Have you checked your mbc? Done blt?

I don't have, and no not a blt yet. I have a nipple on the jpipe with a t fitting. I'm thinking the t fitting is for the jpipe and waste gate? Because I orignally had it from the boost solenoid to the wastegate.

So how did you turn the boost up so high. What are you tuning with? Mods? I checked your profile and no info.

You didn't mention what type of wastegate setup you have. How are the vacuum lines connected?

+1 on boost leak
or a faulty/sticking BOV

You've added more volume to the air system, if anything PSI should have gone down, but since you are spiking from just installing a FMIC and BOV, it's either a leak or a craptastic bov!

Is it boost spike or boost creep? They can happen at the same time, but they are two different occurrences and are caused by different situations. Just trying to get concrete clarification so we can give the best advice

As a general note: in my personal experience, those purple Greddy type BPVs aren't of the best quality. I used one on a Punishment kit I bought and it leaked when new. I put the factory BPV back on and it worked great.

I'm thinking its boost creep, but as soon I hit 25psi I let off the gas ASAP! It's all stock, no tune no MBC. Stock wastegate. I had my 16g hooked up to my stock SMIC with a 3 inch straight pipe, I had a 2g install kit from Forced Performace and noticed with the PR FMIC they have a nipple on the jpipe that I suppose to be used with the t fitting to get a vacuum line to the turbo like that stock t25. If I'm correct? I read it will boost uncontrollably without that line connected.

Not having a MBC is an issue, 16psi from a 16g has far more volume then a T-25 at 16 PSI.
But thinking about it logically, if all you did was replace the BOV and Intercooler, one of the two is the problem, and it's probably a leak!

Swing by home depot and make a BLT for under 10$ or a decked out one for under 30!

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Or purchase one! You can't diagnose a problem when you don't have the proper tools, and on a turbo engine, a Boost leak tester is a must have!



Don't think the stock boost control solenoid would be a good control source. If I'm wrong someone please correct me

You could always just run a vacuum line straight from the J-pipe to the wastegate actuator, so you will be at wastegate pressure and then you know it's due to how you ran the vacuum lines to the boost controller, or the controller itself.

Ok! So I put the tfitting from the boost solenoid to the wastegate and now to then nipple on the j pipe and now boost is normal! Even lower then before, I never had a vacuum line to the 16g before which made me over boost with the SMIC, so with The FMIC I boosted even more so now, I'm still going to perform a BLT and swap out the BOV to something name brand, thanks a lot guys! Much appreciated

Get yourself a MBC, BLT, and a 1g BOV "dodge garage mod'd" and your all set

is your 16g a E3?

Boost spike : Car hits 22psi (spikes) then drops to 15psi (wastegate pressure) and holds to redline.
Boost creep : Car hits 22psi and holds it to redline when the wastegate pressure is 15psi.

rough said:

Not having a MBC is an issue...

Click to expand...

Sorry but that's incorrect. If a car is over boosting, building more pressure than what the wastegate actuator should hold, installing a boost controller won't help "control" boost.


There are a lot of factors here that come into play with your symptoms, Chris. From what I'm understanding is that you already had the 16g and 3" exhaust installed with the stock SMIC, then upgraded to a FMIC? If that's the case I would say that the bigger IC piping/IC core created less of a pressure drop on the cold side of the turbo letting it operate more efficiently and because you've got that 3" exhaust installed your wastegate isn't effectively re-routing the exhaust gases around the turbine wheel, causing boost creep. To test for boost creep, remove the wastegate actuator (wga) arm off the turbo flapper and go WOT and see if you build boost. If it still boosts then you're experiencing boost creep and the only way to get boost under control again is hogging out (porting) your wastegate hole in the hotside of the turbo, running a external wastegate, or installing the stock exhaust. You'll know you've completely gotten rid of boost creep if you can pull the wga arm off the flapper and build 0psi going WOT, that means the flapper is able to re-route all the exhaust gas off the turbine wheel.

If you had the t25 installed and then installed the FMIC and 16g I'd do what renovatdkitchen suggested, ensure you've got a single vacuum line running from a lower IC pipe, i.e., j-pipe or a pipe anywhere pre-intercooler, that goes directly to the nipple on the wastegate actuator. That BCS the ECU uses to control boost on the t25 can be removed along with that web of vacuum lines that go to it if you're still trying to use it with the 16g.

Well I didnt push it to redline because it boosted so high on a stock motor. But yes it's an E316G also thank you for the knowledge gofer

Yep. Don't bother swapping out bov's either, that won't fix the problem you're describing as that has nothing to do with the car building too much boost pressure.

