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1992 Talon Tsi AWD Re-habilitation

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How is it I remember reading about your oil feed setup but can't seem to find it? Am I being blinded by all the different post? Lol trying to decide if I should switch my ofh off my daily which has the sideways facing off to the build motor which has the front facing? From my understanding the sideways facing has extra oil ports I can use for oil feed to turbo, in which case I can also utilize the original ops home for the new guage. What would you suggest?
 
How is it I remember reading about your oil feed setup but can't seem to find it? Am I being blinded by all the different post? Lol trying to decide if I should switch my ofh off my daily which has the sideways facing off to the build motor which has the front facing? From my understanding the sideways facing has extra oil ports I can use for oil feed to turbo, in which case I can also utilize the original ops home for the new guage. What would you suggest?


It was post #122 on page 5, it was when the site was screwing up and not posting pics, but making them attachments. I just went back and found it, and fixed the pics, so its there now when my idea started.

And you are correct, OEM ofh from 91-94 has the large front facing port (that has a plug in it) that is utilized for most s.s. turbo oil feed line kits. (There's actually 2 ports there, but only 1 gets a clean feed post-filter) The FFOFH has the flat/round spot in which the same can be done, but would have to be drilled and tapped like FFWDConnection does if you purchase it off them: http://www.ffwdconnection.com/dsm/triplef6.html#

Or you can be creative like I am, and utilize a tee, or 2 tees, or block like I did. Just be careful of what's bspt and npt, or you'll need even more fittings to connect it all together here and there. Not sure if an extra sandwhich adapter, on top of an oem sandwich, is a good idea, or who's used one or what, but that could be another option too. I didn't like the idea, so I didn't go with it.

I really like my distribution block, and I'm not sad about losing power steering with my modded power rack. When the car's finally done and together and driving, I plan on doing an electric steering coversion like @yhype has done in his new build thread. Maybe he'll even do a write-up (hint hint) :sneaky:
 
It was post #122 on page 5, it was when the site was screwing up and not posting pics, but making them attachments. I just went back and found it, and fixed the pics, so its there now when my idea started.

And you are correct, OEM ofh from 91-94 has the large front facing port (that has a plug in it) that is utilized for most s.s. turbo oil feed line kits. (There's actually 2 ports there, but only 1 gets a clean feed post-filter) The FFOFH has the flat/round spot in which the same can be done, but would have to be drilled and tapped like FFWDConnection does if you purchase it off them: http://www.ffwdconnection.com/dsm/triplef6.html#

Or you can be creative like I am, and utilize a tee, or 2 tees, or block like I did. Just be careful of what's bspt and npt, or you'll need even more fittings to connect it all together here and there. Not sure if an extra sandwhich adapter, on top of an oem sandwich, is a good idea, or who's used one or what, but that could be another option too. I didn't like the idea, so I didn't go with it.

I really like my distribution block, and I'm not sad about losing power steering with my modded power rack. When the car's finally done and together and driving, I plan on doing an electric steering coversion like @yhype has done in his new build thread. Maybe he'll even do a write-up (hint hint) :sneaky:


Appreciate the insight I like the idea of the sideway facing ofh like on my daily I could get a good clean oil feed and still use my stock ops and add a after market as well if I wanted. Not sure what's up my sleeve for it I got time being the motors out and done but project fast talon is on hold... :'( because project daily has made its self a little needy at this time.. And god knows I can't afford to drive the tremendous amount of gas my truck eats.. But being motor is out and fresh it would take nothing at all to replace it I do like your idea of the dist. Block can see oil pressure at the source and would be s good in dictation if over doing pressure into the holset being they are a little sensitive on that note what kind of oil pressure you plan on seeing into the chra ? I haven't done the research to find a good psi but wouldn't mind a posters POV on it and I'm sure between you hx35 mines an hx 40 their bound to be close if not the same
 
The oil pressure is only in the s.s. line, there's no pressure in the CHRA. If there is pressure in the CHRA, then something is wrong with the drain. Hopefully nothing goes wrong :)
 
Well its coming along man mine is too, got the transmission on I like the steering rack I want to do that myslelf.
 
