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ForsakenLash

Proven Member
156
0
Mar 15, 2013
Jacksonville, Florida
Hello all, I have a few questions surrounding mostly an idle issue and another regarding my Halo head lamps.

I just recently got my second Eclipse and when I first test drove it everything ran great! Now I am having an idle issue and often times it likes to cut right out. It always starts back up right away, but it will idle low and do this a few times until the car gets warmed up. Sometimes when im going down the highway it will jerk and cut out for a second then kick right back up like nothing happened.

I have cleaned the IAC, ran carb cleaner into the throttle body, and it has all helped, but not enough to solve the problem. I was looking for a MAF sensor to clean but I cant locate it since im used to it being on the tube that runs from the filter box into the throttle body. Any ideas where I can locate it?

Also I dont know if this is connected, but when I turn the car off the motor slowly shuts off, like components just slow down till they finally shut down. This lasts for only a few seconds and im not sure why.

Lastly it came with some Halo head lamps. The lights work great for the most part, but the brights only work when its just the running lamps on and I have to hold the switch forward to keep them on. Is this an issue where the installer wired them wrong or is this normal? I only want to fix them because I get off work at midnight and the roads I have to take to get to the highway are in the country and there are a lot of deer and other critters I would like to not hit.

Any insight and help is greatly appreciated, and sorry for the long post.
 
1. The MAF sensor will be in the same spot, as you cannot move it from that location, regardless of what style intake you have. If you still cant find it, post a pic of you engine bay and we'll show you exactly where it is. You also want to make sure you have all you vacuum lines hooked up as that can cause idle issues.

2. The Halo lights where most likely wired incorrectly. I would re-wire them to ensure they work how they should.

3. Your motor shutting down like that is normal. You have to remember the motor is rotating assembly of components, turning the engine off, wont stop everything instantly.
 
Ill have to post the pic, because I know its not on the air hose


Guess I need to find the wiring diagram for the Halos LOL

I figured everything wouldnt stop automatically, it just seems like it takes a little longer to shut down then my last one did.. I dunno, maybe its just me..

Thanks for the quick reply!!! This is the 3rd forum Ive tried posting on and the only one ive gotten an answer from!! LOL
 
well first off GofaST4life he has a 420a car not 4g. 420a's do not have a MAF the computer runs off of the map, iac and tps to calibrate what a MAF would do. so if you have idle issues it is with one of those three sensors which are all on the throttle body and manifold. we dont have idle screws so the ecu just does it on the fly but you might be able to adjust your throttle cable a little bit and see if it helps. as far as the halo lights its an easy fix. im trying to find the link but cant right now. you just have to wire your brights into the low beams and they will be on all the time with low beams. since they arnt super bright you can ride around like this without blinding other people.
 
well first off GofaST4life he has a 420a car not 4g. 420a's do not have a MAF the computer runs off of the map, iac and tps to calibrate what a MAF would do. so if you have idle issues it is with one of those three sensors which are all on the throttle body and manifold. we dont have idle screws so the ecu just does it on the fly but you might be able to adjust your throttle cable a little bit and see if it helps. as far as the halo lights its an easy fix. im trying to find the link but cant right now. you just have to wire your brights into the low beams and they will be on all the time with low beams. since they arnt super bright you can ride around like this without blinding other people.

I had read that it used a MAP but I am unsure as to what to look for... I know the location of the IAC and TPS, where in relation to those would it be?

Also I have tried adjusting the throttle cable, I either get the rough idle or if I tap it over a tiny bit it revs up to about 2k RPMs.

As to the Halos,, the low beams are actually pretty bright and the high beams are extremely bright, im guessing someone put different bulbs in because the brights can light up the 6 lane highway here LOL.
 
yeah they might of put hid's in. do you see any boxes around your head lights where the wires come to or is just clipped in normal? the map sensor is on the end of the intake manifold on the passengers side its small and circle with 3 wires going to it. do you have any check engne lights on?
 
yeah they might of put hid's in. do you see any boxes around your head lights where the wires come to or is just clipped in normal? the map sensor is on the end of the intake manifold on the passengers side its small and circle with 3 wires going to it. do you have any check engne lights on?

ill have to check the wiring again on the lights.

