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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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Coil Pair A
-When looking into the ISC, coil pair A is pins 1, 2 and 3.
-ISC Pin 2 is ground for coil pair A
-ISC Pin 1 is a coil and goes to ECU pin 58
-ISC Pin 3 is a coil and goes to ECU pin 59
-IC107 is the ECU driver that will blow if coil pair A is bad.

Coil Pair B
-When looking into the ISC, coil pair B is pins 4, 5 and 6.
-ISC Pin 5 is ground for coil pair A
-ISC Pin 4 is a coil and goes to ECU pin 68
-ISC Pin 6 is a coil and goes to ECU pin 67
-IC105 is the ECU driver that will blow if coil pair B is bad.


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Would appear that coil pair A is bad in my case. IC107. I will verify this weekend. It was way too cold today to try doing anything on the car.
 
if valves are bent then its time to pull the head off, send to a machine shop for new valves, possibly new guides and new valve seals. along with decking the head.
 
So I was driving on the highway and decided to give it a little boost and I assume I hit fuel cut because at about my peak boost (I hav manual boost controller set at 12-13lbs) I heard low pop noise, nothing loud but the car went into neutral (it's a manual) and I coasted a bit, I put it back in 5th gear and kept driving like nothing was wrong. No smoke, engine didn't run hot and drove it for about 5-8 miles before I stopped. Then once I tried to start the car back up all the lights came on but no start, tried to jump it. nothing. battery is basically new. There wasn't any oil leaking like crazy after I parked it for a while. So i'm trying to figure out what happened. It has a practically new flywheel, new clutch, rebuilt 7 block with arp headstuds, i'm running a 14b with 7cm housing. Any help or guesses would be great before I tow it to a shop.
 
Sounds like it could be a Intercooler pipe or coupling. I have done the same exact thing on the highway and if you don't boost much after and kinda coast it some where you wouldn't notice it. Although after I did that my car still started but would die immediately. Check couplings and clamps 1st then make sure you have fuel in the line and The plugs are firing.
 
Would the starter wire arc while driving with no power to it? If it just wines when you turn the key could it be the starter spinning, but not engaging the fly wheel? I've had something similar happen twice. The first was a snapped timing belt, but your engine still runs. The second was under boost and then the engine died after a pop. I coasted to a stop and just cranked it a few times. Finally started. The IC pipe coming loose sounds legit, but the turbo isn't producing power right at startup so it shouldn't keep your car from starting. My pipe came loose a few times too and never had any startup issues, but it wasn't completely disconnected either.
 
+1 on the arching. Check your fuses, as well, maybe a blow one will point to where the arch occurred. It now sounds like you have a dead battery trying to turn that starter or a partially blown fuse.
Check the wires!
 
I'll be checking it out tomorrow, hopefully it's electrical! Thanks for all the help, it's definitely an odd problem
 
Would the starter wire arc while driving with no power to it? If it just wines when you turn the key could it be the starter spinning, but not engaging the fly wheel? I've had something similar happen twice. The first was a snapped timing belt, but your engine still runs. The second was under boost and then the engine died after a pop. I coasted to a stop and just cranked it a few times. Finally started. The IC pipe coming loose sounds legit, but the turbo isn't producing power right at startup so it shouldn't keep your car from starting. My pipe came loose a few times too and never had any startup issues, but it wasn't completely disconnected either.

There is always power to the starter, just when you turn the key forward, it turns that secondary hot, cranking the starter. "if i'm wrong someone correct me"

If it wines, you are getting power, so yea the arm could not be extending to catch the fly wheel.

Having a major boost leak or disconnected pipe will keep the car from starting, if it does start, it will die right away. if you unplug the maf and it starts, that could be the issue, or plug wires.

I agree with Caitsith, could be a bad battery, if that battery starts another car, you can rule that out.
 
Turn the key and have plenty of power but starter would not engage. Car normally starts WITHOUT depressing clutch pedal even though plunger switch on clutch IS plugged in. Starter relay is bypassed via connecting the appropriate wires. I pulled the NSS out of the top of tranny and had son depress the little ball at end of switch while trying to start...nothing. I unplugged said switch and jumped the plug by inserting a piece of wire to compete the circuit.....nothing. Car finally started when (with clutch depressed) I turned key to start position while putting it into gear, when FULLY in gear starter engaged, however I tried this SEVERAL times before it finally worked. So after I finally got it started, I shut it off and started it several times. The starter never went "click click click" like a dead battery or solenoid, it turns with authority. SO is it possible the NSS is going bad? If so why wouldn't it start while I jumped the NSS plug (BTW, had MAF unplugged and intake off while jumping plug for better access.). Originally the car had keyless entry (but I don't have the fob), don't know if it has any anti theft stuff or not.
 
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the only anti-theft that will keep the car from turning on is the factory alarm and that is only engaged when you lock the door by key and even then the horn will sound and the lights will flash till you turn it off. now as for the nss being bad i do not think that will effect the start of the car with it bypassed or unplugged. have you checked to make sure the car is getting spark at your plugs and have you checked your coils?
 
Sounds like the contacts in the starter/solenoid may be going bad and a vibration sometimes makes it work. Some people hit starter with a hammer and then it works but only for awhile. Or battery connections are loose/corroded.
I have considered that , If it were the battery it would drag or just click, but I think your on to something with the starter going bad. It's up on ramps now, so I'll check out the starter. Also, both times I've had to push start the car :( it throws a check engine light, any idea what that is about?
 
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