The oil pressure is only in the s.s. line, there's no pressure in the CHRA. If there is pressure in the CHRA, then something is wrong with the drain. Hopefully nothing goes wrong :)


Yes I am aware of that what I was referring to is my understanding is 4g63 run a usually higher oil pressure then holsetwant leading to the chra use of restrictors is recommended also doing the bal. Shaft removed also increases oil pressure what restrictor size and such was what I was wondering
 
That's on a case by case basis. I do have balance shafts removed, I do have an in-spec rotating assembly as far as clearances go (not too tight, not too loose), I am not running a restrictor, and I do have a full -12an drain from turbo to pan. Only way to know for sure, for me, will be when the car is running.

If I'm getting 18psi right now, just running the oil pump with a drill, that seems pretty high. But that's 40F straight 30w oil with 1/2qt of lucas mixed in. I'm gonna run some calculations and figure out what i'm spinning the oil pump sprocket at, and what the sprocket spins at if the crank pulley is 750rpm, etc.
 
1/31/14:

Pro-tip: Install your tensioner before you prime the oil system, or oil will leak from the bottom bolt hole. Ask me how I know:

ShTkFisl.jpg


So I cleaned that up and gave it a little more go, this time with the drill, and on low speed setting which would be a max of 450rpm.



WARNING: DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS TO PRIME YOUR OIL PUMP

You do not want to hit your brand new hardened steel oil pump gears with an impact wrench and dig them into your new aluminum oil pump housing.

@about 30 seconds into the video above, when I put the camera to look into the head, you can faintly see some air bubbles coming from the intake lifter. I continued to prime until I didn't see anymore air bubbles.

Here's the math I did using some online pulley tool rpm calculator, based on my findings that the diameter of the crank pulley is 71mm, and the oil pump pulley is 54mm:

Crank Pulley Oil Pulley
750 rpm 986 rpm
800 rpm 1052 rpm
850 rpm 1118 rpm
900 rpm 1183 rpm
950 rpm 1249 rpm
1000 rpm 1315 rpm
1050 rpm 1381 rpm
1100 rpm 1446 rpm
1150 rpm 1512 rpm
1200 rpm 1587 rpm

I went that far because the 18v dewalt drill I was using has the following speeds Low = 0-450rpm, High 0-1500rpm

But after seeing the results on maxed out on low, I didn't decide to try the drill on high. Oh well.

Reverse math tells me that if the oil pulley is spinning at 450rpm, then the crank pulley is only spinning at 342 rpm. Anyone know what start-cranking rpms are ?

Anyhow, I took the turbo back off as well, had to modify an o2 housing bolt, so while it was off, I busted out my 15 year old porting bit, and decided to open up the wastegate hole. I'm running a 41mm Tial, and the hole that comes in the BEP .55ar bolt-on housing is only like 25mm diameter, and I don't want to risk any boost creep, so:

fKPsrzGl.jpg


And while we're at it, let's clean up the collector too :)

YjoPGLLl.jpg


Then I put that all back together, installed new oem timing belt and new black timing cover:

j9ptuG7l.jpg
 
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2/3: Working on the COP some more, well I guess it's done now.
Here's my parts list if anyone is interested:
JayRacing Black Anodized COP Plate from JayRacing - $76.77 shipped
(4) ULTRAPOWER UF269 Coils from RockAuto - $79.38 shipped
(4) Toyota Style 2-way Injector Connector & Ignition Coil Pigtail, Black ( Toyota # 90980-11246 ) from Ballenger Motorsports - $38.45 shipped
Installation hardware from NAPA - ~$5
Total : $199.60, so let's say $200.

Here you'll notice how long the pre-installed pigtails are from the Ballenger:

JjSoD7Hl.jpg


Plenty long, no need for adding extensions wires. I actually shortened the wires where close connections were made and used the cut-off pieces for extensions to make the connector come out further for more flexibility in the engine bay.