As for a CEL I dont have one on, but I dont know if the bulb is bad or not.. I dont see it come on when the key is in acc. so im gonna hook up an OBD II scanner to it in just a few mins.

Im getting a P1390 code so yeah my CEL bulb is out LOL
 
P1390 Timing Belt Skipped 1 Tooth Or More, So i wouldnt drive it untill you get this fixed you dont want to cause more issues for yourself

I dont really have a choice... its the only car I have right now. Would this give me the same symptoms Ive been having? I read somewhere that its possible a bad MAP, wide open throttle, or something can cause a fake P1390
 
The only other thing i can think of that may give you that code is a failing crank or cam position sensor, but honestly if the timing is bad and you keep driving it you can bend your valves and a s**t ton of other problem, if you have to drive it just go to your nearest shop and get it checked out if you dont have the stuff to do it yourself.
 
ok, I was looking at the motor when I took out the MAP sensor to clean and I noticed the plastic cover on the timing belt is cracked open. Now the belt looks like its a half inch too far over and I can see the teeth sticking out of the end opposite of the motor.. could this be a simple adjustment that could fix the problem?
 
its not really simple no you would have to loosen the timing belt then adjust it again but its not good if its riding one side or the other of the cam gear. it should be fairly centered. i havent heard to much about a fake p1390 but it could be true. how loose is your timing belt? it should be pretty tight. if you have alot of play there is an issue. if you did skip one tooth the motor would defintely act up and not want to idle. how many miles are on your car and do you know if it has ever had the timing belt or componets changed?
 
its not really simple no you would have to loosen the timing belt then adjust it again but its not good if its riding one side or the other of the cam gear. it should be fairly centered. i havent heard to much about a fake p1390 but it could be true. how loose is your timing belt? it should be pretty tight. if you have alot of play there is an issue. if you did skip one tooth the motor would defintely act up and not want to idle. how many miles are on your car and do you know if it has ever had the timing belt or componets changed?

The belt is pretty tight, it looks almost brand new so im guessing the previous owner had the belt re-done recently.

The car just hit 170k miles even today and is sitting at 170,007 right now. I can get a timing gun and look at it, just have to remember how to do it
 
you can do it without a timing light by using a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn. take your cam gear inspection cover off and spin the crank till the cam marks line up. when they line up spin it 6 full rotaions and if they line up again then its on time.
 
you can do it without a timing light by using a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn. take your cam gear inspection cover off and spin the crank till the cam marks line up. when they line up spin it 6 full rotaions and if they line up again then its on time.

ok, and if they dont how do I adjust it again?
 
Im gonna have the timing looked at some time this week, my step-father has all the tools so...

As to the idle problem I am still unsure if its connected to the timing, and I say that because if I unhook my TPS and drive then its starts to idle much better and sometimes it idles a little high. Is there any way to pull out the TPS and clean it? Or is that one of those components thats simply a replace part deal?
 
I am having the same problem first I had p0172 system running to rich in( bank 1 ) bought a o2 sensor upstream and unhoked air intake temp ,map sensor, tps and iacv and plugged them all back in securely started the car and 7 codes came on bviously because of what I just unplugged so I shut her down. erased all the codes . started her up again after a few minutes of driving maybe 10 the code came back on p1390 !!!!! its like the red ring of death ! now the car is low idle almost gives out then pops itself back on and coming to a stop pushing on the brake make it die and stutter back on I have to keep giving it gas what the hell !! I just changed out the iacv thinking that was the problem which it did at first but then ran like shit.my old iacv caused my car to run high revs but now im facing low idle almost dieing ands giving out and it jerks while driving im about to give on my babay dsm WTF fml !!!" please help!!!
 
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