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SNAKE_15
10+ Year Contributor
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- Aug 28, 2012
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Bakersfield,
California
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Yes, an autometer sport comp gauge. How do you calibrate it? I read that to either calibrate the wideband or boost gauge because it will get confusing on achieving both. I'm using a homemade boost controller but my hallman boost controller coming tomorrow.Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? Is it calibrated properly?
I'll find out tomorrow morning, but why does my boost gauge show 15 then.That might be it then, that is a good gauge so maybe the boost controller. make sure it is not installed backwards hopefully that fixes/helps.
I can't find any concrete info on how to match them.. I have a stock fuel setup so I don't know why Im having to make drastic changes. Can you explain more on my errors in maf comp?Your ECU thinks you are running 20psi because your MAFComp is terribly adjusted. You first need to get your BoostEst to match actual boost @ 5500 RPMs or so. Once doing this then you 'tune' in your injectors so that your AFREst matches actual AFR.
Thanks for the info. I too was following your thread. I'll try another blt. You think my kelfords cams have anything to do with it? How do I see that I have a mdp malfunction?#1.. you have a lot of work to do on mafcomp table before adding or removing timing. Its not smooth at all.. It took me forever to get it close to afrest, but if you dont you will be chasing these demons for a long time.
#2.. I would do a boost leak test.. by the amount of mafcomp you had to make it looks similar to what I had to do when my fuel pressure regulator was leaking air(not giving proper 1 to 1 raise in pressure)
You also have an mdp malfuction.. this is the 2g version of detecting boost.. not sure how it logs but I would imagine if it shows a malfunction something is off.
The timing areas where you are getting knock are pretty low. I would check all of the above before continuing WOT pulls..
Like I was told.. if the wideband and afrest dont line up, your cars not in working order yet. After that lines up you can adjust Direct access fuel and timing but you have to get that mafcomp in line first.
Check out my log of my pull so you can see how close I am on wideband and afrest(mines an lc1 so add that to your displayed values).. this is still not percect enough for me but it pretty much lines up.
If you have access to a shop or a friend who works at one, use a smoke leak detector. They are by far the most accurate way to find leaks.Thanks for the info. I too was following your thread. I'll try another blt. You think my kelfords cams have anything to do with it? How do I see that I have a mdp malfunction?
I'll see. My boost controller came in but I'm having doubts on whether to use that or do a boost by gear setup using the stock boost solenoid. What y'all think.If you have access to a shop or a friend who works at one, use a smoke leak detector. They are by far the most accurate way to find leaks.
put on controller and set to around 12 until everything is kosher. . Then later boost by gear is pretty nice for tractionI'll see. My boost controller came in but I'm having doubts on whether to use that or do a boost by gear setup using the stock boost solenoid. What y'all think.
Agreed but he's AWD and not making much power yet. I say do whatever is easier because they will work equally well at this point.put on controller and set to around 12 until everything is kosher. . Then later boost by gear is pretty nice for traction
People have a tendency to put higher boost on than they need in boost by gear... my awd i felt it poinless to boost by gear. Id rather have full boost at my disposal throughout... on my fwd honda i use boost by gear so i dont shred tires in 1st and 2ndAgreed but he's AWD and not making much power yet. I say do whatever is easier because they will work equally well at this point.
I'll see. My boost controller came in but I'm having doubts on whether to use that or do a boost by gear setup using the stock boost solenoid. What y'all think.
Agreed, boost will just agitate the issue.You should install neither at the moment. More boost is not what you want when you have a knock issue. If you keep changing multiple variables, it makes for a real headache. My advice, fix the DTC and ensure the car is mechanically sound. Leave the car alone (boost wise) until you get the kncok issue under control then and only then would I add boost a few lbs at a time.
Lets try to keep this thread on topic (fixing the knock issue) and then we can discuss other mods in a new properly titled thread.
The reason I asked was because my car boost spikes to 20lbs without a boost controller. I borrowed a hallman one for a couple days then had to give it back. So I bought my own and right now I'm using a home depot boost controller. I need the hallman to prevent my car from overboosting.You should install neither at the moment. More boost is not what you want when you have a knock issue. If you keep changing multiple variables, it makes for a real headache. My advice, fix the DTC and ensure the car is mechanically sound. Leave the car alone (boost wise) until you get the kncok issue under control then and only then would I add boost a few lbs at a time.
Lets try to keep this thread on topic (fixing the knock issue) and then we can discuss other mods in a new properly titled thread.
The reason I asked was because my car boost spikes to 20lbs without a boost controller. I borrowed a hallman one for a couple days then had to give it back. So I bought my own and right now I'm using a home depot boost controller. I need the hallman to prevent my car from overboosting.
The reason I asked was because my car boost spikes to 20lbs without a boost controller.
i dont know why my boost estimate is showing 20lbs when my boost gauge says at the most 15.
I know my boost gauge works and it is a good brand too. If you have time to look, I posted a new log after making adjustments and installing my new boost controller.At least part of your boost spike issue is due to a 3" exhaust on a T25.
BoostEst will only match actual boost at peak engine VE, and only when the airflow is properly calibrated. It may be very close at other points as well, but it can only be trusted at peak VE.
With that said, don't worry about BoostEst. Use a good gauge to set/monitor the boost level, and use your wideband and AFRatioEst to dial in the airflow.