After taking my time and doing all my soldering, I checked and re-checked everyone's how-to's, because I had a coil pack with Red/White/Black(stripe) set of wires, where most how-to's had red/blue/blue(stripe). So I soldered up all my connections and heat-shrinked them, then wire-loomed it all for a nice protective finish:
WeDuYCLl.jpg


Jafro's vid says the Dynatek likes a resistance of less than 2 ohms, yet his video showed his setup at 2.1-2.2 ohms. I probed with my multimeter and got results of 2.3 ohms.

2/4: After reading the ARC-2 instructions in bed last night, I have also decided to check out the manual's way of testing the coils. ARC-2 installation guide says "when selecting coils for use with a CD Ignition, you should pick coils with a relatively low primary resistance, preferably under 0.5 ohm."

So I busted out the multimeter again and primary resistance readings for both the 1-4 and 2-3 are ~1.4 ohms.

(OEM standard primary coil resistance is 0.77-0.95 ohm)

I attempted the secondary coil resistance test with the COP, but got no reading. I guess having the coils split means the circuit is open for that test.

And since I had the oem coil pack sitting here, decided to test that as well...

Primary: for 1-4 and 2-3 = 1.2 ohm
[Standard value: 0.77-0.95 ohm]

Secondary: 1-4 = 12.76 kilo-ohm 2-3 = 13.10 kilo-ohm
[Standard value: 10.3-13.9 kQ
Caution: Be sure, when measuring the resistance of the secondary
coil, to disconnect the connector of the ignition coil.]

So my primary's were out of spec, but secondary's were in spec. At least I learned some data, I guess.
 
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2/8/15:
Sometimes you clean up existing 25 year old parts and think they look good, but next to some brand new parts, there's just no comparison. Somewhere along the way I lost 1 of the brake line clips, so I went to NAPA to find a replacement. Turns out these babies are only 50c a piece, so you know what, I replaced all 10 on the car....

89mdPmtl.jpg


It's a slightly different design than the oem "bowed" clip, but it works just the same, and it appears to have a nicer design when it comes time to remove them if you have to.

z88QsgHl.jpg


Yesterday I also un-installed and re-installed the steeering rack, twice. And I still can't get the steering wheel zero'd, so I guess I'll just have to remove the steering wheel instead of the rack, and zero it that way once the car gets an alignment.

I also did a rudimentary bleed of the brake system, starting with the furthest caliper to the closest, retightened all the rear subframe components, making sure all the eccentric bolts are zero'd as much as possible. Also filled the rear diff with Lucas 80-90w gear oil. I'm just a fan of lucas stuff, their 85w-140 will most likely go in my t-case.

Then I installed all my wheels/tires to see how far off they are for an eyeball alignment just to be able to tow the car over to my buddy's shop where the engine is. Then I realized I took my floor jack over to my parent's, so that ended my day. I'll go grab that tonight and get back to work on the car.
 
I have a handful of NAPA's around here, one's a regional distribution center. I bought one clip, but then went back another day and asked if he had 9 more, and he did. They weren't out on a shelf or on the website or anything, I just took one of my oem ones in there and asked if he had em, he went in the back and came out with them.
 
2/14/15:
Just for you guys, and because I didn't do it before, I took my perfectly timed t-belt off and decided to prime the oil pump again, on high-speed, with the drill. I've been thinking about it ever since I posted the update on 1/31 saying I didn't do it, and really had no good reason why. So *because science*, here she is on high speed:




Ambience:
Figure 30degF oil, 4qts straight 30w plus 1/2 qt of lucas, previously primed motor so oil was in all the galleys, etc.

Notes:
Prior to the video, I was messing around with the drill, spinning it slowly to get a feel for how it would act. At first nothing was happening, I thought WTF, did I hook the gauge up wrong? Polarity of the wires doesn't matter at the sender, so that wasn't it. I put the drill back on low speed as was previously done, and still nothing, even maxed out. Then I thought the worst, maybe the pick-up tube fell off ? Maybe something broke in the last 2 weeks while I didn't touch it ? So I put it back on high speed, and ramped it up for a quick jolt. Then I felt the oil catch the gears. Ah, there it was. After a nice deep breath of relief, I brought you the video above... And that's why there's already oil in the system during the video.

