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1G Timing belt 6 bolt

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+2...follow the VFAQ and you should be good. I was intimidated the first time but it's not hard but pay attention to everything the VFAQ says and you will be fine. Line up ALL timing marks, the hardest part is keeping the cams spot on. Having the right tools helps tremendously but the first time I did one I didn't have them and it turned out fine. :thumb:
 
recommend getting an M8x125 studs to put the water pump pulleys back on. I screw on into the water pump holes, put the pulleys on 1 at a time, then put a nut on it to keep the holes lined up. After I've put the other 3 bolts back in, I remove the stud and put the last bolt in.

There's one bolt by the water pump that's a bear to get out when removing the front cover. I bent the end of a 1/4 flat stock into an L shape, put the socket on the bolt, then 1/2 turn at a time until I got it out. Socket will go on but even a swivel won't clear enough to remove it.

Remember where each of the bolts go. Basically the 2 long one go above the crank opening and the other one is by the motor mount. The other two long ones hold the top timing cover on.
 
Follow the Vfaq authors personal note on how to set the tention on the belt. it's the best way to do it. The problem is torqueing the bolt on the tensioner idler pully without increasing the tention on it. You have to hold the cam portion of the tentioner pully(the part with the two holes for pins) in position while you tighten the bolt. Make (i did) or buy the tool to hold it. You may have to do it several times to get the gap between the tentioner arm and the tentioner housing correct. Keep the back of the tensioner pully and the block oil free. (use degreaser) so it won't slide as easey. Be brave grasshopper. You can do it.:)
 
Find an OEM tensioner and collapse the pin slowly or you'll blow the seals. People that I know that used the autozone/O'Reilly tensioners all had issues, so OEM.

Vfaq.com has a great write up. You'll definitely want to make the crank sprocket removal tool.

Hope you're doing the balance shaft belt too.

You'll need torque wrenches.

Use some clothes pins or small pinch clamps to keep the belt from slipping off the cam gears when trying to get it around the oil pump and crank.

Plan on resetting the belt several times as it can be difficult to get the timing perfect, which you'll want after coming that far.

Remove spark plugs so you're not fighting compression.

Before stitching up, turn the motor clockwise by the crank for a few cycles to make sure valves aren't hitting Pistons.
 
Oh, also don't neglect measuring the distance the pin has traveled out of the tensioner. Too much and the belt may loosen and come off. I had mine too far down and the tensioner failed a month later, probably too much pressure blowing the seals in the tensioner. Also was not OEM, can't isolate cause of failure.
 
Hey guys, opening this back up just to say thank you. I ended up having a buddy help me the first time but I ended up pulling it all back out again to do a head gasket and clutch. i went about it by myself and it went perfect! I ended up selling the car earlier this year and picked up a clean 98 gs-t roller as the 2g platform is more my style. thank you fellow dsmers!
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