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Koni yellow shocks and appropriate spring rates

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OP, or anyone else, what rates did you end up with for track?

I'm setting mine up for ideally a balance of mild (enthusiast/entry level class) time attack and comfy daily driving. Thinking 616/280 as the Swifts I plan to use are metric. Is that too much front spring?
 
I'm running 700/400 Hypercoil springs for my setup which is built for track use. I've also got a set of 800/300 that I'm going to play around with once I get more track time on the current setup. I've also been looking into other rear sway bar options to play around with in combination to the springs. Since I've got a FWD, the car has a good bit of understeer and I'm looking to get rid of it.

I would say the 600 isn't too much front spring. That'll be a nice compromise between track and street. Just remember the rear spring affects how comfy the ride is more than the front.
 
I haven't had a lot of opportunity to race it since installing them years ago (car was down for a while), but from what I remember it handled fairly neutral. But I know if I push it hard, it does still understeer.

I'd take measurements of the lower sprint perch and upper hat and see where that measurement would put you in regards to potentially sliding off and/or causing issues. Maybe see if you can make a template out of something solid with the proper ID and just move it around on both seats and see what problems you can produce. With the difference being .12" (which would mean .06" extra on each side), I don't think it'd be a problem, but I'd definitely test before actually running it.
 
I use to run 500F/350R, first day lapping & I knew the front was too soft. I swapped to 700's in the front & the car feels much better now. While I typically seem to only have the car on the road for 3-4 months now, when it is on the road it is daily driven. I don't have any problems with the 700's in the front & actually prefer them even for daily vs the 500's. Even on the street, the front felt too soft, compared to how firm the 350's in the rear felt. Now the car feels much more neutral.

One of my buddies that is building more of a track car went with 800's in the front, still on stock valved Koni's. Car hasn't been driven yet, but shouldn't be a problem. Believe Scott actually runs 900's up front on his stock Koni's, not sure how much use they see but as far as I know, their still holding up fine.
 
I run 800lb springs up front on koni's. When i'm on my 17's with a fat sidewall, it drives smooth. On my 18's with a 35 sidewall, its a bit rough. My 350 rears feel very stiff on my 17's and I hate how it feels with my 18's. (255/35/18)

I plan on swapping around to 650lb springs up front with 300lb in the rear. I also want to sell my 18's and pick up a set of 17x9 with 255/40 tires. That should be tits.
 
Thanks for all the great input guys! Went with 616/336 lbs as the Swifts are metric (11/6kg), got the car together working all day Fri & Sat thanks to the awesome folks at KT Motoring, and put down a 1:34 at Streets of Willow CW with no tune, suspension, and crappy Falken 452 LOL!

The DG spec Koni coilovers were amazing, very neutral and gradual breakaway on track, yet also dampened out the infamous expansion joints on the 405. Will be interested to see how the setup performs with alignment, tune, and some real tires haha. I might go to a 280 lb/5kg in the rear for even more comfortable DDing LOL.

Is it just me or does the DG setup make the front really low? I have about 1" of clearance between tire & fender w/the snap ring on the lowest slot...

Oh and follow my time attack adventures at www.fb.com/LSLMotorsports :) I'll be campaigning in Redline Time Attack & the Extreme Speed AWD Comp
 
Brian, I was in the last GB! :p

Oh, I thought that only controlled rebound LOL
 
Oh yeah, that's what I meant haha! Still learning about the black magic of suspension :)
 
You two Koni users - have your bumpstops been cut, and if so, by how much. The more they are shortened the worse the ride becomes. Eibachs always ride on the bumpstops, so the more progressive the bumpstop, the less ugly the ride. Which brings a cheap fix into view - try installing a bumpstop that is long and very progressive - that should reduce the harshness. Such a bumpstop will always be "in use" so there is no longer the initial impact of contacting it (specially cut ones).

Hey guys, question....
I cut my bumpstops per the instructions for my Koni Yellows matched with the Eibach Pro-kit. If it is true that the Eibachs always ride on the bumpstops, would I be better off ordering some new bumpstops and installing them uncut? I am all about comfort in my old age.
 
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