So I got to thinking, maybe the reason you get that rpm kick when you start the vehicle is to ramp up the oil pump to really get a good bit of suction to get that oil flowing. Why else would an engine have to start up to 2k rpm then slowly make its' way back down to idle?

So those are a couple questions to think about. So I put the timing belt and cover back on. Timing belt was perfect, I could spin the grenade pin freely, even after the rotations of the assembly and waiting 15 minutes. Torqued the tensioner pulley to 40ft-lbs, and also torqued on my new Fluidampr to 22ft-lbs, no loctite.

Results:
Oil pump pulley rpm = 450rpm Oil pressure = 22-23psi
Oil pump pulley rpm = 1500rpm Oil pressure = 33-34psi

Looks good to me, rule of thumb is 10psi at idle (when warm), and +10psi for every 1k rpm. Above is about a 1k rpm difference, and a 10-11 psi difference in oil pressure.

dRjXu5Rh.jpg


Oh yea, also ordered an upper timing cover from Japan, hopefully it's black, LOL. I'll let you know when it comes. She's pretty sexy in black.

Then I decided to fiddle with the Wilson Throttle body and the Nissan evap valve. You can look it up, I found it here somewhere I think, that for remote idle control, you can simply put a DSM isc into a nissan evap purge valve. Since I'll need spacers for the throttle cable to mate up with the throttle body, why not make the idle control part of the spacing, that way I don't have to find a place on the firewall or somewhere else? The bolt holes were off just ever so slightly, so I busted out the dremel and elongated one of the holes so that the bolt holes would fit. Here's how she'll sorta look:
iDx2p6Sh.jpg


And top view for reference:
yZ2XSr2h.jpg


As you can see, I'll need at least another inch of spacing, I think. I forget how offset the throttle cable is from the mounting bracket, but that'll easily work itself out once the motor is in the car.
 
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2/25/15:
Wellllllllllllllllllllllllll hello there. It's now been 1 year and 8 months, we'll say, that's she's been mine, and on jackstands. But ladies and gentlemen, she's now touching earth!

7UpngXkl.jpg


ESDH2aKl.jpg


Camber/caster/toe isn't horrible, should be good enough to get towed over to my buddy's shop to drop the motor in, hopefully this weekend :)
 
2/28/15:
Been working on the car nights after work now. Decided to temporarily hook up the ecu/harness via battery box so I can see what's on the ecu and get a little familiar playing with ecmlink. I purchased an entire v3/ecu/sd setup from a guy in cali. Here's my temporary hook up using a jump box:
X0H26RAl.jpg


Works like a charm and also allows me to play with the power windows and stuff. When I got the car, the driver's door run channel was all mangled near the mirror, so I removed that. Also put the window down and removed the door glass so I could install the new channel from JNZ:
2Gtxi0wl.jpg


Outside view:
c5PGKijl.jpg


Taylor battery box installed:
HBILDl2l.jpg


Pretty easy as far as installs go. I utilized the factory hole in the floor over there which had a rubber grommet in it, I just found a rather large 3/8" washer laying around that was bigger than the hole, and used that for the underside rear-most hole. So ahead of that I only had to drill one hole thru the body for the front threaded rod. (Another hole will also be drilled for the vent tube). I will take it all back out because those threaded rods are just a tad too long for this install, so those will need to be cut down a little.
Also shown is the fuel pump re-wire relay which was already in the car when I bought it.
 
Yea, the protective film is still on it, until I'm ready for a "final" install. So its polished, LOL, not white, that's the film.

Also here's that pic I was telling you about earlier. Decided to work on a little bit of engine bay mounting stuff. The fuel lab filter (stock hardline to rail setup from extremepsi) uses fittings to adapt the stock flange/flare fitting to -6an. So it elevates the position of the fuel filter to a point where you can't use the original fuel filter mounting bracket. But there's 1 bolt hole just above those 2, so I drilled out one of the holes on the fuel lab bracket to 7/16 and just used the 1 side to mount it to the firewall. Seems pretty solid:
5Qh9d45l.jpg


Also using one of the battery bracket bolt holes to mount my totally rad Mazdaspeed catch can I nabbed on ebay for $22 shipped. Next I have to figure out where I'm putting the fuel lab AFPR. Might need to pick up some metal and fab my own bracket.
 