Thanks for the correction on the BCS Gofer.

But.... Wouldn't bigger pipes lower the pressure causing the turbo to work harder for the same PSI, hence more turbo lag?

Not having a MBC on a 16g Is a huge issue when your ECU is tuned for 14psi from a T25... Specially if you don't have supporting mods, no tune, then you run into fuel cut, running lean, *kiss motor goodbye*

14 PSI on a T25 is not the same as 14PSI on a E3 16g! Right?


That's horrible that you are telling the OP to not worry about his knock off prone to failing bov! Nothing like having to remove a spring and diaphragm just to use the darn thing!
The BOV fails to open when you let off the throttle and say you are at 25 psi, heads up! Not even arp head studs will help you!

So yea don't worry about that BOV, what's 50/100$ compared to fixing the damage of a lifted head!


Google Punishment racing BOV and the first link that pops up is...


or how about this...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/quality-of-punishment-greddy-style-bov.410861/

Read the replies back from PUNISHMENT RACING vendor... Very peachy people for being middle men, they don't manufacture, all they do is distribute... Talk about winning your customers over by talking smack to them, instead of getting their input and making their product better. A++ Customer support. I've read that post many years ago, and still haven't purchased anything from PR, or CX racing.


Many threads out there which says that pOS knock off BOV leaks like a screen diaper!
I don't know about you, but if I google something and the first links are about how bad it sucks, I'm not buying it.

Take information for what it's worth OP!

rough said:

Wouldn't bigger pipes lower the pressure causing the turbo to work harder for the same PSI, hence more turbo lag?

Click to expand...

You're right, the bigger pipes would lower the pressure (creating a low pressure zone on the compressor housing outlet) so it would spool up a bit slower but that lower pressure also helps the turbo work in its efficiency range. I'm sure the spool up to 15psi on that 16g was quick with the stock IC piping/SMIC but it's also very restrictive.

Imagine the difference of blowing air through a coffee stir straw and then trying to do the same with a paper towel roll.

rough said:

Not having a MBC on a 16g Is a huge issue when your ECU is tuned for 14psi from a T25... Specially if you don't have supporting mods, no tune, then you run into fuel cut, running lean, *kiss motor goodbye*

Click to expand...

Not having a MBC on a 16g is a NON-ISSUE!! A MBC DOES NOT LOWER BOOST IF YOU'RE RUNNING WASTEGATE SPRING PRESSURE!!! The stock td05 wga spring will open at 12psi, how is adding a boost controller to a 12psi wga going to make it open quicker? The spring is still a 12psi and will still open at 12psi, adding a boost controller doesn't make the spring softer... You can only INCREASE boost pressure from what the wg spring is set to with a boost controller.

rough said:

14 PSI on a T25 is not the same as 14PSI on a E3 16g! Right?

Click to expand...

Not right. 14psi on a t25 is still exactly 14psi on a 16g, the 16g is just flowing more at that boost pressure.

rough said:

That's horrible that you are telling the OP to not worry about his knock off prone to failing bov! Nothing like having to remove a spring and diaphragm just to use the darn thing!
The BOV fails to open when you let off the throttle and say you are at 25 psi, heads up! Not even arp head studs will help you!

Click to expand...

I don't know w.t.f. you're talking about here, a knock off bov not working correctly could cause compressor surge. You're not going to blow a motor using a jacked up bov. I think you need to read into how a bov functions on a turbo application because you seem a little confused.

rough said:

So yea don't worry about that BOV, what's 50/100$ compared to fixing the damage of a lifted head!

Click to expand...

If you're contributing a lifted head to a bad bov it's no wonder why PR customer service responds the way they did.


After some further thinking about all that was replaced here...

OP, if you were running a stock 2g plastic bov and replaced it with the PR bov when you did the FMIC swap then odds are that's the reason you're now seeing boost creep. The turbo's always been trying to creep to 25psi+ because of the bigger exhaust you installed on your car and the wastegate has never been able to re-route the exhaust gases to maintain boost. The stock plastic bov on the 2g's have a very weak spring though, opening around 15psi and all the boost the turbo was trying to build was pushing open the stock bov, pushing all the pressurized air back into the recirculation pipe on the inlet side of the turbo.

What I posted earlier still stands though, you're getting boost creep and it's not going away unless you make a change to your wastegate setup (going external or a lot of porting) or installing the stock exhaust.