Adjust Your clutch. Look under your your dash where you master cylinder comes out on the inside of the car take a 10 or 12 m.m. wrench loosen the bolt thats on the shaft. Spin the shaft it moves your clutch engagement up and down. Mines in the center, it will take probaly 10 or 15 minutes to get it to where you want it. Now if your clutch petal is sticking to the floor on left hand turns you have a problem.

Probably a failing Slave Cylinder - they die in Winter - You don't suddenly just "lose" 2 inches of pedal travel - That adjustment is for Fine Tuning - Not for a gross amount of freeplay.

This happened overnight. The clutch engagement point seems to vary depending on temperature.

The clutch engages sooner when it is cold. After the car is hot the clutch doesnt engage until it is almost the whole way out.

How can I check the slave cylinder?

Just roll back the flexible "boot" that protects the seal on the Slave Cylider Piston - If there's fluid there it's leaking - Your clutch Master cylinder may be low too - that tells you the Slave is leaking. Very common repair.

Check your resevoir and see if it is low, I had to get my master and slave cylinder replaced about 1.5 months ago, I had the same problem, if it is low, check behind the master cylinder to see if there is some fluid leaking from somewhere, and add some standard brake fluid to it if it is low.

I'll check it out tonight! Thanks a lot!

Does it matter which type of brake fluid I use? Should I just use DOT3?

It probably has DOT 3 in it, but it mixes with DOT 4 okay, especially in the clutch hydraulics. No heating like in the brake calipers.

I know this is a really old thread but does anyone have a write-up/vid or link to one for Slave-cylinder replacement?

It's pretty simple to be honest. It's located on the front of the transmission. You have to remove the line connected to it with a line wrench (Example - http://www.diseno-art.com/images_2/line_wrenches.jpg), I don't remember which size though. If you try to remove it with a regular wrench you will destroy the fitting. Then you remove the two bolts holding it to the transmission.

If you rebuild it. Push really hard and really fast on the "Plunger" inside and it will shoot out. Replace those parts with your rebuild kit.

Lastly you need to bleed the system. It works similar to brakes but can be a lot harder. In my opinion reverse bleeding is the best. Which is literally taking something and pumping fluid in from the bleeder, you just have to make sure it wont push air into the line. However you can do the pump the clutch method if you want.

If you can find a classic oil can those work AMAZING for reverse bleeding.

You can also buy one of these things. Here's a video on how to use it as well.

gusu said:

If you rebuild it

Click to expand...

I think I will replace it seeing as the parts seems to be relatively inexpensive. I just want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing ahead of time to avoid, like you said, causing further damage/work. Great links! Really appreciated!