Nice thanks for that information since were kinda doing the same thing I think im following your progress, and present and future ideas.
 
3/8/15:
Since it's been cold out, boredom got the best of me and I'd like to remove some boxes from out of my office. Decided to tackle my 6x9s. It figures that these beasts from Kicker have huge magnets, so I had to do what other people have previously done, pound down the sheet metal a little behind the speaker mount. It wasn't too bad, 5-10 minutes each side:
BAjSU0Cl.jpg


I think the main point that was touching was that crease towards the top, so i gave the general area there a few whacks with a sledgehammer, then pounded the crease area with a smaller hammer. I double checked the wiring to make sure I got the polarity correct:
bA2CnTul.jpg


Proceeded to use the crimp connectors that came with the speakers, and completed the wiring.

Note: The factory sheet metal screws that held the speakers on are those typical big fat head gold colored #10 sheet metal screws. Well those fat heads don't usually play well with aftermarket speakers, so I ran to NAPA and got a bag of #10x 3/4" sheet metal screws, because kicker only supplies #8's with the speakers.

Finished:
BiNdUe5l.jpg


These are 2014 Kicker KS693's. Still messing around with the front separates to mount them to the stock plastic thingy that mounts to the door.
 
3/9/15:
My sweet sweet prince:
onHuepQl.jpg


Off you go, to wonderland:

6hrBxLbl.jpg


I also shot some video before I packed it up, to show myself that it easily rowed thru all 5 gears plus reverse, spun freely, was not damaged in any way but was dirty, and the serial numbers. They did include a large black trash bag with the box to pack the trans in, but I doubled that with a little more serious trash bag that was a few mil thicker. I'll drop it off at FedEx tomorrow and it will start its' journey.
 
3/15/15:
Well yesterday morning we had some light rain, but I was determined to get the car over to my buddy's shop where the engine is. While pushing the car out of my garage, my back muscles decided they had enough, and out she went. Fully blasted pulled lower back muscles. Friggin' awesome. I wasn't letting that stop me, so I hooked the car up to the quad, and towed it the mile over there anyway, under incredible amounts of pain.

So I rested the remainder of the day, with some aleve and heating pads, slept on it, and today was a little better. So why not try to tackle the engine install with the help of a buddy.

Gettin ready:
FUMpfgzl.jpg


Pushed the car up a few feet, got it on the lift, and wheeled the engine under:
SMOFf3el.jpg


It's hard to stand straight without shaking because of my back, hence the photos are a little blurred.

After some finagelling back and forth with the poly motor mounts:
6Gm2Hibl.jpg


She's in! Looks like a good amount of room in the front too:
kOjljMhl.jpg


To be continued...
 
3/21/15:
Went to the local metal place and picked up an 8"x4' sheet of .040 aluminum, proceeded to make a bracket for the arc-2, omni 4-bar, and scg-1 map sensor:
LDdcBLhl.jpg


I'm working on second piece to the right of that, where my fuel lab AFPR will go, to be finished tomorrow. I need to mount these things first so I can sort out how the wire harness will be loomed together.

Not sure if I want to leave these pieces natural color or paint them black. They'll look ok with the new DSM sticker I have coming, which is bright aluminum, however black would fit the motif of the engine bay and not look as "race car" as the natural color.

3/22/15:
Got back to work on mounting stuff, so I needed hardware to mount the AFPR to its' plate, and also cut another plate for the power transistor:
jhh4e12l.jpg


I went to mount up the Nissan evap (my idle controller) to the 2 throttle cable bolts, and the idle motor interferes with the fuel pressure gauge, so I'll remote mount the gauge to the right of the power transistor with a -3an brake line adapter, which I'm shopping for now...
 
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