil pickup ? You can't use that 3rd leg with Arps without some sort of modification. (I just cut mine off cleanly)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The other option is to use a 2g pick-up tube.

1990TSIAWDTALON · Jan 30, 2015

Hey....have you been in my garage.....looks like my short block!!! LOL

yep did the exact same thing!

volcakid8787 · May 14, 2015

So, I have a 1g that I'm building now. Currently it is a short block OEM however with forged internals to include acl bearings Manley rods and cp pistons. Anyways...I have two manuals and neither of them state the torque specs for the main bolts. I just bought new ones and would like to install them before I get started. Does anyone have the torque specs or know a better manual? I have the Haynes and another that says Mitsubishi service manual. Since this thread was discussing main bolts and oil pan I figured I'd post here.

tmoney20g · May 14, 2015

volcakid8787 said:
So, I have a 1g that I'm building now. Currently it is a short block OEM however with forged internals to include acl bearings Manley rods and cp pistons. Anyways...I have two manuals and neither of them state the torque specs for the main bolts. I just bought new ones and would like to install them before I get started. Does anyone have the torque specs or know a better manual? I have the Haynes and another that says Mitsubishi service manual. Since this thread was discussing main bolts and oil pan I figured I'd post here.

Connecting Rod Cap Nut - 38 ft-lbs
Bearing cap bolt - DOHC - 49 ft-lbs

volcakid8787 · May 14, 2015

tmoney20g said:
Connecting Rod Cap Nut - 38 ft-lbs
Bearing cap bolt - DOHC - 49 ft-lbs

Not the for the bearings...the girdle. Those aren't the same things right? It's the last thing you bolt on before the oil pan.

inthemidst · May 14, 2015

Oil and metal are best friends don't worry about the pan.

tmoney20g · May 15, 2015

volcakid8787 said:
Not the for the bearings...the girdle. Those aren't the same things right? It's the last thing you bolt on before the oil pan.

The kiggly girdle ? That goes on top of the main studs, then you torque the main studs down with the nuts provided by ARP.

If that's what you're referring to, I hope you took the block to a machine shop and had them align hone the mains with the ARPs and kiggle girdle installed...

volcakid8787 · May 16, 2015

tmoney20g said:
The kiggly girdle ? That goes on top of the main studs, then you torque the main studs down with the nuts provided by ARP.

If that's what you're referring to, I hope you took the block to a machine shop and had them align hone the mains with the ARPs and kiggle girdle installed...

They are the stock main studs...and yes, he did torque them down already. The only issue is that the one that connects the oil fill tube(not sure if that's the right name) does not have a naked stud so I cannot attach the nut. Hopefully that makes sense. I've seen guys just cut that elbow off but I'm not sure if that's okay or not. So my original plan was to take them off and replace them with new bolts that I bought. I suppose I could just cut that metal elbow off though and say screw it...from the looks of your picture above, you did that so I guess that is okay huh? haha

tmoney20g · May 16, 2015

volcakid8787 said:
They are the stock main studs...and yes, he did torque them down already. The only issue is that the one that connects the oil fill tube(not sure if that's the right name) does not have a naked stud so I cannot attach the nut. Hopefully that makes sense. I've seen guys just cut that elbow off but I'm not sure if that's okay or not. So my original plan was to take them off and replace them with new bolts that I bought. I suppose I could just cut that metal elbow off though and say screw it...from the looks of your picture above, you did that so I guess that is okay huh? haha

Cut it off like most 1g owners, or buy a new 2g oil pickup:
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3285

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